Brian1 91 XLT 4x4

[Brian1]

LED Interior Conversion

My last trip out I noticed the left side of my instrument cluster was dark so that prompted a full interior LED light swap. I ordered new LED bulbs from Ebay, 20 T10 5-SMD LED Wedge Bulbs and 1 44mm 12 SMD Loop Festoon for the cargo light.

I took the dash apart and pulled out the cluster enough to get my hands in there to change out the bulbs. I took the cover out and cleaned all the dust out which made a huge difference by itself! (see the half cleaned picture below) I replaced all the cluster lights except the ABS (would remain slightly illuminated even when light goes off) and the 2 turn signal bulbs. I got it all back together then moved on to the other lights.

I put 3 LED bulbs in my dome and map lights and then the loop LED in the back cargo light. I also took the bulbs out of the door courtesy lights and replaced them.

The only bulbs that are not LEDs inside are now the turn signals, ABS, glove box and ash tray.

The new look of the cluster driving at night is great and the white light from the doors and overhead lights looks good too.

During this process I also had to remove my e-brake light switch and sand the contacts down to get it to work again. Easy fix!

 

[gmanpaint]

I thought about the LED conversion once. But since the front dome light never worked with the door open, and the rear cargo light wont shut off (I pulled the bulb), I said forget it.

I heard good things about them little vision X light cannons.

 

[Tbars4]

..My drivers door light still don't work since Brian broke it at KOH a few years ago..:

 

[gmanpaint]

Are you running a front lunchbox? I think I remember you telling me that's whats in there. You don't say what type is in it, on the specs list.

If so... Did it make any changes to the handling/MPG in 2wd?

When on the Hwy, I realize the manual hubs are unlocked, and you have the M1354, but in 2wd, doesn't the front still get some static power to the front dif? Do you notice any drag on the engine or any change in MPG with the lunchbox?

Reason I am asking, is I have a front lunchbox I can install. I have manual hubs, but run the E1354 T-case. This is a DD work rig for the most part, but does see some trails from time to time. If installing the front lunchbox is going to make it a PITA to use, then I won't install it.

Thanks for any advice or info in advance!

 

[Brian1]

Are you running a front lunchbox? I think I remember you telling me that's whats in there. You don't say what type is in it, on the specs list.

If so... Did it make any changes to the handling/MPG in 2wd?

Yes I do. It is a Genuine Gear Quic-Lok (or however they spell it)

No noticeable changes in 2wd. No mileage changes either that I recall, it has been in there a good 12+ years and I also used the electric t-case when I first put it in as well. I'm getting 19mpg on the highway with it so I really doubt it does anything to the MPGs when not running in 4x4.

I say go for it.

 

[gmanpaint]

I say go for it.

Perfect. Thanks!

 

[Tbars4]

Happy Birthday..We got some wheeling to do..

 

[Brian1]

Happy Birthday..We got some wheeling to do..

Thanks! And yes we do!

 

[BKennedy]

Happy Birthday!

 

[derrelw]

Happy Birthday Brian!

 

[Brian1]

Thanks Brian and Derrel!

 

[Brian1]

Been busy lately prepping for an upcoming trip. Stuff I've done recently:

engine oil and filter change
new fuel filter
new transmission oil
new t-case oil
inspect rear diff and change oil with a LubeLocker gasket
Adjusted rear hatch catch as it was not closing tightly
Replaced 2nd row passenger side door weatherstrip
Installed nut-certs and bolted rear cubby to interior panel as a few of the plastic clips had broken and it was coming out
Inspect rear e-brake shoes and pads
Install new EBC Sport Rotors in rear (slotted and dimpled)

Still to do:
weld hole in exhaust/muffler (never buying Dynomax again)
Pull front hubs/rotors and inspect wheel bearings (been 'wheelin in a lot of water recently!)
I might replace the radiator, it has a tiny leak
replace spark plugs

 

[Tbars4]

......That's it...I'm getting my tools out snd adding more stuff to my trucks...:

...Curious on your initial observations on the new rear disc...

 

[Brian1]

Some VisionX LED light testing I did for Petersen's 4Wheel & Off-Road magazine is now online - http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/electrical/1506-vision-x-light-cannon-led-install-the-factor/

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

I've been looking into the rear disc issue on our first gens...been looking at 03+ panther platform vehicles (town car, crown vic, grand marquis) as they use the 8.8 as well, except they have double the thickness on the rotors and are vented instead of solid...it would require changing the backing plate and rotors of course, but then you could use junkyard calipers and pads for a crown vic and get possible better stopping power from the rear...in the very least, it would extend the life of pads back there and run cooler...just a thought...

 

[Brian1]

Interesting! That is the downfall of the solid rotors so it is good to know there is a possible junkyard upgrade to vented discs. I didn't really have brake problems before but I had a good opportunity to try these out so I did. I don't have any impressions just yet as I don't have any miles on them.

 

[Brian1]

Changed my plugs today, ran into a surprise.

Early last month I was driving on the interstate and heard a sudden rod knock or lifter rattle like noise. I just cruised to the next exit and pulled over to check things out to see what the noise was. Everything seemed normal so I kept driving on the interstate for a weekend trip. Now about 700 miles later I pull the back plug out on the passenger side and found a surprise. The porcelain had broken inside the plug and dropped into the cylinder! That's what the noise must have been. I think it pulverized it and went out the exhaust. I did a compression check and it was the same as the others so that is good. I turned the engine over to blow out anything else that might still be floating around and listened and it sounded ok.

Runs much smoother now! It really wasn't down power and only had an occasional miss. With no insulator the spark was probably arcing way up into the plug.

Plug was a Motorcraft AWSF42C, the stock replacement and about 2yrs old with roughly 6k miles on it.

 

[BKennedy]

I have never seen that happen before. It would have had to be fragmented when it came out the bottom of the plug, so it must have blown out the exhaust port. Note to self, change the plugs soon.

 

[Brian1]

Recently got back from a 1500 mile, 11-day overland trip in my Explorer hitting up Flagstaff, Comb Ridge and then Moab. Today I finished up my post trip fix-its that I have been working on the past few days.

I installed a new (used) driver side spindle since my old one was too worn and the bearings fit too loosely on it. I also replaced the caliper and rotor on the driver side. The rotor had thermal cracks and the caliper had a torn boot and the plastic piston was very worn. I put in new Timken wheel bearings as well and pounded out the made in china races from the replacement rotor. I got my dash apart and reinstalled one of my led cluster bulbs that wiggled loose on the trip. I repaired the hole in my exhaust pipe between the 2 converters that ripped out where the hanger was welded. I sleeved the outside of the entire pipe and welded it up then re-welded the hanger back on in place. I also installed a used weatherstrip for my rear window to replace my torn one.

I now carry a set of spare spindle studs and wheel studs with lugnuts.

 

[Brian1]

My Big Bend TX story is now online at Fourwheeler.com with several photos of my Explorer

http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1507-finding-adventure-along-the-rio-grande/

Also my VisionX LED Cannon test/review is online as well

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/electrical/1506-vision-x-light-cannon-led-install-the-factor/