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LED Bed Lighting

CanAdrenalin

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February 10, 2014
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City, State
Toronto
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Sport Trac Adrenalin
I Will definitely be doing this in the spring, but I'm wondering if anyone has done it yet.

I plan to connect to the 12V power point that is located in the bed, with a switch, instead of connecting to the parking lights, simply for the ease of connection.
 



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I did a 24/7 hot switch in my '10 F350 so that I could use them to work on projects without killing my batteries and that will be really easy by tapping into the 12V plug between the bed walls in yours. I got my strips from superbrightleds.com. For my 8' bed I needed 1 switched strip (1 meter long) and 3 regular ones that I tied together, but 2 will be plenty for the ST. I also did a 2nd switched strip in my truck box. This is one of the most useful mods I've done.

Oh make sure to put an inline fuse in so that you don't mess up the lights or anything. I popped my inline fuse because I thought I'd be efficient and cut both my hot and ground wires at the same time...

Finished product (It's pitch black outside):

2ECAA16E-6314-47B9-9D9B-9B44B6FC45B9_zpsrvghakda.jpg


I tucked them under the bed rail so they're out of sight of mischief and they won't shine right in my face. My buddy has his directly on the bed rail in his Silverado and its not too bad though (since the STs don't have a true U shaped bed rail).

Under-On_zps6e76ff95.jpg


I tucked the switch up under the rail as well but where I can still get to it easily outside the bed.

SwitchMount_zps000d139c.jpg
 


















01STrunner - If I were to go with the setup from superbrightleds.com, how much of each product would I need?
 






Thanks! The Super Duty is the truck I take the time and try to do everything right and keep it neat and stock-looking.

I'm always impressed with super bright LEDs with everything I've used from them. If you were to buy from them, I would say you would need (1) switched strip from the 1st link I posted. And then (1) plain wired strip from the 2nd link I posted above. Both will be 1 meter (~39") long so they'll be plenty to light up the 50" ST bed.

The ebay lights look ok but I don't see anywhere they say they are waterproof. I'd also be worried they used a cheap plastic for the protective tube and that it would yellow and crack from the sun. Plus they aren't as low profile as the flexible LED strips so you might hit them putting things in the bed or washing the truck, etc.

Also, a tip for installing 3M stick-on stuff. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol and then use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the tape a little. It makes it tacky and bonds much better to whatever surface you're sticking it to.
 






Thanks for the info. I think I'll go your route.

Cheers.
 






No problem! If you have any questions on the install just shoot me a pm. I check my email all the time so I can usually get back to you quickly whenever.
 






Adding this to my list of projects, thanks!
How did you connect the strips together? Did you use the recommended connector SBL sells and lengthen it? It appears they only offer a 5" connector which wouldn't work to well to connect from one side of the bed to the other.
 






I did bed lights last year in my f250. I installed the switch in the dash though.

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I ran extra wire I had from the passenger side underneath with some other wires for my tail lights, etc. I then used that and tied in to the switch wires. I still used the tails that come with the strips, just extended them.
 






I ran extra wire I had from the passenger side underneath with some other wires for my tail lights, etc. I then used that and tied in to the switch wires. I still used the tails that come with the strips, just extended them.

That was actually my next question... Wasn't sure how much extra cable they provide to connect from one side of the bed to the other...

Can you explain exactly what you used and how you did it?
 






Supplies:
-red 18ga wire
-black 18ga wire
-crimp splices
-T-splices to tap into the hot and ground in the 12V plug
-wire strippers
-crimpers (if not soldering)
-soldering kit (if soldering)
-In-line fuse holder and fuse (Only need this if the bed plug isn't protected by a fuse [which it most likely is protected] in the factory fuse box)
-hair dryer (use for making the 3m tape on the back of the lights tacky)
-rubbing alcohol to clean area


I used either 16 or 18ga wiring. One spool is red one spool is black so that I could keep hot and ground easily separated.
For connecting the 2 strips together, you can either use crimped splices or soldered connections. I soldered everything since I had access to an iron.
I also used heat shrink on all connections to weatherproof them all (just use a hair dryer).

I'll get back to you on what to actually do later today and add more stuff if I can think of any.
 






Which side of the bed is your outlet on? In my 1st gen its on the drivers side but I want to confirm that before I put up my write-up and I can't find the answer online.
 






they switched it on the gen II mine is on the passenger side
 






This is a basic writeup. I'll include any tips and explanations I can think of so that anyone with any level of wiring experience can install these.

1M long light strip with switch

1M long light strip without switch

1. Determine where you want to mount the lights. If you use my version with the 39" long strips I would suggest just centering 1 on each side of the bed. Orient the lights so that the wires coming out of them will face the rear of the truck. This creates less stress on the wires (no sharp bends) plus requires less wire.

a. After figuring out where the lights will go you can go ahead and mount them but I always wait to mount things until I get it all hooked up and confirm everything works.

2. Determine where you want to mount your switch. The strip from SBLs has ~2ft leader between the light strip and the switch. Put this light on the passenger side with the 12V outlet. If it can reach, run the extra wire to the 12V access hole. If there isn’t enough, don’t worry about it until Step14.

3. Determine where the rear end of each light will be and where the wires can go through the bedside without kinking (probably an inch or so from the light itself).

4. Drill a small hole just large enough for the wires to fit through. Keep in mind you will want the connectors to fit through too (So ~3/8” or so).

5. Remove the 12V housing from the bedside. I'm not sure how to do this on the 2nd gen STs but on my 1st gen the housing is only held in by a couple screws that you can access easily from the bed.

6. Pull the housing out and this should expose the 12V wiring in the back of the plug.

7. Figure out which wire is hot (12V) and which is ground. I actually think that this plug is protected by a fuse from the factory so you really don't need an inline fuse.

8. Using the T-splices, tap into the appropriate wires. I would run red=hot, black=ground for easy convention. Run a short ~3” pigtail out of each.

9. Run the red and black wires between the bed wall and the rear fender out the access hole you drilled in Step 4. Pull enough so that there is ~6" extra. It's always best to have a small service loop in the event that you need to cut a connection and resplice it down the road. This also allows you to easily work with the connections in the open. You may need a wire coat hanger or some other form of a fish tape to feed the wires through.

10. Create the tie-in wire from the driver side to the passenger side. Take the raw red and black wires and run between the driver bed wall and fender and out the hole drilled in Step 4. (Do this from the bottom up so that you can cut the wire to length. Again, leave room for a service loop.

11. Use a butt splice (or solder) to splice the red and black wires to the light strip on the driver side (the one without the switch). Heat shrink or wrap the connections in electrical tape.

12. Pull the excess wire through the hole and down the bedside over the wheel well liner to the rear.

13. Route the red and black wires around the rear of the truck and up to the 12V outlet access hole and secure with zip ties as you go where the wires will not get damaged.

14. If there wasn’t enough wire in Step 2, go ahead and repeat step 11 on the passenger side. Then feed the wires between the bed wall and fender out the 12V access hole.

15. Splice all 3 ground wires together. The easiest will be to put the ground wires from the light strips together in one side of the butt splice and crimp them down. Then, slide the other end onto the ground pigtail that was created in Step 8 and crimp that down. Your lights should now be grounded.

16. Splice all 3 hot wires together. Use the same method as Step 15. Your lights should now have a complete circuit!

17. Now would be a good time to test and make sure everything works. Flip the switch and hope to see the light!
a. If they don’t work, go through and check all connections. If all connections are good, check to make sure the fuse for the 12V outlet is not blown.

18. Once everything works, use rubbing alcohol and a rag to clean off the mounting areas of the lights and the switch.

19. Heat up the tape on the strips and the switch until it’s tacky and stick to the bedside. This lets the tape bond better.

20. Feed all the wires back into the bed wall and close up the access hole.

21. Enjoy being able to see in the bed at night!
 






my $0.02, but I put some LED bulbs in the cargo lights in the 3rd brake light and they light up the bed really well, no need for under the rail lighting. I replaced both cargo lights and the 3rd brake light with these bulbs: Amazon LED Bulbs


one less thing to break too, and no drilling, etc

Also going to LED's from the incandescents will help with how hot the 3rd brake light gets. i found that the bulb plugs were getting so hot that the plastic was turning brown and starting to melt... not good!
 






That could be good for the sport trac with how small the bed is. My truck box on my super duty covers the cargo light and it's an 8' bed so that wasn't an option on that truck. If you do go with an LED 3rd brake light, don't ise Recon lights. Their quality has gone down the drain in the last couple years.

I also thought about T-ing into the cargo lights for power and just using that switch but I didn't want to kill my batteries if I used it for a long time and it's easier to hit a switch in the bed instead of having to jump out and hit the dome light. All this thinking is based on my crew cab long bed F350 though instead of the Trac.
 






The stop light/cargo light is fine except when the tonneau cover is on;)
 



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