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Nice job, they look much better! Other than a heat gun, I'm not sure what else you could use other than having a shop dye the plastic again.
 



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Agree, looks MUCH better, even without the texture. You're brave, I have a nice Wagner heat gun but just can't pull the trigger knowing how hard matching door panels are to come by without having to buy the entire door. Good job and stop now while you're ahead. :thumbsup:
 






And because of seeing your door panels off, I decided it was time to fix my passenger side window this afternoon. The window kept sticking at the top of the track. I ended up pulling the panel off and sanding the surface rust off of what I could reach. Then spread every joint with silicone lubricant as well as all of the tracks. Works as it should again and after only 30 minutes of work.

Still need to look at the 5th window and figure out a better fix for my driver door lock mechanism but that's for another day.
 






N2ford,

Sorry if I'm responsible for your new project, but hey, it's fun. As far as the rear spark plug (#3) remove the plastic inner fender and it's a clear shot through the wheel well. I did mine last week. It's also a clear shot to the rear hydraulic tensioner this way. Easy to do, remove the tire a few bolts and a handful of screws and the inner fender comes right out.

I'm half way through replacing my valve cover gaskets. Now that's a fun job. Then I hope to do my trans service by the end of the week. Just waiting for my Wix filter to come in the mail, I already have my Merc V ATF and a drain plug. I also replaced my body mount bushings recently. I'm running out of stuff to do on this project. Only major thing left will be the driver's seat bottom.

Well, when you run out of stuff, come to my house. I have a laundry list of mods and upgrades:
TT drop front / blocks in the back
Running boards
Aftermarket radio
Storage pouch / rifle sleeve on back cab wall
Bull bar
LED 24" combo bar
Fix hard cover lock
Re-configure wheelchair lift

This stuff is tough since the spinal cord injury, especially on my own.
 






Im glad I started with the rear panels to learn on- that way I dont have to see it or look at it everyday. I'm trying to relearn myself that I shouldn't expect it to turn out like new from what it was and I didn't want to do the dye method, mainly because of cost and having to dye everything to match. This was free minus the heat gun which can be used on other projects… like maybe a retrofit (never liked the idea of using an oven)

In the previous picture, the panel on the left (that was done) is the rear drivers side. The panel on the right (rear passenger side) turned out a lot nicer- no white trail/edges. The biggest change was heat. I turned the heat down a couple notches and worked it slow. I'll post an after, after I put on some natural shine.

The heat gun was a harbor freight special- Chicago 12 settings. I started at 650 and bumped it up to 700 on the 1st panel- working it fast. On the 2nd panel i stayed at 550 and had to work it slow. The key so far was to not get it to turn shiny, we are trying to pull the color back up not melt the plastic.
 






I started working on my daughter's 2000 AWD Mountaineer. The front prop shaft CV joint is toast. Located and purchased the Dorman CV joint repair kit, a good T30 Torx socket for the u-jount strap bolts, a CV boot banding tool and SoNic67 supplied a good YouTube video. I'll have the shaft out today and then I have to wait until next week for the new joint and banding tool to arrive.

I also need to remove and reseal the front diff cover. It looks like I'll have to remove, or at least take the front diff loose, in order to remove the cover. Thanks a lot Ford. Way to make what should be a simple job a total PITA.

I had replaced the front axle seals a couple of years ago and the passenger side still leaks. I think either the axle or bearing is worn allowing the axle to wiggle around just enough to keep the seal from maintaining good contact. If I have to remove the front diff, maybe I'll replace the bearing (and/or axle). This vehicle is being retired to occasional hauling duty in about a month, so I don't really want to put much time and money into it, but the leaks bug me and the diff cover leak is pretty bad.
 






Update on door panels. I did a final clean w/ mg interior detailer then some natural shine. I think this is as best as it will get. Compare to previous 50/50 picture posted earlier

6FD25A19-8776-495C-83A4-2F2BC3B87266_zpsq2wn39ln.jpg
 






Painted my bumpers

Painted my bumpers this weekend, turned out great! Black looks way better than grey. Took a drive out to a local dam, took a few pictures with my buddy. Next is lowering blocks, new shocks, and caltracs!
Hb6ef0s.jpg
 






I rebuilt the front driveshaft CV joint in my daughter's AWD '00 Mountaineer, did a front brake job and put 4 new tires on it.

Next weekend I need to remove. test and probably replace the EATC controlled blend door actuator in my other daughter's '00 Mountaineer. No heat and it's getting cold in the mornings (she goes to work at 4:30 AM).

Then maybe I can get back to work on the ST.
 






Well, when you run out of stuff, come to my house. I have a laundry list of mods and upgrades:
TT drop front / blocks in the back
Running boards
Aftermarket radio
Storage pouch / rifle sleeve on back cab wall
Bull bar
LED 24" combo bar
Fix hard cover lock
Re-configure wheelchair lift

This stuff is tough since the spinal cord injury, especially on my own.

Well, I finally got started and ordered the lowering blocks, camber kit and new shocks. Gotta start sometime or it'll never get done.
 






Well, I finally got started and ordered the lowering blocks, camber kit and new shocks. Gotta start sometime or it'll never get done.

I wish I was still up in Culpeper, I'd be willing to come help out for a day.
 






101_2421 (800x450).jpg


Gave them both a quick hand wash last Sat. The right rear wheel on the black truck has been badly discolored from baked on brake dust since I got it 18 months ago. Regular car wash soap hasn't lessened it at all. This time I used Eagle One All Wheel and Tire Cleaner (orange spray bottle) and with some minimal brushing, it came right off. That wheel now shines as bright as the others. The finish on all 4 wheels is bad, but they all shine as best they can now.

I was in the local Habitat for Humanity Restore this week and found a can of Silver Argent Krylon Fushion, a can of matte clear, and 2 cans of gray Dupli-color Bumper Coating - which is supposed to restore plastic bumper covers and has an '01-03 Sport on the can - all for $1.50 a can. My console section where the cup holders are needs painted/refinished, and I was thinking to paint it black, but might go with the argent.

Missed out on an '01 ST with a bad engine, but otherwise good, for $500. I was the 2nd person to answer the ad. It had a gray leather interior, step bars, and a front hitch. 1st guy looked at it and bought it this morning. RATS!
 






View attachment 86390

Gave them both a quick hand wash last Sat. The right rear wheel on the black truck has been badly discolored from baked on brake dust since I got it 18 months ago. Regular car wash soap hasn't lessened it at all. This time I used Eagle One All Wheel and Tire Cleaner (orange spray bottle) and with some minimal brushing, it came right off. That wheel now shines as bright as the others. The finish on all 4 wheels is bad, but they all shine as best they can now.

I was in the local Habitat for Humanity Restore this week and found a can of Silver Argent Krylon Fushion, a can of matte clear, and 2 cans of gray Dupli-color Bumper Coating - which is supposed to restore plastic bumper covers and has an '01-03 Sport on the can - all for $1.50 a can. My console section where the cup holders are needs painted/refinished, and I was thinking to paint it black, but might go with the argent.

Missed out on an '01 ST with a bad engine, but otherwise good, for $500. I was the 2nd person to answer the ad. It had a gray leather interior, step bars, and a front hitch. 1st guy looked at it and bought it this morning. RATS!

As you may have read (and saw) I repainted mine ST's silver interior pieces with Krylon MAXX silver. They came out really well. I was going to clear-coat them afterwards, but found it to be unnecessary, as the MAXX left a nice textured finish and seems extremely durable.

Console and center stack:
115_0082_zpsn9ta2llr.jpg


Here it is with the white-face HVAC controls overlay:
115_0100_zpspwafrdnk.jpg


For cleaning tires/wheels (and just about anything else that car wash wont handle) I use Purple Power. 2 Gal jug at Walmart is under $12. Great stuff. I put it in a small pump sprayer, spray it on cool tires/wheels, brush it around a little and hose it off. You'll be amazed at the crud it takes off. Never use it on glass or bare aluminum though.
 






For cleaning tires/wheels (and just about anything else that car wash wont handle) I use Purple Power. 2 Gal jug at Walmart is under $12. Great stuff. I put it in a small pump sprayer, spray it on cool tires/wheels, brush it around a little and hose it off. You'll be amazed at the crud it takes off. Never use it on glass or bare aluminum though.

I'll keep that in mind. I really bought the Eagle One because I wanted to be sure I had something safe to use on the paint/clearcoat on the wheels on the silver truck. I think it was about $5. I went pretty heavy on the black truck, lighter on the silver truck as it was cleaner to begin with, but there's not much left after doing the 8 tires and wheels.
 






Took my cluster out of the red one, my cel was burnt out and my oil pressure needle was way off, like pointing straight down.
Picked up some 265/75/16 Good Year Authority A/T tires for the white ST, used but in good shape. I will get them on and post pictures when I get the truck back from a friend that is borrowing it.
 






Took my cluster out of the red one, my cel was burnt out and my oil pressure needle was way off, like pointing straight down.
Picked up some 265/75/16 Good Year Authority A/T tires for the white ST, used but in good shape. I will get them on and post pictures when I get the truck back from a friend that is borrowing it.

I had a CEL bulb out on my RWD 2000 Mountaineer. I swapped it with a bulb (4WD) that wasn't being used. Ford populates all the bulb sockets, so there are usually spares.

As far as the oil pressure needle, I've had them bounce so hard on a SOHC that the needle ended up on the wrong side of the stop pin. This can happen when you've got pieces of broken t/c cassette in the lower pan blocking the oil pickup.
 






Slow day at work today so I pulled my '01 inside and lubed the window track on the driver's side. The window would lower a couple of inches then hang up. It would go down smoothly once I helped it past that point.

I also took out the remnants of the old airbag which had deployed long before I bought it. The airbag I installed is one I got from an '01 or '02 Sport at the salvage yard awhile back. It was tan but I painted it gray with some vinyl paint. It's lighter than the rest of the wheel, but matches the gray around the gauge cluster pretty well. I didn't hook it up because it won't work anyway. The main thing I hope to accomplish is to get the horn to work, and possibly the cruise control, but the ribbon wire on left side has been cut. I think one of the wires is the ground. I'll try to get the wires from the Sport at the salvage yard this week. I already got the airbag (not the one I painted), left fender, front corner lights, and cupholder section of the console from that Sport. Also, the "tool tray" above the headlights.

After I got home and straightened and lubed the window mechanism in my son's Mountaineer, I pulled the cupholder section of the '01 to paint it later this week. I'll post before and after pics when it's done.
 






Fixed a dead brake light and a broken caliper bolt on my girlfriend's WJ. Then tried to find what the heck is causing my Trac to shake over 55mph. It's usually solid all the way past 75, which is about the fastest it should ever go anyway. Thought it was a loose wheel. Checked all the lugs and they're all tight. No play in ball joints or anything so the search continues. Always something once you start modifying vehicles
 






Well, should of done something about this long ago! My excuses were its my dd and I'll do it later but while looking at it I wondered where to start. Keep in mind I don't have a welder, haven't learned to weld yet (cause I will eventually) and I can't afford to pay someone to do the job. I won't be able to complete what I started in just a weekend either so I'll do as much I can in steps and hopefully make it easier when it comes to the passenger side.

Only way to start is just pick up a sander and grinder and see what's what, I guess. So I did, started sanding started poking started cutting and scraping. I didn't and don't want to go up in the door jamb to the spot welds (but will have to go up to the 1st body line in the middle). I'll have to add to the back piece (nearest frame) half way up, I'll have to add to the lower portion of the inner rocker and obviously the outer. I'm still going to cut the inner some but won't cut the back piece till I can somehow weld the new on.

My neck and back are hurting so I'm done for today but I did clean out the loose rust and sprayed everything w/ silicon spray. I'll try to cut the inner tomorrow and clean it real good, treat w/ a rust inhibitor, clean again and spray any left over rust with rust converter (spray primer on any bare metal). My hope is that will get me by until I can figure out fabricating new pieces and finding someone to weld them on. So unfortunately I will be driving like this until then. I know it's not ideal but what else is there? This is also why I'm not putting this in the body sub forum.

67CA1FAC-F8E9-474B-9E25-1154F09702E7_zpsuripprmf.jpg


Welcome to ideas
 



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I tore apart my daughter's '00 Mountaineer 2WD 5.0L To change a bad waternpump. I've gotten all of the bolts out of the old w/p except 1. I've drilled holes in the w/p housing and timing cover to be able to get penetrant on the bolt, heated the parts with a MAP torch and just about rounded the head of the bolt off to no avail. At this point I don't know if I can even break it off if I wanted to. There's not enough room to use my impact wrench on the bolt or to swing a hammer. At this point I don't know what to try next, I'm letting it soak overnight. Maybe a trip to the tool store tomorrow to see what's available.
 






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