Rusted Rockers on 93 EX Sport

[Watchman]

I would like to post some pictures of the rusted rockers on my 93 EX Sport. It is aa 2 door. Yesterday I used the EX to take a short trip and when I got home and stepped out my foot hit the plastic bottom piece that follows the rocker and it hit the ground - glad it didn't happen on the road. I also have pictures of the replacement parts that the Tabco guys sent me to get your opinions and advise.

I have forgotten how to insert pictures. Can some body post a quick instruction ?

Thank you - John

 

[FR-425]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359901

 

[Rhett]

Before I even see the pics, I know what you are talking about -- and most of us 1st gen guys probably know.

In my opinion the plastic rocker trim, as well as the foam Ford put between the metal sandwich that is our rockers, is good for one thing only -- collecting moisture. I removed that stuff a while back and have zero regrets

 

[Watchman]

Thanks FR for the post. I will try to get pics uploaded tonight

Rhett - you are right, the metal sandwich is basically gone on the driver's side. The pass side still has some of the rocker which should help me with correct replacement profiles.

Thanks to both of you - John

 

[Sitcoms]

Basically anyone that lives in a state that receives harsh winters w/ road sanding and drives and early gen explorer (first or second) is going to know what this is exactly.

 

[Watchman]

Pictures Uploaded

(dead links)

Well I hope these uploaded - photobucket was asking to check a box that was not there on their register page- so I gave up on them and went to Imgur.

Need help here

 

[Sitcoms]

(dead links)

Well I hope these uploaded - photobucket was asking to check a box that was not there on their register page- so I gave up on them and went to Imgur.

Need help here

Yup. Classic Rocker Rust.
Only real solution is to cut it out and place new medal there.

 

[Watchman]

Tabco Panels

Ok - here are the Tabco panels - for those who have done this - are these all needed ? I will probably ask somebody to weld them in (after cleaning the rust out of course) since I don't have welding skills or a welder. Please let me know by indicating top, middle or bottom panel from the Tabco pictures.

I appreciate all the advise and recommendations.

Thank you - John

 

[Watchman]

By the way the pass side is not quite as bad. The black plastic rocker trim is still holding onto strong metal for about 1/2th length. I have owned this explorer from day one and just replaced head gasket last summer, replaced headliner last fall. Great truck - over 325K.

 

[FR-425]

Your gonna need to section the bottom of the rear quarter. The wheel wells and all of the quarter panels are probably just as bad.

(opinion) it's toast. Maybe find another sport that needs a drive-train?

But if your just do'n it for fun and to "learn the hard way" go for it.

Hate rust!

 

[2stroke]

It looks normal to me. The body is structurally sound, it just looks a little bad. Spray paint it and run it. That's how we do it up here in da nort.

 

[Watchman]

We get a lot of salt up here in the Appalachians during winter. I will remove the rust and paint with a rust inhibitor paint.

But what do guys think ? - Are these Tabco panels the corret replacements - its hard to tell from the picture and I'm probably looking at 200- 300+ with the shipping for these panels.

Any thoughts ?

 

[Rhett]

I don't know about the Tabco panels but thanks for the heads up on them.

My truck's rockers are a work in progress. The sides of the rocker were relatively ok, but the bottom of the rocker was toast. After cutting out what I couldn't save, and grinding/sanding/rust-treating/priming/undercoating what I could save -- I ended up leaving the underside of the whole rocker panel open to the air. After all, no one can see the underside.

I figured if the base of the rocker was open, moisture will drain out, AND most importantly I can blast the crap out with water. With the stock rocker design, that insulation and metal sandwich will collect water and be slow to dry out. NVH (road noise by door sill area) is slightly higher without the insulation and with the open rocker bottom, but my tires drown that out. Or a little 80's Metallica.

 

[Rhett]

I meant to add that I no longer have the plastic trim pieces under there. I'm thinking about getting some rubber plugs to put in the holes for the push-pins that held the trim to the body.

If you want to keep your trim you'll definitely have to weld in new metal and re-drill for the push pin holes. In my case I didn't want to mess with that, and, I kind of like the bare look -- less stuff under the truck get ripped off in the woods, too.

 

[tonytheexplorer]

The rust looks bad.

 

[blacklake]

Years ago I used a sheet metal break and bent myself a new rocker section similar to the tabco piece on the bottom most location. Obviously my section did not contain the fancy blends on the front and back of the stamping.

I ground out the rust back to clean steel, then primed and painted the newly welded in piece. It looked good for a while, but it only took 2-3 years before I felt like it was back where I started. In hind sight I probably wouldn't attempt this again. And if I did decided to attempt it again I would have done a way more thorough job of removing even more rust. You would basically want to remove 100% of the rust that is withing a 6" radius of the area you are taking pictures of. The reason I say this is because rusting is more formally refered to a Galvanic Corrsion. The chemical process of galvanic corrosion is an electrical process. Meaning that when your body is actively rusting it is creating electric current that is flowing through the steel body.
My theory is that if you have a rusty piece of steel and you clean part of it up and weld a fresh piece of steel on there you are dooming the fresh steel to a premature death. In my laymen thinking this is because the electricity (free electrons) being generated by the rust on the old steel is electrically flowing to the new steel to complete the chemical reaction. Therefore causing accelerated rusting of the newly welded section. Accelerated meaning faster rusting than if no rust was present near by causing the galvanic reaction to start rusting.

Just my 0.02.

By the way I am very impressed that you have owned this vehicle yourself since 1993 and put 325K miles on it. That in itself is a true testament to beauty!! Let your explorer show the rust badges of honor that it has earned!!

 

[2stroke]

A friend of mine is into car body work. He says do not weld in the new piece, weld rusts. No matter what you do, the weld will ruin the work. He said to tack weld just a few spots to hold it, then I think he said to use some kind of filler.

Its a lot more work than you realize to fix rusted body. That rust is honestly not that bad, its just cosmetic.

 

[Watchman]

I appreciate all the comments - I plan to start this work in the next few weeks. Removing all the rust will be the key thing. Is there any good primers and paints to use ?

 

[Mike65]

Ok - here are the Tabco panels - for those who have done this - are these all needed ? I will probably ask somebody to weld them in (after cleaning the rust out of course) since I don't have welding skills or a welder. Please let me know by indicating top, middle or bottom panel from the Tabco pictures.

I appreciate all the advise and recommendations.

Thank you - John

John,
I am planning on getting these for my 99 Sport but I did not see a listing for the inner rocker. Do you have a part number for it?. The drivers side of mine is the worst.

 

[Watchman]

Mike - Tabco sent me those pictures. You can email your pictures to them. Call Dan or Tim at (216) 851-1404. I do not have the part number for the inner rocker. Please also remember that my explorer is a 93 Sport. They were very helpful.

John