Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[1991 sploder]

Yea out here alot of people let go of computers and switching to phones.

 

[1991 sploder]

The pin and bolt are supposed to be replaced but many people have re used them with no problem...depends on condition to me that soft steel pin should look new and the bolt is not torque to yield. Again so nobody spears me the pin and bolt should be replaced. Its up to you that pin doesn't put down the power though.

 

[1991 sploder]

Did u measure the run out.... It could blow another seal.

 

[Scotsman01]

Did u measure the run out.... It could blow another seal.

I don't know what you mean. Remember I am first quality amateur at this

 

[Scotsman01]

The thickness of the junk I shaved of the axle give me no confidence the diff is in any condition to be assembled without everything being pulled out and cleaned, including the two clutches

 

[Gary Crist]

If the axles look like this....

BEARING SAVER

stangler.com

Here is what you might think of next.
Used axles in the JY are usually "badish" too.

Glad to see the trick work for you....

 

[410Fortune]

MAKE SURE THE AXLE VENT IS CLEAR AND IT AN BREATHE
if the axle vent is plugged then when the fluid heats up and expands the air on top of it cannot breathe through the axle case the oil will force its way past the wheel seals and pinion seal = leaks
So the vent tube and vent must be CLEAR and able to breath when you put it all back together
Any time there is a leaky seal, the vent line must be checked... and it is often overlooked
These 8.8 axles the vent is already very small........it does not take much to plug it up

 

[CDW6212R]

The diff/chunk is the strongest set of parts there, but filthy grease is a sign it should be inspected carefully. The gears should not have any noticeable wear, really sharp edges etc. The bearings in it are not easy to check, if the fluid and gears look good then you usually figure the bearings are okay. You don't want to have to work on the center chunk at all, look it over really closely, post some pictures if you want to.

You can clean it all with brake cleaner or engine degreaser too before brake cleaner, if it's that nasty. Try not to blast much cleaner to the very front, you don't want to hurt the rubber seal up there, or get much up into the pinion bearing. Spray some lubricant up to the front area that you get any cleaner to, that will displace the cleaning material, something like PB Blaster is thin and will run down to the bottom where you clean it out.

If the axles have a groove or much wear on the bearing surface, it's often better to buy a new axle. They run(or used to) about $75 for used, and over $125 for new. I've bought a couple of new pairs for about $250 a pair, aftermarket brands. With good clean fluid, the axles should last 10-20 years easily.

 

[1991 sploder]

Run out...its like the bend of the gears it can be measured when the diff is fully assembled or u can measure ring gear with it fully disassembled...no bashing anyone.... But I would say it's a major cause of seal failure like that. With no runout u could jump it 100x and do donuts no problem... Excessive runout blow another seal within 20k ford makes the best gears just measure it afterwards to get an idea of where its at... A micrometer on every tooth might maybe work but it would have to be a damm good one.

 

[1991 sploder]

Kinda like what cdw suggests u need to check the axle on that side.... Idk if it is bent another maor cause also that vent is a nightmare in deep water all bets are off.

 

[1991 sploder]

The diff/chunk is the strongest set of parts there, but filthy grease is a sign it should be inspected carefully.

Good it's like the strongest part on the whole truck.

 

[Scotsman01]

If the axles look like this....

BEARING SAVER

stangler.com

Here is what you might think of next.
Used axles in the JY are usually "badish" too.

Glad to see the trick work for you....

Right in the middle of this my router decided to fail and as I'm a one finger on the phone, everything takes so much longer. One axle is perfect the other has a bearing grove in it (where the seal leaked) will check out:
1. New axle
2 bearing saver
Thanks for the photo

 

[1991 sploder]

Bearing grooves red flag... Unfortunately that axle shaft is no good...

 

[1991 sploder]

U can measure the groove also very very fine sanding may fix it needs to be idk within like less than a half a mm of the shaft or probably have problems

 

[Scotsman01]

MAKE SURE THE AXLE VENT IS CLEAR AND IT AN BREATHE
if the axle vent is plugged then when the fluid heats up and expands the air on top of it cannot breathe through the axle case the oil will force its way past the wheel seals and pinion seal = leaks
So the vent tube and vent must be CLEAR and able to breath when you put it all back together
Any time there is a leaky seal, the vent line must be checked... and it is often overlooked
These 8.8 axles the vent is already very small........it does not take much to plug it up

Ignorance is not bliss, seems important so can you give me the location so I can look at it. Sorry, my ignorance is showing again.

Run out...its like the bend of the gears it can be measured when the diff is fully assembled or u can measure ring gear with it fully disassembled...no bashing anyone.... But I would say it's a major cause of seal failure like that. With no runout u could jump it 100x and do donuts no problem... Excessive runout blow another seal within 20k ford makes the best gears just measure it afterwards to get an idea of where its at... A micrometer on every tooth might maybe work but it would have to be a damm good one.

Sorry 1991 Sploder, you have completely lost me. I was going to follow the video you sent me as the cleanliness of the gears/clutch plates have to be excessively dirty.
Now I'm too **** scared to touch them, what should I do?

 

[Scotsman01]

U can measure the groove also very very fine sanding may fix it needs to be idk within like less than a half a mm of the shaft or probably have problems

I can see and feel it with my nails, I have not extracted the oil seal/ bearing yet. I do not have measuring equipment

 

[1991 sploder]

Lol just throw it all back together these differentials are like amazing the breather is the tube coming from the center out the top don't measure- clean do any extra just replace that seal and ur goodto go...I really like the nail measurement but sounds like just clean that up maybe 1/2mm would reAlly
..really feel it/ see it if it. Keep in mind it's probably most likely bent axle could last though.

 

[1991 sploder]

At e ven 1/3 of a mm I would be like

 

[1991 sploder]

Ur nail can probably do less than 1/10mm I'm not there but my vote says throw it back together.

 

[CDW6212R]

A used axle with no groove at the bearing surface, but slight pitting of the surface, that's just over the limit of being worth saving. If there is any groove of any depth there, scrap the axle. A groove is rough for the bearings and they wear faster, it kills the bearing.

Any groove of noticeable depth creates a leak at the seal, because the axle is no longer centered in the housing and seal. Look at the gap of the axle seal before you ever pull an axle, that gap often hints at a groove in that axle.