SOCH V6 Timing Chain-Where Can I find Cliff Notes Version?

[travlincub321]

I am so damn lost..

Can some one point me where there is a cliff notes version with the timing chain rattle?

I have a 2000 SOCH v6 with 133K and the rattle is there upon start up and sometimes comes and goes.. I am going to start by replacing both tensioners... Simple and easy

I believe my noise to be coming from the front of the engine.. I crawled all over it and using a screwdriver for noise, thats where it seems to start

I know the front cassette I think its called is easier to deal with.. I've read that some people don't mess with the back chain as it doesn't usualy have issues. Ok fine...

I just need a simplified version of what the noise is, part numbers and such. So i can order parts and discuss with my mechanic. So im not a total idiot.

also, the noise isn't bad, or loud.. Just fades into the marbaling sound of sorts (and no mine is a SOCH V6)... IS this something I have to rush to do or can I wait it out till it just sounds damn awful? Esp if I replace the tensioners, de carbon the engine and tune it up?

Thanks

 

[swshawaii]

Timing chain rattle resolution process - SOHC V6
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278100

SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287416

2000StreetRod's Helpful thread list
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2349038

 

[travlincub321]

Thanks for that!

I've gone over a bit of that in my google search's but that helps more

How long can I go with the noise?

 

[2000StreetRod]

depends of source

If the primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain tensioner is broken and the pieces don't jam anything you could probably drive it indefinitely and not have any significant problems. I doubt the primary chain is long enough to actually slip.

If you have 4WD with a balance shaft chain tensioner the above probably applies although there is more potential slack in the balance shaft chain than the primary chain.

If the left (front) or right (rear) cassette guide is broken then the chain can slip enough that the pistons will strike the valves.

Some members have driven 50K miles after hearing and ignoring the warning sounds. Other members got no warning at all - chain slipped as soon as the guide broke.

 

[travlincub321]

I am gonna replace my chain tensioners asap... (the spring loaded things).... The plastic bits i dont wanna do yet, until I have money saved back up.. This explorer was a quick decision on my part and im glad i did it, but i have to get the Taurus sho up and recover from the disaster that I traded for the explorer

 

[bluestream1]

I am gonna replace my chain tensioners asap... (the spring loaded things).... The plastic bits i dont wanna do yet, until I have money saved back up.. This explorer was a quick decision on my part and im glad i did it, but i have to get the Taurus sho up and recover from the disaster that I traded for the explorer

Pull the small steel oil pan off and see if you have debris down there. Very easy job

 

[travlincub321]

Pull the small steel oil pan off and see if you have debris down there. Very easy job

Actually not a bad idea.. I will in the next few days

 

[rb142]

Read all of 2000StreetRod's threads on the subject. That's as close to a definitive guide as it gets.

It's interesting that you mention reading that the front components are the ones that fail more often. I have seen this mentioned before too. I don't know where this comes from (maybe wishful thinking?). In my experience, and from all the accounts I have read about, the rear chain components are the ones that are much more likely to fail, and when the rear guide fails it seems to more likely result in a skipped chain than when it happens on the front.

If you really want to replace the tensioners (a stall tactic for doing the guide replacement), go ahead, but I say it's a waste of time and the parts cost. (I did the same thing.) I don't think I have ever heard of that producing any significant improvement for any real period of time.

Replacing that tensioner actually cost me an engine. My rear guide was apparently already cracked. Removing the tensioner allowed the broken guide pieces to fall out (note the tension when putting the new tensioner back in). Upon startup those chucks got ground up somewhere and the chain jumped right away, smashing the valves.

Checking the pan for chunks is probably a good idea. You should do it after the change. You might want to roll the engine over by hand a few times too, just to make sure that everything is still in place and moving smoothly.

You may get another 200K miles out of it. There's just no way to know. You are coming up on that point where you have to make the hard decision. Either think about unloading this vehicle and moving on before it turns into a big problem, or commit to fixing this one and start saving up your pennies to eventually pull the engine and replace all the timing parts. Just don't wait too long.

Hope yours turns out to be one of the easy ones.

 

[travlincub321]

Kepping it

I plan to keep mine. Its a clean rig and these vintage explorers are gonna slowly start drying up in this shape.. I JUST bought it and I knew it had the rattle

If i have to put a used engine in fine... Mine was used as a tow behind a motor home vehicle (has a neutral tow switch) and its just too clean to have been a daily driver.. None of us are sure if the ODO adds miles when its tow'd but I think so..

The rattle in mine is only at start up and when its cold. Otherwise nope.. Changing the oil helped to lessen the noise..

My only issue is the one place I might trust to take it (Ford Dealer) is to damn far away. The local stealerships suck.

I use the Kia dealer for some repairs and there fine (they have a good ford mechanic on staff), but IDK they wanna tackle this.. He offered to do the heads and valve job on a duratech sable... I'll have to ask

The 3rd person i'd use is good, but IDK, sometimes with newer stuff he just doesn't hit it right on the mark.. Theres always something off.. He couldn't get my Saturn Vue back on the road either and I suspect he blew the motor in it, but im not sure.. It was a tempermental piece of crap and well.. Yeah...

The needing of special tools is another bugger

If any one knows of a good SOCH mechanich that works for a decent rate in the Portland/Seattle or San Diego area's lemme know!

 

[Flash]

The rattle in mine is only at start up and when its cold. Otherwise nope.. Changing the oil helped to lessen the noise..

You might be one of the lucky ones who can get away with changing the tensioners.
The spring in the tensioner is supposed to supply tension for the chains until oil pressure builds up and takes over but the springs get weak and the chains thrash around until the oil pressure builds up and the wreck the chain guides.

Once the chain guides are wrecked there's no other solution but to replace them.

I thought that the improved steel backed chain guides started in 2000 but someone on here said that wasn't the case.
That same person said that you can't get new tensioners that are any improvement over the old ones but the ones I got off ebay are working fine.

Replacing the tensioners is a little trick but pretty easy, you just need a 27mm socket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4N5E_RfYpE and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LUdwhq-M3M

Note: This is only if your guides are still in good condition and it seems like they are.

 

[travlincub321]

Mine rig does.. i've got a video im posting of my rig to you tube and te rattle is very intermittent.. its a 10/99 build date, so its a late 99 xplorer.

Im gonna cross my fingers and go for the tensioners first..

I have that gut feeling this will buy me time.. That and the fact I will do my 2500 mile oil changes (3 months or 2500 miles (may 3K if im all highway or 85% highway)

 

[rb142]

The improved chain guides started mid year 2002.

In this case, you might as well try the tensioners, since you have nothing to lose but the cost of the tensioners. Eventually the springs will weaken. Check the old ones when you remove them and see how they compare to the new tensioners. (Note that if the old ones are still full of oil they will feel much stiffer than just the spring. Squeeze the oil out first.) The spring only matters for a few seconds until the oil pressure pumps up the tensioner.

Keep an eye out for the tiny metal seal washer which will probably stick to the old one. They don't come with the new ones, so you will want to transfer the old one or order another.

If it's just the noise at cold start, then you have time. When the noise gets loud and stays there, you need to deal with the guides quickly.

 

[travlincub321]

Thats my thought and its not even there oin every start. Im praying for 200K, This rig is gonna be around a while.. Im in it deep now and thats ok.. Just gota hit 200K with the chains

No i think it will help for now