So heres the plan. Off-road dd | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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So heres the plan. Off-road dd

As far as the tune, if the ecu has enough wiggle room then cool. At least with the foxbodys, you would normally be ok until a cam swap...One thing though with where we live is the cats pose a big fire danger in summer. So being able to at least turn off the rear o2 would be nice. The cast manifolds...thumbs down. I've read a bunch of exhaust threads, and think with headers, 2.25 dual in/out should work.
hm same with these usually the small bolt ons it wont make a difference, if you do a cam swap then yes it may need tune maybe. but it doesnt seem you are? and oh i see. yeah something like that, if not 2.5 rither or imo
 



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Prob no cam...One thing I remembered. What about mil eliminators?
 






I have the body, minus the front clip, of a 4-door ‘99 Mountaineer that was the donor for my 5.0 Ranger. NO running gear. All sheet metal behind the front clip is pretty good, and 60 miles from the Wash. D.C. area. Hate to see it go to crusher if someone could use it. Can load on your trailer.
 






Prob no cam...One thing I remembered. What about mil eliminators?
not too sure on these, i know they exist? what about them? sorry. what would they be used for?
I have the body, minus the front clip, of a 4-door ‘99 Mountaineer that was the donor for my 5.0 Ranger. NO running gear. All sheet metal behind the front clip is pretty good, and 60 miles from the Wash. D.C. area. Hate to see it go to crusher if someone could use it. Can load on your trailer.
can put that in the FSTW section since this guy is in washington state not DC
 






He’s talking about 02 sensor cheaters you can remove the cats and downstream sensors and use these to fool the computer into thinking the downstream sensors still exist. Not really needed imo, with hollow cat converters I only get a catalyst monitor code about twice a year if I blip the throttle and let off too quickly. I have all 4 02 sensors but the catalyst inside my primaries fell out so they are hollow.
You can still find the “cheaters” on eBay I have no experience with them
 






Yes. Wa state. And also what 410fortune said.
@410Fortune. If that's the case, I may just do that...If a code for the cat pops up, would it be clearable without some sort of tuner/scanner? (Disconnect batt)
Side note: Changed the belt, got the wipers spraying, and got the tach working today.
Also, is pats tied into the radio at all?
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
 






Yes. Wa state. And also what 410fortune said.
@410Fortune. If that's the case, I may just do that...If a code for the cat pops up, would it be clearable without some sort of tuner/scanner? (Disconnect batt)
Side note: Changed the belt, got the wipers spraying, and got the tach working today.
Also, is pats tied into the radio at all?
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
PATS shouldn’t have anything to do with the radio.

If you’re asking because the display doesn’t light up, that’s a common, unrelated failure.
 






pats and radio not linked
 






Just making sure...
The face got ripped off at some point before we got the rig. I've got a parts rig I can grab one from then.
 






Code could be cleared with a scanner
 






^ok.

Swapped the radio. No display, and no rear door speakers, but am/fm work. Haven't tried cd yet...
 






Very common for the radio displays to go out
Not all head units are swapable some of these trucks have external amps and subwoofers and some do not
 






@410Fortune True and not true, you can still swap the head units, just you can't necessarily plug in everything. I swapped my Mach (factory external amp & sub) for the factory premium (non-sub) and it worked. The harnesses fit the plugs across all models, but not all models have all the harnesses. So the external amp & sub could be dead, or you could end up with an extra, unused port on the back of your head unit. But the supported functions will still work.
 






@410Fortune True and not true, you can still swap the head units, just you can't necessarily plug in everything. I swapped my Mach (factory external amp & sub) for the factory premium (non-sub) and it worked. The harnesses fit the plugs across all models, but not all models have all the harnesses. So the external amp & sub could be dead, or you could end up with an extra, unused port on the back of your head unit. But the supported functions will still work.
the sub wont plug into the prem (ok well itll plug in but 0 signal) and the mach lowers bass to the door speakers but prem does not
but some do not like the base to prem is a bigger issue. and the pre 98s had a different setup behind the radio so no it is hard to upgrade or do anything to make it work much. and the first gens are single din not double din too, so i imagine more difference there
 






@Fix4Dirt Fair, I didn't compare to pre-'98 models. True about the differences. My premium just has a plastic dummy port to hold the amp/sub harness, no pins. But the ones that plug into actual ports, work. I've tried it, ha ha.
 






With that much work involved I’d drop the stock setup as it’s quite lame.
 






Atoto double din for the win

I love my android head units
Big touch screen Bluetooth gps cameras can run apps under $300 they are awesome
 






I just nabbed a single din and kit from walmart, never had an issue, loved it. Especially having bluetooth finally was nice for playing my own music. The double dins are too much for me, but I do see their use, especially with the built in gps some have, would be handy

20211001_215447.jpg
 






My next double din will have the wireless Airplay, they’re coming towards the $300 range.
 



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My next double din will have the wireless Airplay, they’re coming towards the $300 range.
Too much for me, but more power to ya!
 






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