2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

[willzilla]

How old is the cam synchronizer(dist.)? That sound like those when they get old, the bushing in it will squeak, and the fix can be just a few drops of oil down under the sensor(to the shaft).

Thank you! Actually read that as a possible issue earlier today and just found this video...



And that definitely sounds like what I'm hearing lol.

I'll try to oil it this week when weather a bit better and I have some time and hope for the best. If the synchro is actually bad how hard are they to replace? Need retimed or can I just pull it out and swap? Lol.

Thanks!

 

[CDW6212R]

It takes a little work to remove the coil packs to get down to it, plus the TB bracket etc, that have to be loose or off. It's easier to remove the belt first and double check that it's not the front pulleys etc. I did my synchro because I had a new one ready anyway, most people just oil the old one and wait for later to do a replacement.

The synchro has to be adjusted with the simple tool, that's a two minute job at most to set it and tighten the 1/2" bolt. R&Ring the unit is tricky, exactly like any distributor. There is a decent likelihood of getting it installed off one tooth, that is very easy to do(most people do that). So if you replace the synchro, do it slow, don't be in any rush to have it done.

The cam gear has a different number of teeth than the oil pump shaft has sides(six). It's easy to get the dist/synchro down into the cam gear fine, but the oil pump shaft not line up with the pump hole(six sides). It's a delicate thing to do, go slow and "feel" the way in. If it doesn't go easily, then you have to carefully turn the crank just a little one way or the other. Don't make big movements of the dist/crank, just a little at a time, checking to see if the synchro will go back in smoothly. That's the trick, and few people get it right every time.

I got mine back in fairly quickly, I hadn't moved any parts much at all from when I gently lifted the old one out. I noted the orientation of how the synchro body and sensor were pointing as I removed them, and duplicated that to install the new one. That's the trick, and few people get it right every time.

 

[willzilla]

Thanks for the info! Will go with the oil route and hope it works and works for a very long time lol.

After that issue is taken care of the plan is (making a bit of a list here so I remember what I need to do lol):

• Try and tighten up the camber bolts and eyeball align the truck good enough to limp it to a shop to get a full alignment.
• Replace brake rotors and pads... Thinking of going with the Centric Premium Brake rotors (around $130) & Hawk HPS Performance brake pads (around $120). Same setup I have on my SVTFocus and they seem pretty good combo.
• Troubleshoot my old HIDs... Seemed passenger side HID was flicking and then went out lol. Will redo the wiring and if that doesn't fix it will end up just putting a new HID package in to replace them all (they are old and had been having issues since before I took the car offline lol).
• Clean up engine bay wiring (a bit crazy at the moment).
• Massive deep cleaning of the truck inside and out (including engine bay).
• Charge the AC and hope it's good after sitting uncharged since replacing almost all of it lol.
• Replace cooling system water with coolant.
• Troubleshoot slow rear door locks (sometimes they don't fully lock or unlock on key press).
• Pull door panels off and clean out the inside... Pretty sure I have old wasp nest remains in one of them lol.
• Replace windshield (cracked badly).
• New front wipers (they are almost disintegrated lol).
• I believe the wiper fluid setup isn't working from what I vaguely recall. I put a new motor in and some of the tubing but somewhat remember nothing working.
• Relocate wideband sensor up closer to the engine for more accurate readings.
• And more stuff I'm sure I have forgotten or will run into while trying to get the truck back on the road again LOL (to be updated as I find out what else needs done)...

 

[CDW6212R]

I just ordered pads for my truck, not wanting to just swap used parts into it for work use. I got the best EBC pads they have now, series 7000/6000 front and back, from AutoZone it was about $145 plus tax, they had a 20% off deal.

BTW, I got a good look at the stock rear rotors versus the three later OEM 11.6" rotors, of the Cobra, 2011 Ranger, and 03-10 Crown Vics. I wasn't very impressed, the diameter is only about 3/8" different. I like the vented rotor, and that will be good enough for the rear of my 99 mail truck(what I bought them for). I'll chronicle how they go on, but it isn't something I'd recommend as a big upgrade.

 

[willzilla]

I just ordered pads for my truck, not wanting to just swap used parts into it for work use. I got the best EBC pads they have now, series 7000/6000 front and back, from AutoZone it was about $145 plus tax, they had a 20% off deal.

BTW, I got a good look at the stock rear rotors versus the three later OEM 11.6" rotors, of the Cobra, 2011 Ranger, and 03-10 Crown Vics. I wasn't very impressed, the diameter is only about 3/8" different. I like the vented rotor, and that will be good enough for the rear of my 99 mail truck(what I bought them for). I'll chronicle how they go on, but it isn't something I'd recommend as a big upgrade.

Do the bigger rotors (though not much bigger) simply install without modification or is something special need be done to put them on compared to the stock size ones?

I have PowerSlot cross drilled and slotted rotors on now but after years of sitting they look like PowerRust haha.

 

[CDW6212R]

They all do require the matching backing plate etc, which has the parking brake parts on it, and the parking cables most likely. I was needing new brakes anyway, and another thread about the Ranger 2011 brakes made me dig out the old parts, and buy the new rotors/pads.

It's not worth it unless you had a special need like my work truck, or much heavier wheels/tires etc. I'll probably put them on my 91 Lincoln also, given those rear calipers are prone to sticking/binding, and kind of rare.

You mention rusty looking, my mail truck in my garage hasn't been driven in over five years. But the rear calipers were used once from the last brake job, and those are cryogenically treated. They look like rusty hell now, but I'll take them and have them turned to reuse on my Mercury next.

With all the changes we make, you need to keep a good records book of non stock parts, fro future maintenance.

 

[willzilla]

They all do require the matching backing plate etc, which has the parking brake parts on it, and the parking cables most likely. I was needing new brakes anyway, and another thread about the Ranger 2011 brakes made me dig out the old parts, and buy the new rotors/pads.

It's not worth it unless you had a special need like my work truck, or much heavier wheels/tires etc. I'll probably put them on my 91 Lincoln also, given those rear calipers are prone to sticking/binding, and kind of rare.

You mention rusty looking, my mail truck in my garage hasn't been driven in over five years. But the rear calipers were used once from the last brake job, and those are cryogenically treated. They look like rusty hell now, but I'll take them and have them turned to reuse on my Mercury next.

With all the changes we make, you need to keep a good records book of non stock parts, fro future maintenance.

Yeah... I'll be sticking with stock brakes If it was a simple swap the rotors and you gold then maybe, but.. I just want to get the truck on the road and I won't be auto-x'ing it so the stock size works for me lol. I do plan to put in some fresh fluid though!

I have mostly been tracking my modifications/changes in this thread but probably should do a full spreadsheet with dates the work was done to keep everything consolidated and easier to track!

 

[CDW6212R]

New brake fluid is a great idea anytime, smart.

 

[willzilla]

Got some more work done on the truck... Pulled the camshaft position sensor and it looked flat inside (no raised piece like what I saw in a youtube video for oiling the camshaft synchro)... What mine is looks like:

And what it looked like in the video:

Perhaps this was changed between years or something. Both show under my truck and engine for 2000 on Rockauto.

Dropped a little but of some oil into the gears or whatever and replaced the sensor and... Noise is still there. This only took a few minutes but was not the issue sadly.

Pulled the belt off and started the truck up and... No noise (even when I rev the truck)... So.. It seems it is something spun by the belt.. Sound is from the right side (facing the truck with drivers side to my right).

Maybe a/c compressor or power steering pulley?

 

[CDW6212R]

Well you are narrowing it down. Try the AC clutch bearing, spin them all by hand without the belt again, and see what feels odd. I hope it's not the PS pump, that's not a cheap replacement item.

 

[willzilla]

Well you are narrowing it down. Try the AC clutch bearing, spin them all by hand without the belt again, and see what feels odd. I hope it's not the PS pump, that's not a cheap replacement item.

I spun both by hand (and every pulley actually) and none made sound at the speed I was able to spin them... I did replace all of my AC system BUT the compressor (and I think they say you should replace compressor when you replace the system but I didn't replace my system because it went bad I did because I ended up ruining my condenser ripping out my radiator lol so I then replaced the dryer, condenser, and orifice filter all together. AC still has not been filled (and has remained off at all times). Is there a good way to narrow sound down more effectively? Maybe a doctor scope thing? Lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, a stethoscope is a good tool, parts stores should have some version, and a long screw driver can work for loud enough noises.

Do you have the AC clutch disconnected, since it will run in all positions except VENT and OFF?

 

[willzilla]

Just found this video Googling around for ticking sound and explorer...



That sounds a LOT like my sound... Hmmm.

 

[willzilla]

Yes, a stethoscope is a good tool, parts stores should have some version, and a long screw driver can work for loud enough noises.

Do you have the AC clutch disconnected, since it will run in all positions except VENT and OFF?

I'm not sure... AC has just been in the OFF position since I put the truck up on stands... Assuming that is correct being the system had not been charged.

 

[CDW6212R]

The sound in that video is the AC clutch engaging, which is a clicking noise.

If there isn't any freon from parts being changed, the AC compressor shouldn't come on, the low pressure switch will keep it from running. If some freon has been added, then the compressor might run occasionally. Watch the gauge in that video, when the compressor runs it makes the pressure drop, until the low pressure switch cuts it off. When it's not engaged then the pressure inside equalizes, until it's high enough to have the pressure switch engage it again.

You can watch the AC clutch and see it engage, that's when electricity is allowed to reach it, and it runs the compressor.

 

[Dono]

Unplug the compressor.
If the ac needs to be charged, you shouldn't allow the compressor to run.

Looking at the gauge cycling, it definitely needs some freon of some kind. I just did mine with red-tek. No complaints. You don't need a license to use it, and its environmentally friendlier so you can just dump it to atmosphere if you need get that stupid hard ac line out of the way.

btw, its fantastic to see you finally have your exploder running. I had given up hope.

 

[willzilla]

Sorry for the confusion on the previous posts... The VIMEO video is not my truck... I just found that googling around for sounds like mine and that was a video that sounded similar (not the clicking of the clutch engaging and disengaging but the constant sound between the clicks).

I did not know that I could unplug the compressor... Oops. Did I damage something having it plugged in for the hour or so it has ran (total time) while AC was off? :-/

I will unplug the compressor (if I can find the plug lol) after work today!

I have a scope coming in the mail tomorrow that I will also use to scope around for sounds/leaks/etc. Also ordered up some cheap MAX brakes (from Canada) that will be here in a couple weeks. $150 for all the rotors and pads and all the reviews I could find they all were pretty good. Kind of weird looking, all black. Plan to also paint the calipers as they look like crap (maybe same blue color I did the 5.0 plate on the top of the engine).

I have hopes of getting the truck back on the road again as well!! Plus... Wife told me to sell it if it isn't on the road as she is tired of seeing it taking up part of the driveway lol.

I took off the front wheels last night and cleaned up a ton of sitting gunk like webs and a bird nest inside the front bumper lol. Camber bolts still are not tightened but I may just have it towed the cpl miles to the local alignment shop and let them torque down whatever needs tightened as I would need it aligned anyways and a cpl mile tow shouldn't cost a fortune I would think.

 

[Dono]

Don't worry about the compressor being damaged. I'm sure its ok.
The plug is right on top of the compressor, you can't miss it.

Then you don't have to worry about it coming on. It might even help you troubleshoot.

 

[willzilla]

Don't worry about the compressor being damaged. I'm sure its ok.
The plug is right on top of the compressor, you can't miss it.

Then you don't have to worry about it coming on. It might even help you troubleshoot.

Awesome. That will help narrow things down Thanks!

 

[willzilla]

Not related to my Xploder but... My wife just sent me a message that the AC (ugh, AC again lol) in her 2010 e-350 5.4L v8 has been acting up for.. A couple years. The AC would not blow ANY air in the front but back was fine... Would turn the knob off and on a few times and it would work fine.. It would do this occasionally every few weeks or so. Today... She says the AC in the front is not blowing any air at all (back still fine). Does this sound like perhaps the heating/air control head unit (with the knobs and what not on it) itself is perhaps bad (the knob or some such within it that the knob adjusts internally)? Also maybe the blower motor (looks like there is a sep unit for the front and back?) or the blower motor resistor perhaps..