5.0 water pump

[ajw1275]

How hard is it to replace the water pump on a 1999 5.0? My water pump has a leak and want to replace it myself because everywhere wants an arm and a leg just to replace and the local ford dealer said they wouldn't touch it.

 

[imp]

How hard is it to replace the water pump on a 1999 5.0? My water pump has a leak and want to replace it myself because everywhere wants an arm and a leg just to replace and the local ford dealer said they wouldn't touch it.

Are you kidding? WTH kind of dealership is that? I'd report that one to Ford.

Straightforward job, like most V-8 OHV waterpumps. If you've never done one, best be pretty mechanically-inclined, or at least experienced with some kind of machinery. Maybe the most difficult part of the job is removal of the fan and clutch. Clutch is screwed onto the pump shaft, requiring a long, thin, open-end wrench with a pretty-large opening. I made my own, but they are buyable in various levels of quality (been discussed elsewhere), and some parts stores loan them out, maybe even free, if you buy the pump there.

Now, are you certain the pump is the leak source? Bypass hose, thermostat housing, up above the pump, often leak small amount, runs down over pump. Look for dryness up top, leakage around center of pump, shaft of which is hidden by the belt pulley.

How much is an arm and a leg, anyway? imp

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s not bad. Unless the bolts break off, which they commonly due. That’s why Ford won’t touch it. If you have trouble with the bolts, often the timing chain cover gets disturbed enough to start leaking after.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

It’s not bad. Unless the bolts break off, which they commonly due. That’s why Ford won’t touch it. If you have trouble with the bolts, often the timing chain cover gets disturbed enough to start leaking after.

was going to say the same thing. there are four bolts that pass threw the cover that are always surrounded by coolant. if they snap, it becomes a big hassle. however, if you work them back and fourth slowly, you can get lucky and get them out. also you need to watch what bolts come out of what holes. there are different lengths for different holes. best way to avoid mixing them up is to trace the gasket onto card board, and when you pull one bolt out, put it into the traced pattern thats on the card board and you wont mix them up

 

[CDW6212R]

It’s not bad. Unless the bolts break off, which they commonly due. That’s why Ford won’t touch it. If you have trouble with the bolts, often the timing chain cover gets disturbed enough to start leaking after.

Ditto, I just went at mine last week, and stopped when I broke the first WP bolt. I was doing the radiator due to a worsening leak, but I wanted to replace everything, down to the timing chain. When I got to the WP bolts, I had sprayed them several times with Kroil, and slowly went at each bolt just to test how tight they felt. Several were letting go, but at least three felt unmoved. I sprayed them again, and gently turned each to the right(tighten) just a hair. Then the first one I turned was hard but it wasn't clear if it was letting go or twisting. I went back and forth a couple of times, and at about half a turn out, it broke the head off. That was the left long bolt(bottom of two of WP). I stopped and sighed, and then carefully tightened the others to begin putting mine back together. I didn't have time to fight with broken bolts that day, my truck is my work truck, needed it the next day.

I had read someone suggest an idea they heard of, they used a battery and jumper cables to run current through each WP bolt, for a few seconds. I didn't try that, I would like to hear more about the idea first.

The fan clutch tools are available to rent, O'Reilly's has the proper sizes. Some store had a kit with sizes that don't work for the 302 Explorers. I think the sizes needed are 38mm and 76mm.

 

[delexploder]

Just let them break , order a new timing cover just in case , get the cover off and the bolts usually will come out of the block pretty easy , like with your fingers
, its the aluminum corroding that jams the bolts , i just replace them with stainless from Ace hardware and use neversieze

 

[CDW6212R]

Having new bolts to replace them would be nice, Ford obsoleted them a long time ago. I have a couple of ARP bolt sets I was going to try to match lengths with, maybe next time. Getting an extra timing cover is a good idea too, I had one until I let a friend buy my extra Explorer engine.

 

[koda2000]

This is one job I'm happy to farm out to a mechanic buddy of mine, who will do the job for $125 as ling as I supply the W/P and antifreeze.

Worst case scenario is that you break bolts and ruin the timing cover. 50/50 chance that it will be a miserable job. If the bolts come loose your golden, otherwise plan on a lot of swearing.

BTW - Many times the 5.0L will leak from the front of the engine because the timing cover gasket fails around the water ports. I had this happen on our 2000 Mountaineer. Someone here suggested I try a bottle of K-Seal. As it was in the middle of winter I decided to try it. Hasn't leaked a drop since in going on 4 years.

 

[CDW6212R]

The K-seal is a good product for many leaks, I had a slight wetness along my timing cover sides. The radiator plastic tanks didn't stop for good, the leak finally grew last month, a day before replacing it the leaking was bad.

If the leak is from the WP seal, then you have to replace the pump for sure. Try to see if there is any leaking from the WP weep holes, the main one is under the WP shaft.

 

[imp]

It’s not bad. Unless the bolts break off, which they commonly due. That’s why Ford won’t touch it. If you have trouble with the bolts, often the timing chain cover gets disturbed enough to start leaking after.

@Mbrooks420
For some reason, I've been lucky enough to never have experienced this broken bolt syndrome. I'll guess I've torn apart at least 20 SB Fords, starting with 260, and 289s, 302s, 5.0s. (Watch what'll happen on the next one!). imp