Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

They have that stuff at a local hardware store a few miles from my house. They sell it by the foot so I can only get a few feet of the big stuff, and a lot of the smaller diameter loom. They also have all kinds of wire, fasteners, grade 8 bolts, weld nuts, rod ends, electrical connectors, and even some weld on tabs. Great store. They even had self tapping into steel through wood screws that I needed when I was patching sections of the horse trailer floor.

 

[BKennedy]

Made this up last night on Microsoft Visio. Have four fuse spots left over.
2 in + Constant
1 single hookup
1 in + in Start or Run

The best part is when I tested all the circuits, they all worked!!
Frigin ABS dash light came on, even though I don't have the relays or fuse plugged in. It came on when I decided to use the vehicle power in start or run heavy gauge wire that used to go to the ABS controller to run part of the new fuse panel. I am going to pull the dash light because its a real good use of that heavy wire.

Tomorrow I will finish up under the dash, hook up the two front locker wires and start on the battery box.

 

[FR-425]

Very nice,

It will be a snap for me to work on, after you sell that truck to me!

 

[BKennedy]

Very nice,

It will be a snap for me to work on, after you sell that truck to me!

Sorry, NFS
Nearly got the secondary battery box finished. I wanted to offset it right behind the rear axle towards the passenger side, but the exhaust is there. I can get it near the frame up where the spare used to sit on the driver side, but there is already a lot of weight on that side (primary battery, gas tank, me). I guess a battery won't make much difference.
If I can't go with weight distribution, I will put it in the spot most protected. I had the ARB compressor in nearly the same spot for ten years and never scraped that off on a rock. Should be OK.

 

[FR-425]

Just drool'n.

If I were ever to go SAS, I would copy your set-up for sure.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks. Its been a long road to get it this far. I looked at a lot of SAS rigs before deciding.

Today, I finished up the secondary battery box and got all the wiring under the dash all pretty. Interior is all buttoned up.
I went from this;

To this;

Picture this turned over and bolted to the bottom of the body;

The sideways battery box is made entirely up from scrap pieces I had, plus the angle from the bed frame. Total cost = a little welding rod. Yesterday, I could not figure out how to get the little bit of wiggle out of the battery. I could not use nuts and bolts on the top of the box since it would be up against the body. This morning while I was walking the dog, it dawned on me that I could use a set-screw type application on the top. I drilled a hole, then welded a small square nut on the outside of the top piece. Worked like a charm, no wiggle. I now have decided I am going to bolt it up to the passenger side of the spare tire well because I want to avoid any more weight on the driver side. It will be approximately 3" away from, and slightly above, the exhaust. Its towards the end of the pipe, so there will not be very much heat.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the battery box bolted in, and it should be fine. Noticed the cargo area floor has a little wiggle to it between the corrugated area and the support. The floor is also slightly buckled, probably due to many years of flexing and my flop. It shouldn't effect the battery box, but don't want the battery in a paint shaker (its not that bad, but this is the best description). I am welding in a piece of scrap plate as a stiffener between the corrugated area and the support.

 

[Burns]

Incredible Sir!

Now I know how to build my own battery support box.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, Burns.
I built it around the battery. Started with the traditional bed frame angle. Made a bottom frame for the battery, then went from there. It has to fit snug so there is no wiggle to wear out the battery. I know that 1/4" flat bar for the mounting plates was serious overkill, but I did not have anything thinner around the house. I think it would have been easier with the fitment size 34 instead of my 35 series. The 35 has side post holes which I had to protect, and for a 34 series you can just call your favorite off road supplier and purchase what you need.

 

[BKennedy]

Rewired some of the auxiliary fuse panel. The 12 volt on in run and start wire I was using from the old ABS harness has a voltage fluctuation of up to 6 volts. Wired in another relay off a different ABS harness wire that did not have any fluctuation, but was a smaller gauge wire. Used the + constant power from the secondary battery so nearly everything that has a large draw on the battery is off the secondary battery. Used an in-line fuse to keep the power to the relay separate from the fuse panel. So now, my Explorer has one in-line fuse instead of over a dozen.

 

[BKennedy]

Back to relay type battery isolators.
In reading the very brief wiring instructions, I have determined (unlike a diode type isolator) the main battery / alternator wiring is not changed. A wire is run from the main battery to the relay isolator. A wire is run to the secondary battery from the other terminal of the relay. A wire is run to a on in START / RUN wire to close the relay.
The batteries are isolated when the ignition key is OFF. As soon as the key is turned to START / RUN, the relay is closed and the batteries are on the same circuit. There is nothing regulating current flow between the batteries except for the alternator charge current being a higher voltage than the battery current preventing one battery from draining the other.
If this is the case, why would I need a jumper or switch to turn them both on for winching or jumping if all I have to do is turn the ignition to START / RUN?
And, if all the above is correct, are not both batteries working whenever I start the engine, negating the need for a separate jumper switch?

I also have an 80 amp resettable breaker from the old dual battery setup. Should I run the wire to the secondary battery through that as I had before?

 

[BKennedy]

Late reply, sorry.

Are you talking about the "stinger" set up?

Stinger-ish. I actually bought a 200 amp dual battery relay from XScorpion.

Got 25' of 2 gauge welding wire coming via UPS. Funny how I live in a county with nearly 3 million people and welding wire is still cheaper on line. One-third the price of the five places I went to that had the stuff.

Clocked the transfer case today. Turns out, I don't have to redo the cross member if I clock it at the first set of holes down from where it was. I clearanced the double-cardigan joint to get rid of the slight binding. Transfer case will still be above the frame rail. Just need to strengthen or replace the cross member to handle a flat skid plate and completely redo the shift linkage.

 

[BKennedy]

The relay I have only closes when the key is ON, so both batteries are isolated when the key is off. The charging current from the alternator keeps the batteries from drawing off each other when the engine is running. That is what I wanted, a no frills way to keep the batteries from drawing off each other.

 

[BKennedy]

...I have the Stinger 200 amp relay/solenoid (in one) set up with dual batteries and running 160 amp alt (shorter lifespan on alt due to more rpm's)..

..The Stinger is only on after start up of vehicle which then allows the charging of the second battery. Key off and it disconnects the second battery..

..A quick swap of a wire (if ever it was needed) would allow you to use the other battery to start.

,,I have all stock items on the main battery and offroad/rock lights...Fridge and all other acc. separated on the second battery and I usually have multiple items charging as well as running the fridge for a week or more at a time..

I know some who have added a simple switch for a or b battery but don't recall anyone ever really using one so I didn't put one in..

I like simple but effective..:biggthump

Like this... Instead of using a wired in jumper switch, I have a large gauge jumper wire that I have been using for testing purposes. I threw that in the center console if I never need it on the trail. Its just long enough to go from the junction block of the secondary battery to the main battery. Should work Bueno.

 

[Tbars4]

Like this... Instead of using a wired in jumper switch, I have a large gauge jumper wire that I have been using for testing purposes. I threw that in the center console if I never need it on the trail. Its just long enough to go from the junction block of the secondary battery to the main battery. Should work Bueno.

....So..:scratch:...you got a fridge?..:

 

[BKennedy]

....So..:scratch:...you got a fridge?..:

Not in the Explorer, but I did buy a new bottle of scotch for the RV!!

Am thinking about getting a fridge for the Explorer, but I don't go remote camping enough to justify the cost.

 

[Tbars4]

..Lmao...again I'm sorry but, it was your buddy's fault..

We got to do this again..:biggthump

 

[BKennedy]

I thought you would get that.
It was worth every drop. That is why I have the bottle in the RV, to drink it!

 

[Tbars4]

..You know...My fridge comes in handy on offroad trips as it keeps the Bacardi chilled..

..But if you need ice, you know who to ask for it too...:biggthump

 

[Tbars4]

Naaa....He just knows I'm simple minded..