03 lincoln aviator

[jd4242]

Intake is cleaned and painted. It came pretty dang clean,the upper really got clean and i would say 98% of the lower is clean.there is some spots that i just couldnt get to or just would not come off.i pressure washed it and used a wire brush..also painted my alt..

Going to adjust my trans band and fill it up.then all i got left is the oil filter mount gasket till i get the heads back..

Used metallic gunmetal with "clear effects"" and high temp clear on the manifold and timing cover..it SPARKLES in the sun..

You can see the top how clean it came,ill get better pictures tomorrow. .

 

[jd4242]

Still no heads,said they are still working on them.also the owner is on vacation till next monday, explains why he wasnt there the other day..

i hope he left them a CASH/RETURN custom price for me and they dont just try to charge me by the book..

O also got the new underdrive set,its machined correct. .also found part numbers for a shorter belt,think ill try a 1/2" shorter to start with (99.5") (#5060995)

 

[jd4242]

Need help...

The felpro head gaskets say""determine which bolts extend into coolant passages, apply sealant to them""

None i pulled out had sealant on them and the ford manual doesnt mention this at all...do any need sealant? ???

 

[jd4242]

Still need a answer if any head bolts need sealant. ..

But got the heads on tonight with one slight mishap, my dad put the single head bolt that doesnt come all the way out in the wrong hole,i even rubber banded it and didnt notice it..so the driverside head had to come back off to put the bolt in the right hole..

Also what in hell is up with a 6 step tq process, never seen or even understand it but took us a good hour per head just soing head bolts!!! So all we got done was the heads.hopefully tomorrow ill tackle the timing chains and get the front of motor buttoned back up.then Saturday get the intake and radiator back in.

Also still need to adjust the trans bands and add fluid but pretty sure it needs to have run and warm before adding tranny fluid. .

The heads look good,did a real nice job on the valve seats and the valves them selves look real nice. Said they were a nice set of valves..

I didnt take any pictures of the valves or really any of the head besides the ""coolant mod"" which is gonna be a PIA the get the hose clamps tight with the heads on..

 

[jd4242]

Anyone on the head bolts questions? ?

 

[4pointslow]

That is just a standard note about thread sealant on the head bolts, they put it there all the time it seems.
If the head bolts do not go into a coolant passage then you don't need sealant on them.
Did any of them go into the coolant passage on your engine? In other words, does the head bolt hole open up to a coolant passage? Or were they blind holes?

 

[jd4242]

That is just a standard note about thread sealant on the head bolts, they put it there all the time it seems.
If the head bolts do not go into a coolant passage then you don't need sealant on them.
Did any of them go into the coolant passage on your engine? In other words, does the head bolt hole open up to a coolant passage? Or were they blind holes?

Well we didnt see that note till the heads were on the motor and we certainly wasn't going to pull it back off.

None of the old head bolts had anything on them..shoot you know what,i still have the old gaskets. I bet i can tell from it if any head bolt holes connect to water passages. .hmmm

 

[jd4242]

Well bad news..it started,ran for about 10sec and ran like it wasnt getting fuel, then stalled..

Tested the Schrader valve and some air definitely came out for 3 sec before gas did..i then went to the passengers side to the very end of the rail where a sensor screws in and removed that,gas cane right out..

So go to start it again and NOTHING. .wont start or even attempt to start,sounds like its now not getting spark..

So pulled the cables and did a master reset thinking it shut it self off because of a fuel vapor lock..let it sit for 15 mins and go to try and restart..

NOTHING AT ALL..definitely smell gas and it sounds like its not getting spark at all..not even thinkimg about trying to start..

What would cause no spark issues? ? Not 100% its not getting spark but like 99.9%,ill pull a plug in the morning to confirm..

HELP!!

 

[4pointslow]

Maybe it is just something left unplugged? Coolant temperature sensor? (often read -40 in scan tool if unplugged), MAF sensor plugged in all the way?
Your last post said time was 11:08 PM, you were probably just tired.
You will get it!

 

[jd4242]

Maybe it is just something left unplugged? Coolant temperature sensor? (often read -40 in scan tool if unplugged), MAF sensor plugged in all the way?
Your last post said time was 11:08 PM, you were probably just tired.
You will get it!

We tripple checked about everything. .we spent feom 7-11 just checking stuff..im thinking i got paint on the crank sensor or cam sensors. .heading down now to work on it AGAIN

 

[4pointslow]

Painted sensors/reluctor wheels might cause a loss of signal/RPM reading.
Also, See if you still have fuel pressure, if not maybe check to see if you tripped the fuel pump inertia switch?

Spark, Correct Air Fuel mixture, and Compression are what's needed, just got to figure out which is missing.

If no rpm signal, you will have the 2 second prime of the fuel pump and then it shuts off until the PCM see's the rpm signal (from crankshaft sensor).
Turn the key on and off a bunch of times and see if it builds fuel pressure? (give it a few seconds in between off and on).

 

[4pointslow]

Also, please say you did install the crank sensor tone ring behind the timing cover. (with the teeth facing out towards you).

Or is it on the crank pulley on your engine?

 

[jd4242]

Painted sensors/reluctor wheels might cause a loss of signal/RPM reading.
Also, See if you still have fuel pressure, if not maybe check to see if you tripped the fuel pump inertia switch?

Spark, Correct Air Fuel mixture, and Compression are what's needed, just got to figure out which is missing.

If no rpm signal, you will have the 2 second prime of the fuel pump and then it shuts off until the PCM see's the rpm signal (from crankshaft sensor).
Turn the key on and off a bunch of times and see if it builds fuel pressure? (give it a few seconds in between off and on).

I do have fuel psi..it ran like it wasnt getting fuel then stalled..i released some air from the fuel rail..

Checked the inertia switch also.

The wheel is definitely on and its not painted at all..i did make the mistake of not tapping or removing the crank senaor and cam sensors when i painted the cover.thats first thing im checking..

Could the pats or alarm prevent it from starting?? The battery has been removed for 3 weeks

 

[jd4242]

Also, please say you did install the crank sensor tone ring behind the timing cover. (with the teeth facing out towards you).

Or is it on the crank pulley on your engine?

View attachment 91917

Yes..i did forget it at first but on the last bolt of the cover i remembered..i did put it on with teeth out,it said ""front"" on it..

Also i read if backwards the teeth hit the block and shear off,making bad sounds...no bad sounds when it did start

 

[4pointslow]

If the PATS system fails it wont start, or if you have the wrong key.
The theft light should go out when you turn the key on, if it doesn't it usually means there is a problem and you would pull codes to see what was going on.

Just having the battery disconnected should not affect it.

 

[jd4242]

If the PATS system fails it wont start, or if you have the wrong key.
The theft light should go out when you turn the key on, if it doesn't it usually means there is a problem and you would pull codes to see what was going on.

Just having the battery disconnected should not affect it.

Im pretty sure it goes out when the key is in the ""on""..i dont have a way to pull codes without getting the truck running and driving it somewhere

 

[plasticseng]

For 18 dollars, one of these will save you a lot of trips to get codes checked:

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL301-...&sr=1-1&refinements=p_4:Autel,p_36:1253493011

 

[jd4242]

I bought a sct x3 on ebay but the guy emails me a day later saying he can't find it

This is my first OBD2 so never needed one before

 

[4pointslow]

Don't get another X3, go with an X4.
LiveLink Gen2 will not work with the old X3's. Live Link 6.5 has not been updated or supported for a couple of years now.
I have a couple of each, the X4 is way better now.
Ron Caster had some for sale, check with him for a price.

Again, the X4 is way better cant even begin to describe it.

 

[jd4242]

I have exhausted everything on the vehicle but the ecu..

Its getting spark but appears to be getting wayy to much fuel. .plugs are SOAKED..fuel pressure is about 35 lbs..even replaced the sensor on rail..i thought it should be upwards of 50+ for a returnless system. ..

We cleaned plugs and unplugged the injectors, then sprayed starter fluid in it and it ran for 5 seconds. .

All senors check good..even replaced the $115 sensor on the rail..

NOOOO CODES..

Any input or anyone want to buy a avi??