No Start After M0012 Kit Install

[Windowlicker]

So I finally got around to installing the M0012 kit that I ordered to clear up my rough idling problems and now the engine won't crank up.

I checked all the vacuum hoses and lines as well as the electrical connections and they all seem to be in their respective place. All the bolts on the intake are tightened well. The best I can get is for it crank up for 1-2 seconds and then it dies. This only happens if I let it sit overnight, other then that it just turns over.

The power seems good, I can hear the fuel pump cycling on, there's fuel in the lines. I usually smell a strong amount of gas fumes after a couple of atempts. But I'm going to take it all apart again this weekend. Is there something I should be looking for?


98 Ford Explorer XLT SOHC 4X4

 

[yavapaires]

I may be dumb, but I've not heard of this kit. Can you explain what it is?

 

[yavapaires]

My bad. I looked it up, and saw what it is. I'm sure glad I have the 4.0 OHV engine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

quick check

A quick and easy way to check for ignition is to remove the main intake hose at the throttle body, open the throttle plate and spray starting fluid into the upper intake manifold. Replace the main intake hose and crank the starter. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds then you know that the ignition (coil, wires, plugs, firing order, crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor) are functional and there is a fuel problem. A common error after removing and reinstalling the intake manifold is miswiring the spark plug wires. Check that first.

Engine
Rear
3 6
2 5
1 4
Front
Coil
Rear
4 6 5
3 2 1
Front

 

[Kenowe]

So what is the M0012 kit ??

 

[Windowlicker]

I checked the plugs/wires firing order a week or so ago as I thought the previous owner had mixed them up causing the crap-tastic idle, but they were all correct and never removed during the install of the new gaskets. I'll try the starting fluid just for good measure though. I don't understand how it would start and run before and then 5 hours late not run at all. I disconnected the battery while doing the install...maybe that changed something. Also, the first time I started it I heard a slight sucking noise which made me think it was a vacuum line, but haven't heard it since. I'm gonna try and retorque all the intake bolts again as I didn't use a torque wrench the first go round.


The 00M12 kit is a Ford part made to correct and replace worn intake gaskets and cam tensioner. Do a search for "00M12 kit" and you'll find all the information you need.

 

[2000StreetRod]

any codes?

I doubt that retorquing the intake manifold bolts will make a difference. The engine should start and run even with minor vacuum leaks.

Do you have an OBD-II code reader? If the engine ran even just for a few seconds the PCM may have detected a problem and set a diagnostic code.

Check the TPS connector, the camshaft position sensor connector, the IAC valve connector and the MAF sensor connector. Did you disturb the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector?

Here's a list of vacuum connections: Intake manifold vacuum lines Your engine probably has the variable intake system (VIS) so there is another line to the VIS vacuum regulator.

 

[Windowlicker]

I do not have a DTC scanner yet so reading codes isn't possible.

I'll check the TPS, IAC, and MAF connectors. Both the ECT and temp gauge sensors are new as I had to replace them and the entire thermostat housing a month ago, however, I did have a slight issue while reconnecting everyting. I kept trying to plug the IAC connector on to the ECT sensor. It tooke a minute to figure out they were wrong but nothing looked broken or bent in the connectors and I believe I put them in the right place when finished. Where is the camshaft position sensor located?

Would the failure of any of those sensors prevent the engine from not starting? I know they play a role in the air/fuel tables and effect idle. I don't see why the engine wouldn't start and run on "limp" mode if the sensors were way off.

Thanks for the link, I'll keep it handy when I double check everything. I can't get over how many vacuum lines this engine has. My mustang has a V8 and maybe only half as many vacuum lines.

 

[2000StreetRod]

CPS location

The camshaft position sensor (CPS) is located in the top of the left valve cover just aft of the oil filler cap. It tells the PCM if the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Unlike the V8, the SOHC V6 will not start and run without a functional CPS.

 

[Windowlicker]

Thanks for the picture. I was under the impression is was located below the coil pack. Checking it will be easier than I expected. I think the CPS is my primary focus on this problem. Don't know how it could've gotten damaged but think I'll just replace it on a hunch and take it from there.

Replacing the CPS is pretty much a pop it out, pop it back in procedure right? No special requirments?

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel pressure?

The CPS is fairly reliable so if's its connected then that's probably not your problem. Do you have any way to check the fuel pressure? Is the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator?

 

[Windowlicker]

So here's what I've tried:

unplugged and tapped the camshaft position sensor. Don't know if it helped.
And then I tried cranking the engine for 10 seconds while flooring the gas pedal. This had the greatest results. The engine would start but only for a second. It dies as soon as I let go of the ignition or let off the pedal.

My next step:

I'm going to unplug, tap, and reconnect the crankshaft position sensor this time and see if that helps. Then I'm going to take everyting apart today and recheck all the lines and look over the fuel line connections and vacuum hoses.

Any other ideas, please chime in.

 

[Windowlicker]

Fixed...

I went to take everything apart today but before I did, I decided to unplug the camshaft position sensor and plug it back in as well as tap on the crankshaft sensor with a wrench as well.

The engine started right up.

idled pretty well and took it for a drive around the block. No oil leaks and a little better acceleration.
The problem now is that it won't idle long in park. Idles just fine in Drive but it's stalling when I shift it in to park. I think changing the plugs, wires, and fuel filter should solve that problem.

Now I have another problem that may be related...
While idling I turned the A/C knob on to see if it works now (I currently only have air blowing out of the rear vents) and of course it didn't. But when I turned on the A/C the engine idle got really jumpy going from 500RPM to 1500RPM. I turned the knob to the off position and nothing changed, just kept jumping.

I'd really like to know what the hell is causing this cause it's doing the exact same thing in my mustang, except the jumpy idle stops in the mustang when I turn the A/C knob to the off position.

Do I need to start a new thread for this or is it related?

 

[Turdle]

It is a bit related I think. .

I think the IAC valve may be sticking, which is why the idle will not recover in park.
If the AC refrigerant is low, the ac is probably cycling on and off, which requires the IAC to cycle smoothly to keep the idle stable.

tyr cleaning the internal plunger of the IAC

 

[blulite]

The camshaft position sensor (CPS) is located in the top of the left valve cover just aft of the oil filler cap. It tells the PCM if the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Unlike the V8, the SOHC V6 will not start and run without a functional CPS.

View attachment 64585

what is that little silver canister on the bottom left in the pic? The one with the sensor on!

I have a similar item setup on my engine but it leads to a cylinder behind the front grill...

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil pressure sensor

That's my oil pressure sensor so I can read the actual oil pressure instead of just what the stock gauge shows (above or below 5 psi). See posts 41 and 43 of 2000 Sport Long term project vehicle . Eventually a purchased a gauge to accurately display the pressure.

 

[blulite]

ok so here's my boggle.... I have a similar canister connected to my 98... its considerably larger and has one pipe running to the crank case in the same manor as yours. then it has positive wires running to and from it but I can't figure out where they go.

when I got the 98 there was a rocker switch on the steering column that seemed to not be connected to anything. so I removed it. Now when I think about it. The switch used the same grade wire as this canister except it was cut on the positive end. hence removal

I'm confused as to what this switch and canister are for. and why they were installed.

 

[2000StreetRod]

post a photo

It would help if you could post a photo of what you've described: Attachments and Images

The canister in my photo is attached to a Tee that goes to the oil pressure switch port. It is not connected to the crankcase. If your vehicle is an export model (steering wheel on the right) your configuration is different than mine. What you describe might be an emissions prevention device. Is the hose from the canister connected to the block (oil pressure switch port)? Another possibility is a block heater if connected where there would normally be a freeze plug and another hose connected to a water hose.