Murraymountain’s Lowered 95 Sport

[Murraymountain]

Starting my build thread here for my currents project. My 1995 Explorer Sport. I have quite a few questions to find answers for regarding the project but for now I figured I’d bring everyone up to speed. I bought this Explorer in July of this year for $400 with intentions of eventually 5.0 swapping it and putting a manual in it. That is the current plan but won’t be happening for a little while as my current engine and trans work perfectly fine. It had been sitting for some time but it fired up and I was able to drive it home. Had a terrible miss. Changed plugs and wires and it ran 1000 times better. At this point in the project I have done a full tune up, valve cover gaskets, injectors, intake gaskets, full LED swap inside and out, added a light bar, tinted the taillights and put new headlight housings on, new compressor accumulator and evaporator, new blower motor resistor, new front wheel bearings and wheel speed sensors, fixed my broken odometer, resealed the windshield, restored my roof rack (still deciding whether I want to put it back on or not), replaced the side skirts with skinnier ones, new hood tailgate and rear glass shocks, and a muffler delete.

Currently I am in the process of restoring my interior. I have it completely gutted right now. I have a few things to button up this weekend and then I’m on to recovering my headliner and adding starlights. Then I will start reinstalling the interior. Going to get new carpet and have my seats cleaned and a full new sound system. Also about to get window tint done and paint correction.


Where I found it:

Today^^

I’ll upload more pictures later when I can get to my computer.

 

[Josh P]

The 4.0 runs forever, just 5.0 it. Welcome to the forum.

 

[410Fortune]

The 4.0 runs forever, just 351 it. Welcome to the forum.

Fixed

Nice 95! Those 95s will run to 450k miles w oil changes it’s crazy

 

[Murraymountain]

PHOTO DUMP!!!

Charging AC to find leaks (there were many)

Windshield getting resealed after leaking like a broken pipe

Current state of my interior (finally starting on my headliner. Roof rack is done now but I think I might take it back off for the cleaner look)

Just went ahead and junked this one and got a nice new clean one.

Restored

Reinstalled and as of now I have ICE cold AC... Just in time for winter.

Full LED swap inside and out!

Tinted taillights. I'll probably have to redo it at some point.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand the massive pain of valve cover gaskets. Luckily I've done this job before so I knew exactly what I was getting myself into. I ended up putting brand new injectors in it too from KSM Motorsports. Just some 19lb ones like stock but hey new fresh parts.

All done. Ready to roll now.

That's where I'm at with it now. I am working on my headliner currently but really getting serious on looking into what my audio setup will be. Going to be needing plenty of opinions on that. That and also looking more heavily into what it's going to take to lower it to where I want it.

 

[Murraymountain]

So I am in the process of doing a torsion key flip (will be updating the thread with that later). I have a few questions.

A, the "pockets" on the frame the torsion keys sit in, should I grind out the inside edge of them so the key can sit flatter in the pocket since it's shaped differently on the side that's now going to be making contact with the frame?

And B, as far as making contact with the frame goes, there was like some kind of reinforced rubber between the key and the frame on each side. Should I cut up an old tire and put some rubber between the key and frame or just send it?

And lastly, while I'm messing with the suspension, is there anything I should do to reduce body roll/ increase handling? Or is that all more of a major modification?

 

[EB4X]

"what it's going to take to lower it to where I want it."

You're going in the wrong direction! ...it's 4WD !

 

[wollimann]

A: I would not grind the pocket out, the torsionkey and the "pocket" has the same half-round form.

B: The original torson keys had a cevlar-rubber mixture on it, because if there is nothin in between you will notice some clunk noise.

Normal rubber will not last for long, i decided to use heavy belt material and fixed it with two screws.

Also put some very thin stainless steel sheet between bar and key (front and rear) to reduce play.
So now clunking is fixed.

C: Body roll could be reduced with stronger leaf springs, stronger torsion bars, thicker sway bars and better shocks.
That's going on with a loss of comfort and a loss of some money.

 

[Murraymountain]

Thanks for the help! I think the first step will be upgraded sway bars. I would really like it to handle better and I I like that idea the best to start with along with me lowering it anyway. That being said, for the rear I am looking at an Addco 670 7/8 bar or the Hellwig 1 inch bar. The Addco is $175 and the Hellwig kit is $300. That's a big chunk of change especially with a $350 front bar. Do y'all think the extra $125 for the Hellwig bar would be worth it over the Addco?

For the front I am looking at the Addco 540. I've heard you can swap a front bar from a '98-'01 as they were better bars but I've also heard there's some modification and drilling involved in that swap. Do y'all think the Addco bar is any better than just swapping one from a '98? I don't have a problem dropping the money on both bars but if there's a cheaper way to achieve the same results I'd like to go that route. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything before I dropping $600-700 on just the sway bars.

 

[wollimann]

I am not versed with sway bar swapping, but i would prefer the Hellwig/Adco solution.
If these bars came with everything you need (bolts/bushings/...) you didn't spend a lot of time
and parts will fit.

Front sway bar -97 , 34 mm outer diameter, installed at the crossmember

98-2001, 32 mm outer diameter, installed at the frame.

In both cases you need inner threads, you have to rip off many parts to get there and
have to fabricate some special brakets with welded nuts on them.
Your decision, thumbs up!

 

[allmyEXes]

Welcome. I think I have been through Murphy NC.
Nice truck, nice shop. I have two low milage 4.0 OHV engines for sale if anyone seeing this is interested.
I quick scanned your thread. Are you lowering for the street or raising for the trail?
Were the "deer hoove" wheels stock on the '95s?
Also, how long is the light bar that you fit into the front bumper opening? It looks like a good fit.
Greg in north Alabama. So far north that I'm north of the Tennessee River.

 

[Murraymountain]

Welcome. I think I have been through Murphy NC.
Nice truck, nice shop. I have two low milage 4.0 OHV engines for sale if anyone seeing this is interested.
I quick scanned your thread. Are you lowering for the street or raising for the trail?
Were the "deer hoove" wheels stock on the '95s?
Also, how long is the light bar that you fit into the front bumper opening? It looks like a good fit.
Greg in north Alabama. So far north that I'm north of the Tennessee River.

I'm lowering it for the street, but also trying to retain 4WD. Eventual 5.0 and manual swap but that's not for the present moment.
Yes the "deer hoove" wheels were stock I am pretty sure. I've seen lots of Explorers and Rangers with them on them.
The light bar is a 20 inch. Was only $80 on amazon and came with a whole harness and fuse and switch and everything. Super easy to install and super bright.

 

[Murraymountain]

Okay, I've decided on my sway bars. I'm going with the Addco/Hellwig configuration when funds allow. I fear I have gotten deeper into the suspension hole now however.

I did some research and found I have D rated torsion bars and would like to swap A rated. That's easy enough and I will be hopefully finding some this weekend at the junkyard. Those stronger bars plus the sway bar ought to take care of the front end pretty good I feel especially after shocks.

I am wanting a 3 inch drop in the rear minimum, and have 3 inch blocks for it, but I am thinking ahead now and realizing this is a bad idea for a 302 with a manual that's making any sort of power. It becomes a weak link and I don't plan to do a V8 swap just to baby it, so I'd like to do this right the first time. I'd like to find new leaf springs that will give me the 3 inch drop (I can adjust from there with much smaller blocks that won't become an issue with power) and a stronger spring rate than the weak monoleafs that are on it. I am also open to a leaf spring flip and putting the axle back underneath the springs and adjusting with smaller blocks but still need a stronger spring and just by looking at it I have my doubts a spring flip would even be feasible. (Also, I need to consider I will be ditching the stock wheels for some 18 inch reps. Do not know what tire size I will be running but not much taller than stock. Within an inch.) Anyway, I'm all ears here. I'm looking for a spring that is stronger than the monoleaf but will also drop it around 3 inches. Does this exist?


And finally, traction bars. I know it sounds dumb but I feel they will be needed with the 302. If it was staying V6 I wouldn't even consider them but I would like to add them and have it all set up while I'm here. Looking at the way everything is designed, it seems that weld-ons wouldn't be a feasible option here. The gas tank would be directly in the way on one side and I don't want to go messing with that for suspension, so I resort to bolt-ons. They should do fine I would think. My only question here really is, if anyone has done this mod, how long would the bars need to be? I guess from where the axle mounts and up to front eyelet on the spring? Any particular brand I should look at? Obviously this is something I would need to look at after I get my rear springs set up, but just wanted to throw it out there.

Shocks are also on the table, but I'm going to wait to research those until I at least have my springs and sway bars set up. For now, I mainly need to figure out what my rear springs are going to look like.

 

[DintDobbs]

@Murraymountain Code A T-bars are a good move. I'm running Code B on mine, for different reasons, but you will enjoy the stiffer setup.

I'm with you on avoiding the use of blocks to lower. I'd leave the spring under the axle for all the reasons. Honestly, for your application, I would seriously consider custom ordering springs designed for the lower ride height. I'm no expert on street suspensions, but there are several companies that other forum members can recommend for custom leaf spring packs, and if you're going to spend the money, you might as well do it once and do it right.

302 + Manual is gonna be a lot of fun!

 

[Murraymountain]

I agree completely! I am totally open to ordering a custom leaf pack. If I went that route I would just need some pointers on what measurements I'll need to take to get it to where I want it.

 

[DintDobbs]

I know that 97Sandbox, vroomzoomboom, and 4pointslow have lowered 2nd-gens, but I haven't read up to see how they achieved it. There are others as well, but the latter two are high-performance builds, and I'm sure they will be able to make better suggestions than I.

As far as custom spring packs go, or manufacturers of them, I cannot make any recommendations. However, I know that some F-150 leaf packs are purported to be the same dimensions as those on 2nd-gen Explorers. Adding a few extra leaves (preferably some long ones toward the top and some shorter ones toward the bottom) would both stiffen the ride and lower the height, but again I cannot make any proper recommendations here, and I think a purpose-designed pack would be better for a number of reasons.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Murraymountain Does your 1995 have the anti-windup bars like my 1997? I thought that they functioned like traction bars of old.
I may end up having a partial set of them after stripping an 8.8 that I will be narrowing for my 1965 Mustang fastback.

 

[410Fortune]

Only v8 had the traction bars
Sports never got the 8

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune Ahh. That's why I thought most Explorers had those bars. I'm referencing my 5.0 powered Ex/MM.

 

[Murraymountain]

Like @410Fortune said, V8 only option. So no mine never had the traction bars. If it did I would leave them and roll with it but I think I'd like to go with a conventional set of bolt on traction bars. I'll look into that as soon as I get new leafs on it.


So, I am going to contact a company about it that builds custom springs. Does anyone know what the stock spring rate is for my springs? Obviously a monoleaf being a Sport model. They are L rated leafs if that helps at all. And what would you think my new spring rate should be around compared to the old? Keep in mind I'm trying to take out some body roll and improve handling by replacing these, otherwise I would just use the blocks I bought for it.


I'll have updates with pictures of build progress at some point here. Just need to find the time to post it lol.

 

[BluIsBlue]

Beautiful rig! Welcome to the forum. I love the direction you're taking that bad boy. Personally I'm more for powerful and off-road capable but seeing you turn a sport into a street machine piques my interest. Good luck my friend! Awesome to see more of these on the road!