supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[vroomzoomboom]

intake hole size?

 

[4pointslow]

space

The space between the last hole at the back, and the rear plate.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

The space between the last hole at the back, and the rear plate.

3/4 of a inch.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

well today i got the mount welded up. he did a pretty nice job of it if you ask me. with curiosity killing me (and against my backs better judgement) i pulled the m90 off, and wanted to see how everything would fit....and if the hood would close.
i do have a few issues, nothing that cant be sorted out however.

first one is its rubbing the wires. a loop will fix that im sure



second, my egr pipe is off, so i will have to cut it, and reweld it



im using dono's old manifold and egr tube for mock up. when we pulled everything out of his truck, the pipe was rusted into the valve, so i made as clean as a cut as i could. guess it wasnt good enough. so while i the m90 off, i am going to put it, and the intake tube onto the mock up motor, and make something to mimic its position.

i put both set ups side by side for a comparison,









i was surprised how close i got them height wise.

now for the money shots







compared to





looks right on. i guess i will find out when i bolt it on for the final time.



its a little tight at the back, but it will work!



oh john, i made this just for you


that made my day when i was able to do that!!!









the only thing i had to do (so far, that and i know i will have to extend one of the coil pack plugs, and goof around with the vacuum lines) was bend my trans dip stick tube. so i will rework the intake tube and hope i nail it so i can get this thing on, and running!

 

[CDW6212R]

Good work Tim, it's almost there. Those remind me of pictures I got of another EE blower on Explorer that a friend Peter sent me, for measurements.

You have virtually the same hood clearance with that as the EE kit. Do you have an idea of how much gap you have with the EE M90, to the hood? The larger pulley gets it closer to the hood.

 

[4pointslow]

M112

You are my new hero!
Freaking awesome.
How much more room do you have overtop, could the lower intake be made taller?
Later you can get that pulley off and put a Metco hub on it. Their pulley bolts are good and strong unlike some others, and their pulleys go down to 2.7 inch. more clearance. more boost. but more heat.
We need to get this intercooler figured out to utilize the M112 at it's best.
You would have to make some alterations to the lower intake, intercooler cores only come in certain sizes so you have to make the lower intake to fit the cooler, to an extent. Here is a picture of a rough design I have been working on for you. Not done yet, I have a few more questions I think first.
Got to run right now. I will be back....
Edit - added some dimensions.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

its not really fair to say how much clearance i have with either setup. both have small pulleys on them (the m90 has what i would call a sewing thimble on it (2 inch) and the m112 has a 2.7 or 2.8 on it).
i was already thinking one of the quick change hub setups. it would make life easier.
also, some real good news. earlier i was talking to my buddy that painted evil for me. he knows a guy (i have even met him, and been to his house a few times) that works at a high end/fab shop a hour away, but he lives 10 mins from me. i asked gord if that guy (paul is his name) if he knew how to weld alum as well, and if he knew anything about innercoolers. gord told me to head over to pauls, and talk to him because he was working on his car (which happens to be a 70 promod firebird he expects to be in the 7-8 second range). i brought the mount with me so he could look at it. he was impressed and thought it was pretty cool (the guy also likes rangers, and really liked 007 which is my 07 level 2 lifted with 33's on it). i talked to him for a hour or so, but he had to go with a friend to pick a car up. he wants me to come back in a few hours. he is going to figure out how to get a innercooler inside there for me.
SWEET! lol

 

[vroomzoomboom]

oh, john, i was looking at the mount, and thinking what i might do is get another piece of alum and lay it on top between the mount and blower. cheating, but it would work.

 

[4pointslow]

plate

That's a good idea.
Just might need gaskets above and below it?
I was thinking another 1/4 inch would not be enough anyway since there would be no space above or below the cooler. Need even more space, or have to go with 1.25 tall cooler instead of 2.25 but that would be less cooling. Maybe you could find someone that has 2 inch cores or something?
Also if you get a quick change hub, don't get one with dinky little screws because they strip out and you cant get the screws out after that. That's why I recommend Metco.
Also for an intercooler pump I recommend a Meziere pump.
https://www.meziere.com/ps-892-0-WP136S.aspx

Just realized that there are bolts in that lower intake too, they take up more room. crap.

 

[CDW6212R]

...
I was thinking another 1/4 inch would not be enough anyway since there would be no space above or below the cooler. Need even more space, or have to go with 1.25 tall cooler instead of 2.25 but that would be less cooling...

I had another wild thought, can you make this happen;

If you can do two more things, you can gain more space to raise the blower. Can that blower have the snout removed and place a pulley right next to the large housing front(no snout(flat cover like a Autorotor blower))?

Can you find a way to mount a short drive shaft where the current EE pulley is, or anywhere near that is convenient? If it could be possible to drive one shaft with another by a very short 8-rib belt on two pulleys close by, then you could locate the blower higher. That's because the hood angles up from the main drive belt location, to the blower housing.

I can imagine gaining 1-2" in height if that could be done(no snout length to the pulley, and drive the pulley with a different pulley(mounted lower)).

I think the rub to that would be having the short belt not slip on either of the pulleys. Driving the blower shaft from an adjacent parallel shaft within 6" of it would be tough. The belt length would be unavailable likely(say 15-20"). Just a wild brain fart.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

went back to pauls with the mount, and blower. he really likes this thing. he's going to take it to work with him, and see what he can do for a core. he will also make the tanks for me, and get back to me how much he wants. he also has a mustang nut he works with, and will show it to him as well.
i was thinking about getting a bosch water pump from a shelby (which really ticks me off, because i had on in my hands when i was at all ford nationals, and didnt buy it).
as for this guys place, this is what he is working on in his garage. (sorry, crappy cell phone pic)



i eyed this up, but i know the hood wont close......but would it really matter????

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I had another wild thought, can you make this happen;

If you can do two more things, you can gain more space to raise the blower. Can that blower have the snout removed and place a pulley right next to the large housing front(no snout(flat cover like a Autorotor blower))?

Can you find a way to mount a short drive shaft where the current EE pulley is, or anywhere near that is convenient? If it could be possible to drive one shaft with another by a very short 8-rib belt on two pulleys close by, then you could locate the blower higher. That's because the hood angles up from the main drive belt location, to the blower housing.

I can imagine gaining 1-2" in height if that could be done(no snout length to the pulley, and drive the pulley with a different pulley(mounted lower)).

I think the rub to that would be having the short belt not slip on either of the pulleys. Driving the blower shaft from an adjacent parallel shaft within 6" of it would be tough. The belt length would be unavailable likely(say 15-20"). Just a wild brain fart.

the problem isnt how high the pulley is, the problem is how high the blower body is

 

[Dono]

Sounds like these guys are great guys to know.
Nothing like having some guys that are super good at fabrication taking interest in you and your project. Perfect.

 

[4pointslow]

intercooler pump

I have used the bosch intercooler pump and I would not recommend it.
The lightning guys have been replacing theirs with the Mezieres and that is how I found out about these pumps. 20 gal per hour. Whats that bosch do? maybe 8 if you are lucky to get a good one and you can get it primed.
I had a brand new Ford Racing (rebadged Bosch) and it did not flow very well.

 

[4pointslow]

IAT and Boost sensor

Also you are going to need a spot to put the IAT and Boost sensor (or hose).

 

[vroomzoomboom]

don, the first thing that went threw my mind was "crap, if i wouldnt have forgotten about this guy (and i did), i might have been able to save don a crap load of money, and time!"
no lie either!
john, good to know, and thanks! i thought those were good. learn something everyday! i also see you put measurements in your core that you designed. i am going to show them that, and see what they think.
its funny you mention the IAT sensor. i bought on when i was down there, but havent put it in yet. when i was driving home i started thinking, crap! where am i going to put that if the mount is full of innercooler!!! i think what i might do is drill a hole, put a bung in for the sensor. i also have to figure out where i am going to put the port for the boost gauge as well. i was going to put all of that in the front, but thats where the lines will come out. i will figure out something. i hope..

 

[Dono]

Yes, its going to be tight on the iat sensor.
Getting that under the intercooler will be tough.
No question, you will figure this out.

I've been looking around for an inexpensive hobbs switch that will turn on (or off) at 1lb boost so I can add a relay for my intercooler pump. If I find a good deal, I'll buy two. You will be looking for a place for this sensor right after your M112 also, as 4pointslow mentioned.

 

[4pointslow]

sizes

I did not put the sizes in for the hose nipples, slight problem there.
The outside diameter of the tubes I tried was 1/2 inch. That leaves less for inside diameter where the coolant flows.
The length I tried was 1 inch, probably cant go smaller and still expect to get a good amount of hose on them.
Whoever builds this thing may be able to stagger the tanks on the nipple side, like mine was made, to allow a bigger diameter nipple.
To have the coolant pass through the front plate is the next challenge to overcome. On my truck there are fittings threaded in through the plate from the outside (mine go in through the rear of the rear plate with the nipple on the outside of the manifold). The fittings are then tapped on the inside diameter and smaller fittings are ran into the larger fittings through the inside of the manifold area side. (too many sides in that statement) lol.
With the sizes in the picture we would only have 1 inch left on the inside for the fittings to protrude into the manifold and that would but them right up against the cooler nipples.
My suggestion would be to extend the box part of the lower intake manifold to the end of the top plate(looks like there is plenty of room?) and use 1/2 inch plate for that front piece as well so it has more area for the threaded nipples to hold on to.
If there is room I would use 1/2 inch plate on the back as well and thread the IAT and boost port there, if they would fit back there. Or weld a bung for the IAT like you stated. The boost port probably doesn't need a thicker plate to thread into.
I would use blocks below the end tanks to support the intercooler and prevent air from going around it. But the rear block would not allow the IAT or boost port.
Maybe you could go into the side of the lower manifold near the injectors?
You would have .75 inch below the intercooler.

 

[4pointslow]

Fuel

I just edited that last post way too many times. lol.
Have you found a fuel rail set up yet?

 

[Dono]

ATP BCS-003 Hobbs Switch. This seems to be the most common one used.
1/8 NPT thread. On the outside of the intake, you will need 1.5"

I'll keep watching for a good price.

The more I read, the more I am seeing the bosch pump has a high failure rate, and that seems to be why the GT500 pump 'on' time in minimal. As I get to this point in my build, I'll be looking to turn the pump on at about 2 psi, and find a delay timer to keep it running for about a minute after leaving boost. This shouldn't be very difficult to do (famous last words).