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Front differential broken?

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Is that a bent shaft? There is some play at the ends because the axle kind of floats and the hub holds the end but that looks excessive.

To answer your question about Mile Marker, some people swear by Warn but I've only had Mile Marker. Been great for years on my daily driver. I don't do heavy off-roading but last winter saw me putting chains on the front quite a bit. Before I got it, my 1991 Explorer was a firewood getter, hauling a heavy trailer offroad, presumably in 4x4. My 1994 has Mile Marker hubs as well and the whole vehicle was super neglected for years. The hubs were engaged when I picked it up, I assume they were left that way 24x7, even on summer pavement. Despite it's numerous issues, 4x4 still works great with the hubs.

When I rebuilt the front axles, bearings and brakes, I noticed that my hub o-rings were torn or missing. I contacted Mile Marker about this and they were prompt to reply and shipped me a set for a very reasonable price. They're a special kind of square-edge o-ring and considering they help seal the wheel bearings, I wanted the right ones. I'm happy with Mile Marker as a company and wouldn't hesitate to buy a new set of hubs if I ever needed to.
 






Both axles are like that but the driver side (in picture) was worse to the point where the hub wouldn't sit flat on the rotor without lug nuts holding it. the lower ball joint has some play in it so i may remove that axle and check it.
 






Seems really extreme to me. I don't have a picture of mine but I know for sure that you should be able to set the hubs on flush with the rotor and they will stay there.

I don't think the axles will bend like that, everything I've seen is that they'll just shear or break. It may be that the spindle bearings are so far gone that the axle is just flopping around and bending because of that. The spindle bearings kind of guide the end of the axle straight into the hub.

Definitely pop the rotor & spindle off and see what's going on, that's about all you can do at this point.
 






Tried rotating the drive shaft with the hubs off and there was no movement on the passenger side.

took the spindles off and took the axles out. The driver side spindle bearings were destroyed and all the u joints are locked up solid. the driver side c clip was also almost off.

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Well, there's your problem. Now you get the opportunity to rebuild the front end and have confidence in it.

If you need the spindle bearings kit, it's BRG BK1 from NAPA.

It's hard to tell from the pics but did the lack of spindle bearings eat into the axle stub shaft?
 






they are a little rough but no gouging surprisingly. i already ordered the spindle bearing and seals for both sides.

Now back to the passenger side is it worth dropping the diff. i mean i need to to change the inner passenger side u joint correct?
 






they are a little rough but no gouging surprisingly. i already ordered the spindle bearing and seals for both sides.

Now back to the passenger side is it worth dropping the diff. i mean i need to to change the inner passenger side u joint correct?

I didn't change that one on mine. It doesn't see near as much use/abuse as the outer ones do with steering. Looks like the inner is held in with a snap ring, maybe you do have to drop the diff to get at it?

Take a look at yours, if you don't see powdery orange rust around the u-joint and it's not super tight to rotate, let it go. The outer u-joints and spindle bearings are more important.
 






Pretty sweet mess you have there. Makes me glad I live in Georgia where until last winter they hardly knew what salt was.
If you are going to get new locking hubs the mile maker may do, but the best are WARN 37780 hubs. currently listed for $216.22 and the spindle nut kit WARN 32720
Amazon will tell you they do not fit your vehicle, but that is because they are designed for Jeep. Plenty of people did this including me. The spindle nut socket is optional imo.
 






This is what mine looked like with the Spindle nuts installed
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Now back to the passenger side is it worth dropping the diff. i mean i need to to change the inner passenger side u joint correct?

I agree with what nate said. Change that one joint and the spindle bearings, put on the manual hubs, and see what you got.

The inner passenger side axle shaft is held in the diff with a c clip, and getting the dif opened involves a hige amount of front end tear down.
 






Any tips on getting the spindle bearing out. I'm trying to use a punch to tap it out but it's so rusty that the metal is just folding.

Also I'm doing the ball joints and the pinch bolt on both sides are completely circled. Should i just drill them out and use a nut and bolt?
 






Regarding the spindle bearing, a punch and a lot of time is what it takes. Mine weren't even rusted in but it's just an awkward angle to punch and not much biting surface. You might be able to sneak a hacksaw blade in and cut it in half then fold it over to remove. The name of the game is brute force. Not real way to press/pull it out.
 






For the ball joint pinch bolt, heat up the outside, not the bolt, and use a vice grips. You normally replace that bolt anyway.
 






the problem with the pinch bolt is mine is recessed into the knuckle. There is no where for the vise grip to grab. already tried a small sized socket pounded on it just spun.
 






spindle bearings are replaced and pinch bolt is cut so i can drop the knuckle and drill it out on the press.

The passenger side axle will not spin with the differential. it can spin opposite of the driveshaft with no catching or binding
 






Can't you remove the passenger side axle shaft by removing the slip yoke rubber cover and leaving the inner stub intact? I remember doing that to mine, but its been many years.

If you pulled the driver side axle shaft out, replace the diff seal on that side while you have it out.

You thought about replacing the spindles? If its that badly rusted, it might be easier.
 






i already have the axles out other than the passenger stub. What is concerning me is it doesn't seem like the axle stub is connected in the differential.

Is there anyone who sells new spindles?
 






I had that same problem with my pinch bolts. I ended up goint to the parts store and getting what looks like a deep well socket with splines inside used for removing stripped bolts. soaked the bolt in penetrating oil and hammered it on and the bolt came right out. no heat required.
 



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already tired them it shredded the bolt head off. they are just to rusted.
 






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