Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

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Hall Power Monitor

I decided to go with a 3 wire voltmeter since they do not allow much if any current flow on the voltage sense circuit. The power wire for the volt meter will be hooked up to switched ignition voltage and uses less than .08 amps.
The sense circuit will be hooked up to the hallpower circuit.

I have already installed it but have to post some other pictures first. I redid my custom center console, I wanted to change a few things. The electric radiator fan override switch has annoyed me ever since I installed it. Made it harder to remove and install the center console so I wanted to move it. Also the two switches for the intercooler pump and fan were always a pain when removing the radio bezel which I just had done recently to install some LED's.

So here is some pics of my center console redo.
I picked up a couple consoles to experiment with from the junkyard, still have one left that is untouched.

 

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More Pics

Some more pics
The last two are pics of some molex terminals being crimped on right before they go into a white plastic 9 pin connector.

 

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Hall Power Monitor

OK here are the hallpower monitor pictures.
First I had to find the wire coming out of the GEM and splice into it.
Then it was time to find a place to mount the volt meter.
I ordered smoked plexiglass to cover it with, just figured it would look a little better. Have to wait for it to show up.

 

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More Pics

More pics

 

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Hallpower Monitor

 

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Underhood Voltmeter

Voltmeter Pics

 

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Underhood Voltmeter

Video

 

[Dono]

That center console cleaned up really nice.
On the hall power, its 10.3v in 2x4? Whats the 4x4 voltage? Im just trying to understand.

Also, underhood voltage. when would you be using that? It must be frequently.

 

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Center Console

Thanks Dono!

The Hallpower is just voltage supply to the transfercase(driveshafts) speed sensors. It is supposed to be a constant power supply(so it doesn't change) so the sensors can work, they need a power and a ground. Just so happens that the power is about 10 volts instead of 12 so the GEM (module) steps the 12 down to 10 and sends it out to the transfer case speed sensors.

There are 2 transfercase speed sensors, they create a digital square wave signal back to the GEM when the driveshafts are moving, the GEM sees the signals as mph(front and rear driveshaft speed). There is also a MPH from the ABS module to the GEM (and all other modules that need it like the instrument cluster), the GEM compares the VSS (vehicle MPH) to the driveshaft mph's and they should be close to one another. If not the system will disable. I had that problem when I put the 4.88 gears in so I installed that Dakota device a few pages back.

If the system is enabled, in Automatic 4WD, the GEM compares the front driveshaft speed to the rear driveshaft speed. If the front driveshaft is slower than the rear, the GEM will increase the duty cycle to the transfercase electronic clutch sending more power to the front wheels. More importantly to me, when the pedal is mashed to the floor the GEM applies 100% duty cycle to the transfercase clutch so I launch with all 4 wheels. When the vehicle gains momentum (mph) the duty cycle is dropped down so that there is no driveshaft binding at high speeds.

This system is essential to my truck to keep traction, without it, I just roast the rear tires. With it the truck comes off the starting line so fast people are like WTF? It is also why keeping the front tires down is important to me, I use all 4 when launching. Keep in mind I have over 300 ft lbs of torque around 3,000 rpm's and my stock converter is rated at around 3000 stall speed so I have all the torque right off the line, and 4.88 gears and street tires.

60 ft times are a way to kind of measure traction. My best is around 1.7
It is said that a .10 drop in 60 ft time will be a .2 drop in 1/4 mile time. I don't know how true that is but anyway.... Getting off the starting line helps get 1/4 mile times down.

So why monitor the power supply to the sensors if it doesn't change?
Well I have come to find that when one of the sensors shorts out, it shuts the whole system down, including the hallpower, and ends my fun at the track before it even starts. The 4WD lights don't even blink like they do when there is a different problem for shutting the system down. If I can catch a problem(by seeing no hallpower) before I leave my house I can swap out the sensor. If I see the voltage drop out while at the track I will know that trying to continue will be useless.
I have been off work for three weeks, using up some stored up vacation time. One of my main goals was to video a 1/4 mile run at night going down the track so I could post it here. The only night I could get to the track and there was no rain - one of the sensors shorted out leaving me sitting at the starting line roasting the tires. The other sensor was replaced back in 2009 with a used one, now this one was replaced with a used one too. You never know when one might go again. Damn, I better order some spares.

I don't know how useful the underhood voltmeter will be. Sure looks cool though. lol.

 

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Replaced Wideband sensor today

Last week while messing around with some data logging, I had the truck running so long in park without driving it that the Wideband O2 sensor overheated. It starts flashing all different readings that you know are not correct. The datalog reflects the same erroneous A/F readings and is unusable to tune with.

I have had this experience a few times before and most of the time just shut it off and let it cool down and it goes back to normal. Once it never went back to normal, I guess I burned out the sensor from overheating. I replaced the sensor and all was fine (part number Bosch 17014).

So to try to eliminate the problem I installed a bung extender from Innovate, since I am using their LC1 wideband sensor set up. We will see in the future if it does the job or not.

Today the wideband started acting up again, so the bung did not fix my issue. Or at least not completely. I replaced the sensor today and I also relocated the controller further away from the headers, maybe the controller was getting too hot? We will see if the problem comes back later. The rest of the day, after replacing the sensor, it was fine.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those pictures are all useful and cool. We need lots of information, especially with the modified systems.

I'm driving my old 95 Crown Vic that I had converted things to make it better for delivering mail from the right side, switches and lights etc. I only use the volt gauge now and the overhead auto dimming light. It does look cool too, even though I've forgotten which switches operate stuff, like the strobe lights, back up alarm, and the 3rd gear lock out(makes it a 2 speed trans only). I'll restore some things that won't be needed for sure, for a new owner, like the right side turn signal switches.

 

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Innovate Wideband O2 sensor (LC1) malfunctioning

Here is a video of the O2 sensor malfunctioning.

 

[4pointslow]

Those pictures are all useful and cool. We need lots of information, especially with the modified systems.

I'm driving my old 95 Crown Vic that I had converted things to make it better for delivering mail from the right side, switches and lights etc. I only use the volt gauge now and the overhead auto dimming light. It does look cool too, even though I've forgotten which switches operate stuff, like the strobe lights, back up alarm, and the 3rd gear lock out(makes it a 2 speed trans only). I'll restore some things that won't be needed for sure, for a new owner, like the right side turn signal switches.

Why you driving the crown vic, is the mountaineer down at the moment?

 

[CDW6212R]

Uh, yeah, I had a lean condition for a long time from a weak fuel pump(tested good the first two times), and one day going to work it became a very hard miss. Now since then I've only driven it for a few snow days, and to the dump a few times. I'm R&Ring the the trans of my 99 SOHC Explorer for now, then I can look at the Mountaineer to see if the engine is hurt.

 

[4pointslow]

Something is always breaking!
Saturday I thought I was done fixing for a while, planned on just getting some datalogging done. Then the wideband O2 sensor started acting up. It never ends sometimes. But then again, I am glad that it doesn't. What would I do with all that time! lol.
Good luck on the trans!

 

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Radio Bezel LED's

A while back I finished the Radio Bezel LED's so I am finally getting to posting some pics.
The picture of it lit up doesn't do it justice, the shade of green is way off. In real life it looks more like a dark emerald green.
I got the LED's off eBay, they looked like they would be a perfect fit for the fog and rear defrost switch, but they were not so I took the LED's out of the plastic pieces and installed them in the plastic pieces that came off my truck.

 

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Rear Wiper LED

Then I did the rear Wiper LED.

 

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4x4 led

Then last the 4X4 LED
I had to solder the little wires coming off the LED to the socket because they were a little short and I could not get them shoved in where they were supposed to go. It works fine though.

 

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LED's

The LED's I used had a miniature built in resistor on the back of them. They could be plug and play on the fog and rear defrost but felt a little loose to me so I switched the plastic pieces. I may use them for the Window switches too.
This way everything will be the same shade of dark emerald green.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

those are different looking, never seen those before. that 4x4 switch and the fogs are a ***** arent they.