Complete stereo system install | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Complete stereo system install

BrockLanders

Member
Joined
October 13, 2021
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
City, State
Conroe
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 limited
I just wanted to make a thread about my install, when I was in the planning stage I couldn't find anything on the internet for ideas and insight. This is a simple aftermarket replacement of the complete system, I'll try and remember as much as I can, if anyone has questions or comments I'd be happy to help. I have a 2010 limited without navigation so the factory system left a little to be desired, not the worst I've had but lacking. I started with an android auto Pioneer head unit, I didn't use any of the factory wiring, the sync system had nothing that I used. I wired the radio straight to the battery with a toggle in the ign wire for when I leave the car sitting for a few days. I also put a toggle on the parking brake wire of the head unit and grounded it in the driver's side kick panel. I put both toggles on the panel under the steering wheel.

20210712_101859.jpg 20210712_101418.jpg 20211021_080556.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I used Infinity kappa 5.25 components in the front and 5x7 two ways in the rear doors. I wanted the tweeters as close to the drivers as possible so I put them forward facing on the door panels. This worked out well because they are soft dome which has a smooth sound and great dispersion since they are basically in your face. My only option was to surface mount them, there just wasn't enough room to flush them. I used foam speaker baffles which greatly helps with damping vibrations in the doors, there's not much else to mention here. I will be repainting the tweeters with the paint I used for the sub boxes, it matches much better.

20210712_101446.jpg
 






Why didn't you use oem power and ground wires?
 






For amps I went with Rockford Fosgate punch series, I can't say enough about them, they are clean and powerful. I used NVX wires, fuse blocks and accessories they are the best priced high quality wires I could find in my countless hours of internet searching. When I did the big three I couldn't get to the engine block ground, so I ran 0 gauge from the alternator mount to the battery and left all stock grounds in place. I ran my power wire through the fire wall on the drivers side where the factory wires go through, I used an awl to poke a hole and pushed a small pvc pipe with some silicone grease, then fished the wire through. I mounted the amps where the sub used to be, there is a ton of room.

20211013_063913.jpg 20211013_063804.jpg 20211019_163156.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20211013_063913.jpg
    20211013_063913.jpg
    157.5 KB · Views: 74
  • 20211013_063804.jpg
    20211013_063804.jpg
    114.3 KB · Views: 75












I wanted to hear the entire spectrum of sound but I didn't want to rattle my trunk so I went with eight inch Kappa subs. I built separate boxes and put post terminals in the cargo panel so I could remove one or both when I need to use the cargo area. As the subs sit my 3rd row is completely functional.
Also I am not a carpenter this was my first attempt at building sub boxes, they did not turn out perfect.

20211021_103326.jpg 20211021_103242.jpg 20211020_102509.jpg
 






Back
Top