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03 lincoln aviator
- Thread starter jd4242
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apenland01
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I've been following your adventure, good to see!
jd4242
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Never give up, never surrender! lol (Name the movie, without google!)
Sounds good and healthy ? Ready to rip down the road I hope?
Mannn you got me and now its driving me crazy!! Right on tip of my tongue! !
Yea sounds good,the loudest thing is the injectors, cant really even tell its running otherwise. .i need to fill the tranny up then do a master reset to let it learn everything again,then test drive to learn shift points.
I've been following your adventure, good to see!
Your telling me,this was my first DOHC or even over head cam anything or obd2 vehicle ive worked on.ive got a very good understanding of "mechanics" and this motor tested me in every way..
If the machine shop didnt mess the cams up this honestly wasnt that bad of a job,probably 20 hours worth for a newbie. .
jd4242
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Just a fyi if anyone decides to use just a underdrive crank pulley alone with stock other pulleys,it takes a 3" shorter belt..we shall see how my volts,AC and MPG are affected..(#5060970) 97" long belt
Also will see how the cooling mod works out,hard to tell if its helping but its gota be helping keep the heads even temps..cant believe BOTH heads dont have a water exit in the rear anywhere!!
Also will see how the cooling mod works out,hard to tell if its helping but its gota be helping keep the heads even temps..cant believe BOTH heads dont have a water exit in the rear anywhere!!
jd4242
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Last bit of advice ill share about doing timing chains...
The book has you set #1 at tdc and use a crank holding device as well as a cam holding device. ..
There is a easier, SAFER way of doing it..
Set you crank #1 to TDC..pull your cover and anything you need to get to your chains..****now TURN the crank clockwise till the key way is at 12:00**** this is just past TDC and moves the pistons just low enough that no valves will hit if you need to spin you cams......this also sets the MAIN cam gears to around 1:00 for the driverside and about 12:00 for passengers head(using the horizon as guideline)..this spot the cams are BARLEY under tension and dont try to spin on you...the smaller cam gears timing dots will be at 12:30ish with the keyways at about 6:30ish ((using the head as your guideline))...
If you remove the cam chains you can now safely spin each cam without hitting a piston...to get the cam chain back on without the special tool you need 2 deep 18mm sockets. .put the cam gear bolts in the cams without the washers,now put the cam gears over the two sockets with chain and spin each gear as needed till the cam gears slip off the sockets aligning up with the cam keyways which should both be around 6:30ish.*****THERE SHOULD BE 7 LINKS FROM CENTER TIMING DOT TO CENTER TIMING DOT****.while holding pressure with socket drivers keeping it aligned pull the tensioner pin out..remove the 2 sockets and drivers,remove the cam bolts and put the washer back on the intake cam bolt and tq that bolt down...your cam gears are now done
You can now safely spin the cams a full 360 if need be to get the main chain to go back on and align..the crank gear dots should be at about 6:30ish(((keyway still at 12:00)))....if you dont have colored links anymore,lay the chain out and mark the very end links..it is even number of links between the two marks......
Put the colored link on the crank dot and spin the CAM if needed to get the cam main gear alignment dot to line up with the colored link..put cam gear on cam and do not tq this bolt yet or do not put the tensioner on yet!!! Do the passengers side now the same way...once both are done put the tensioner on but DO NOT PULL PINS YET...double check ALL FOUR COLORED LINK ARE ON THE MAIN CAM GEAR DOT AND THE CRANK DOTS!!!
The crank keyway should still be at 12:00 (right past TDC) and the cam main gears should be around 1:00ish to 12:00ish..its not really important about the ""position"" of the dots now as long as the dots are on the colored links and you set the crank right past TDC at 12:00...NOW PULL BOTH CLIPS/PINS out of the tensioner. *****NOW TQ THE CAM MAIN GEAR BOLTS***...
you can now slightly turn the crank CLOCKWISE if need be to take and slack out of the ""tension"" ((right side of chains,the side thats stright and doesnt have the tensioner on them)) if need be from TQing the cam bolts,you want that side nice and tight...this shouldn't take much,maybe a 1/16 of turn on the crank......
Now TRIPPLE check all dots are on colored links...you are now timed correctly and can spin the motor all you want clockwise only!!!!
This is the ONLY way to do it with out the special tools and not bend valves....ill try and explain better if anyone needs it...
The book has you set #1 at tdc and use a crank holding device as well as a cam holding device. ..
There is a easier, SAFER way of doing it..
Set you crank #1 to TDC..pull your cover and anything you need to get to your chains..****now TURN the crank clockwise till the key way is at 12:00**** this is just past TDC and moves the pistons just low enough that no valves will hit if you need to spin you cams......this also sets the MAIN cam gears to around 1:00 for the driverside and about 12:00 for passengers head(using the horizon as guideline)..this spot the cams are BARLEY under tension and dont try to spin on you...the smaller cam gears timing dots will be at 12:30ish with the keyways at about 6:30ish ((using the head as your guideline))...
If you remove the cam chains you can now safely spin each cam without hitting a piston...to get the cam chain back on without the special tool you need 2 deep 18mm sockets. .put the cam gear bolts in the cams without the washers,now put the cam gears over the two sockets with chain and spin each gear as needed till the cam gears slip off the sockets aligning up with the cam keyways which should both be around 6:30ish.*****THERE SHOULD BE 7 LINKS FROM CENTER TIMING DOT TO CENTER TIMING DOT****.while holding pressure with socket drivers keeping it aligned pull the tensioner pin out..remove the 2 sockets and drivers,remove the cam bolts and put the washer back on the intake cam bolt and tq that bolt down...your cam gears are now done
You can now safely spin the cams a full 360 if need be to get the main chain to go back on and align..the crank gear dots should be at about 6:30ish(((keyway still at 12:00)))....if you dont have colored links anymore,lay the chain out and mark the very end links..it is even number of links between the two marks......
Put the colored link on the crank dot and spin the CAM if needed to get the cam main gear alignment dot to line up with the colored link..put cam gear on cam and do not tq this bolt yet or do not put the tensioner on yet!!! Do the passengers side now the same way...once both are done put the tensioner on but DO NOT PULL PINS YET...double check ALL FOUR COLORED LINK ARE ON THE MAIN CAM GEAR DOT AND THE CRANK DOTS!!!
The crank keyway should still be at 12:00 (right past TDC) and the cam main gears should be around 1:00ish to 12:00ish..its not really important about the ""position"" of the dots now as long as the dots are on the colored links and you set the crank right past TDC at 12:00...NOW PULL BOTH CLIPS/PINS out of the tensioner. *****NOW TQ THE CAM MAIN GEAR BOLTS***...
you can now slightly turn the crank CLOCKWISE if need be to take and slack out of the ""tension"" ((right side of chains,the side thats stright and doesnt have the tensioner on them)) if need be from TQing the cam bolts,you want that side nice and tight...this shouldn't take much,maybe a 1/16 of turn on the crank......
Now TRIPPLE check all dots are on colored links...you are now timed correctly and can spin the motor all you want clockwise only!!!!
This is the ONLY way to do it with out the special tools and not bend valves....ill try and explain better if anyone needs it...
jd4242
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Awww hahaRunning and hot. Cycle through the gears.
Galaxy Quest btw
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Probably just a bunch of raw fuel from prior cranking. Let it run outside for a bit and see if it clears up.
jd4242
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O no it does it every time i start it..this was after i started last night and let it run for 15 mins..i didnt notice it last night because of everything burning off the pipes and the paint baking. .plus figured it was gonna smoke for first fire getting all the crap outProbably just a bunch of raw fuel from prior cranking. Let it run outside for a bit and see if it clears up.
Also smokes for about 2 minutes or so after you start it.gets better with time or you just dont notice it as bad..oil is definitely running down into the ports or cylinder when you shut it off
jd4242
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Yea not happy about truck,taking to him first thing tomorrow morning. .Not cool...
What is cool is that garage! Where do you have that???
Its my old shop,i was spose to have moved out by August 1,i asked the owner for a couple extra days..hes not happy how long ive been in there..
jd4242
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Well it appears i have bad oil rings...
I took it took him this morning and we pulled the covers and checked all the seals..they were all good..we also checked the tb and pcv for oil,they were pretty bone dry..
Pulled plugs and all 8 had oil on them..did a leak down test and compression test and all look pretty good except #7,it leaked at 18%...
This thing smokes REALLY REALLY BAD on start up and pretty much smokes the whole time it runs..smokes if you rev,smokes when you drive it..ive used about a qt if not more in oil.....
Now this thing didnt burn oil or smoke when i first bought it,maybe the SMALLEST poof at start up but blamed that on seals and guides. .
soo what happened ??? I didnt touch the bottom end..he is saying its from dirt or carbon that got down into the rings from me cleaning the top of the pistons and from removing the head.said he thinks its gotten down into the rings and clogged the oil rings.....also said now the heads are rebuilt and causing much more pressure it can cause a ""going bad"" ring to act 5x worse...said antifreeze, brake cleaner and anything else could dry the rings up and cause them to stick as well
He suggested i run zmax and anything else i can think of and see if they come unclogged or free up..if not he suggests i do rings before i clog cats ,foul plugs and foul O2s...
So i have put some crap in the oil and going to see what happens. .can tell you i put about a 130 miles on it today alone and its still smoking BAD...ill give it till next week and going to tear it BACK apart and do rings. .like to find a nice set of forged pistons and rods wile im at it...ugggg
I took it took him this morning and we pulled the covers and checked all the seals..they were all good..we also checked the tb and pcv for oil,they were pretty bone dry..
Pulled plugs and all 8 had oil on them..did a leak down test and compression test and all look pretty good except #7,it leaked at 18%...
This thing smokes REALLY REALLY BAD on start up and pretty much smokes the whole time it runs..smokes if you rev,smokes when you drive it..ive used about a qt if not more in oil.....
Now this thing didnt burn oil or smoke when i first bought it,maybe the SMALLEST poof at start up but blamed that on seals and guides. .
soo what happened ??? I didnt touch the bottom end..he is saying its from dirt or carbon that got down into the rings from me cleaning the top of the pistons and from removing the head.said he thinks its gotten down into the rings and clogged the oil rings.....also said now the heads are rebuilt and causing much more pressure it can cause a ""going bad"" ring to act 5x worse...said antifreeze, brake cleaner and anything else could dry the rings up and cause them to stick as well
He suggested i run zmax and anything else i can think of and see if they come unclogged or free up..if not he suggests i do rings before i clog cats ,foul plugs and foul O2s...
So i have put some crap in the oil and going to see what happens. .can tell you i put about a 130 miles on it today alone and its still smoking BAD...ill give it till next week and going to tear it BACK apart and do rings. .like to find a nice set of forged pistons and rods wile im at it...ugggg
mountaineer2004
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Wow, that's terrible! You must have the patience of Job.
Tyleryac had crap field work done in his rebuild saga too.
When/if my engine goes, it's definitely a reman for me.
Hopefully, you're nearing the end of your saga...good luck.
Tyleryac had crap field work done in his rebuild saga too.
When/if my engine goes, it's definitely a reman for me.
Hopefully, you're nearing the end of your saga...good luck.
jd4242
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I actually just look at long blocks on rock auto,they arnt bad. $3,000 ishWow, that's terrible! You must have the patience of Job.
Tyleryac had crap field work done in his rebuild saga too.
When/if my engine goes, it's definitely a reman for me.
Hopefully, you're nearing the end of your saga...good luck.
Im roughly $1,700 into just my motor.. $250ish was in wasted parts/gaskets that i have to reorder. .
Going to start next fri,sep 2 ..gonna take that friday off and im off that monday for Labor Day..honestly should only take 2 days now that i know what im doing..
jd4242
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Got all my parts in so good to go this weekend..gonna start this friday, wish me luck!!
Also got a new set of tires for my 18" cobra rims so finally can put them on the truck..paid $120 for 4 tires 245/60/18.they all have pretty good tread and same size as the 17s thats on it now..found out i have 3.55 open rear gears also,i have a spare 3.73 ls gear set that i might swap in down the road..
Also got a new set of tires for my 18" cobra rims so finally can put them on the truck..paid $120 for 4 tires 245/60/18.they all have pretty good tread and same size as the 17s thats on it now..found out i have 3.55 open rear gears also,i have a spare 3.73 ls gear set that i might swap in down the road..
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jd4242
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Well might not get to work on it..i no longer have a shop or garage to work on it in and there is a tropical storm hitting us..going to rain almost all weekend!!!



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