Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[massacre]

I have done tons of Ford axle seals over the years. Only broke the locking bolt once lol.
i had to remove 4 Ford differentials this year in my garage. I can still smell the gear oil hahaha
As long as the locking bolt comes out with no issues, all of the center pins have slid out easily, with the exception of 1.
The one that did not come out easy was a 1991 Mustang 8.8” that I bought at the junkyard. The gear oil was horrid so prob never changed and I found some pieces/debris in the pumpkin so I know that car was beat on.
i stripped the entire rear and installed all new parts and diff.
as was said I would leave the S spring in place if possible.
On mine, I used a dead blow hammer and a socket roughly the same size as the center pin to drive the pin toward the front of the car. Once you can drive it forward 1/4-1/2” then you can rotate the diff 180 degrees so that the part you drove forward, is now facing backward. Then I put a rag on the pin that was sticking out, and put some vise grips on it and was able to wiggle it out that way.
Keep in mind that I was replacing my entire diff with a new one (new pin) so I was not really concerned about the vise grips possibly chewing up the pin for reinstallation. If that happens I bet you could file the end smooth and be fine.

 

[Scotsman01]

Thanks for your info. The old diff oil was putrid and debris may also be the cause for my centre pin stuck.
The overall advice has been great and keep them coming, information is knowledge.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have done tons of Ford axle seals over the years. Only broke the locking bolt once lol.
i had to remove 4 Ford differentials this year in my garage. I can still smell the gear oil hahaha
As long as the locking bolt comes out with no issues, all of the center pins have slid out easily, with the exception of 1.
The one that did not come out easy was a 1991 Mustang 8.8” that I bought at the junkyard. The gear oil was horrid so prob never changed and I found some pieces/debris in the pumpkin so I know that car was beat on.
i stripped the entire rear and installed all new parts and diff.
as was said I would leave the S spring in place if possible.
On mine, I used a dead blow hammer and a socket roughly the same size as the center pin to drive the pin toward the front of the car. Once you can drive it forward 1/4-1/2” then you can rotate the diff 180 degrees so that the part you drove forward, is now facing backward. Then I put a rag on the pin that was sticking out, and put some vise grips on it and was able to wiggle it out that way.
Keep in mind that I was replacing my entire diff with a new one (new pin) so I was not really concerned about the vise grips possibly chewing up the pin for reinstallation. If that happens I bet you could file the end smooth and be fine.

Well said, that one detail hadn't been mentioned before; "...drive the pin toward the front of the car. Once you can drive it forward 1/4-1/2” then you can rotate the diff 180 degrees so that the part you drove forward, is now facing backward. Then I put a rag on the pin that was sticking out, and put some vise grips on it and was able to wiggle it out that way...."

The center pin is usually loose enough to move by hand, spin etc. But I too have had one pin not be loose at all, I had to hammer it hard to get it to move at all.

Do as massacre said, carefully tap it inward from the back, but only 3/8"-1/2", the whole differential has to be able to rotate around so the center pin is then pointing rearward. You should be able to grab it by Visegrips etc, and work it out. Hopefully it just has a small burr on it from someone prior clamping down on it, and they didn't file it down properly. As we said, it should spin and slide easily in all directions.

You don't need to remove anything else outside of the diff.

 

[1991 sploder]

Make sure u are using a neodymium magnet their the strong ones.

 

[Scotsman01]

Thanks for all the suggestions, an amateur mechanic like me would be lost without them. The car was not popular making parts very scarce. I will try to get the magnet

 

[1991 sploder]

Yea it won't come out with a fridge magnet.... Even better get one of those magnets on a stick for getting bolts out of tight spots.

 

[CDW6212R]

Make sure u are using a neodymium magnet their the strong ones.

If the cross pin was normal and not stuck, a magnet would be a great tool to save a few minutes of time. I think this time the pin is hurt slightly, and a magnet won't be strong enough to pull it.

I'd tap on the end of the pin with a socket extension and hammer. If it moves without too much hammer force, tap it in about 3/8" or so. Once you get it to move a little, you should have it(spin the diff, and pull the pin out).

 

[1991 sploder]

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, I have one of those small ones, for just as you said, digging out small bolts and parts that fall down in the engine bay etc.

These days with so many cheap tools, you want to have quite a few of those kinds of tool sets, the odd rarely needed tools, but having extra kinds is good.

 

[Scotsman01]

If the cross pin was normal and not stuck, a magnet would be a great tool to save a few minutes of time. I think this time the pin is hurt slightly, and a magnet won't be strong enough to pull it.

I'd tap on the end of the pin with a socket extension and hammer. If it moves without too much hammer force, tap it in about 3/8" or so. Once you get it to move a little, you should have it(spin the diff, and pull the pin out).

Yes I agree, but I have ordered the magnet for ease of pulling the clips which I hope will be accessible to me

 

[Scotsman01]

Yeah, I have one of those small ones, for just as you said, digging out small bolts and parts that fall down in the engine bay etc.

These days with so many cheap tools, you want to have quite a few of those kinds of tool sets, the odd rarely needed tools, but having extra kinds is good.

Agree , I also have the small one, but never enough tools, just small tool boxes

 

[CDW6212R]

The C-clips are also easy to get out. You just rotate them until the opening is to the rear, and push them forward with a screw driver. They fall to the bottom and you use a finger to fish them out. There is an o-ring on the axles originally there where the c-clips go, the o-rings aren't critical to have, but they kind of hold onto the c-clips.

 

[Scotsman01]

The C-clips are also easy to get out. You just rotate them until the opening is to the rear, and push them forward with a screw driver. They fall to the bottom and you use a finger to fish them out. There is an o-ring on the axles originally there where the c-clips go, the o-rings aren't critical to have, but they kind of hold onto the c-clips.

Easy is not a word I have used lately, but I'm still smiling

 

[CDW6212R]

I understand, it's all "interesting" for people not familiar with a lot of this car stuff. I try to relate what is best for a given step, versus just say follow a shop manual. I never used manuals, I learned by doing it all. I began with a riding mower that was a basket case(blown engine, no brakes(no brake parts except for pedal and long rod)). I just took things apart and worked with it, over years you get the hand of things.

The c-clips don't come out without the center pin out first, so the axles can move inboard about a 1/4", that reveals the c-clips so that they easily push out.

 

[Scotsman01]

SUCCESS SUCCESS !!
using sledge and screwdriver the center pin just popped out
Using "G" clamp made the c clip easy with multigrips.
Left shaft slid out, was covered with 1/4 inch of muck had to scrape it off. Now definitely have to do other side.
The shaft has a bearing grove have taken some photos but not sure of process how to add them for comments.
Again thanks to you all, would not be this far without you

 

[1991 sploder]

 

[Scotsman01]

Yes, I am having a 15 yo scotch to celebrate but how do I attach my axle photos??

 

[1991 sploder]

The little button that looks like a sunrise over mountains.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, you got it done, and the tiny locking bolt didn't break. That one bolt is the worst part of the job, it's simple and comes out most times, but the one where it breaks, that you don't want to think about.

Do you have access to rental tools? You will want to replace the axle bearings, and the special tool kit is a must. Tapping the new bearings in can be interesting, go slow with those, and be sure to use a tool to hammer it in that is close in size. Most of us have a really cheap big 3/4" drive socket set that is great for bearing installation.

 

[Scotsman01]

Of all times for my router to break down, I am left to communicate thru my smart phone cannot drop my photos
Will continue with my other axle, it must be in the same poor condition. Before that I will try to smooth the small indents on centre pin to avoid it jamming again and hold the gears in place. The whole diff will have to be stripped to make sure all the gunk is out, will get paint markers to ensure correct reinstall.