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Bought Daughter a 2010 Ranger, She Paid it Off, Blew Engine, I Replaced Engine.......

I think you can get a vct delete kit for it.
 



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I sent these guys a email asking for information. It appears there could be a solution.
 






I got a response from Massive Speed. I'm getting clarification, but the email said all I need to do is remove the solenoid, but they linked a delete kit. The kit looks like it is a plug to replace the solenoid to seal the valve cover.

They also said that whenever you remove a crank pully on these engines they need to be retimed. I'm ordering their timing kit, and if necessary the delete kit. I'm still under $1,000, and thats including the cherry picker and engine stand. Still 50% cheaper than a used Ranger engine.

Had me worried for a bit, but moving forward..


 






The engine is in time… the fusion engine

So even if you swap the gears you do not have to reset time, you just have to keep the cams from turning while you do the swappages.. ie put everything back in the same spot it’s in now

The kit you ordered has the tools for locking the cams in place… that will make life easier for you!
I had forgotten about the crank balancer not having a woodruff keyway… they are smooth shaft! So crazy!!!

I bet you could just use the ranger cam gear and valve cover
The timing tools are all you really need, just to ensure you get the ranger balancer set on the crank in the proper spot
 












The timing tools are all you really need, just to ensure you get the ranger balancer set on the crank in the proper spot
Does this mean I don't need the VCT delete kit and can simply remove the solenoid?
 






That’s what it looks like to me
Ranger never had it = you already have the parts

But I’m not standing there so make sure there are no differences without the solenoid

You can tear the valvetrain off the ranger engine to get your parts
Then lock the timing in place on the fusion engine and install the ranger bits

I have never messed with a cam phaser before
But I do know a lot about them… on the triton 5.4 engines

I think what they sent you is a lock out kit, it locks the phaser from being able to “phase” and then plugs the holes left by removing the solenoid

What I would do because I’m cheap and I like the factory setup
Is first rip the ranger cam apart and look see how it goes together
Then remove that cam phaser on the fusion engine and see if the ranger stuff will just bolt in place (it will) keeping the fusion cam, valves, chain, etc:. But ranger cam gear and valve cover
 






The $64k question is, does that solenoid control an oil passage? If so I'd assume leaving it open wouldn't be optimal.
 






You are right it looks like it does
Run the delete kit probably best option haha
Like I said not standing there with engines!!

Good job now we are the students
 






I haven't ordered the kits yet because they didn't answer my follow-up questions. I'll call them in the morning.

RockAuto shows the same part number for the exhaust side timing sprocket as both of the Ranger sprockets, so they are the same. I'll see if I want to swap sprockets when I get the kits. The kit manufacturer did say the VCT delete doesn't change the timing, but they said I already changed it when I loosened the crank pully bolt.

Edit: I just got a email confirming I need the kit, but not explaining why. I also read through everything and they mention reduced weight by using a standard gear vs the VCT gear, so maybe a gear swap will happen. I'll post more about this when I install it.
 






I did some reading in my Ranger Haynes manual. Setting the timing is fairly simple with a timing tool set. There is a plate that locks into slots on the the cams at TDC. The other tool bolts into a port on the side of the engine, locking the crank at TDC. The crank pully is located on the crank by a hole in the pully, and a 6mm threaded hole in the timing cover.

You can see the hole in the pully in this pic of the old engine. The engine is at TDC using the long screwdriver down the #1 cylinder spark plug hole method.
20241125_162240.jpg


Even a modern engine novice like me should be able to time the replacement engine.
 






Bingo! And now you are messing with the valvetrain cams and timing you coulda done a head gasket hahahahahahaha welcome to my world
You are doing awesome!
And they wanted like $2200 just for a used Ranger engine
 






The head gasket is a little farther down into the engine. It's not leaking so I'll leave it alone.

The oil pumps are different. The tensioner is bigger and the sprocket is smaller on the Fusion engine.
Ranger
20241201_112910.jpg

Fusion
20241201_112925.jpg


Ranger
20241201_113008.jpg


Fusion
20241201_113000.jpg


Ranger
20241201_115545.jpg


Fusion
20241201_115604.jpg


And, what the heck is this thing? And, can I remove it because the Ranger engine doesn't have one, and there is no way the Ranger oil pan will fit with it there. It looks like it's gear driven off the crank. Maybe something to do with the VCT?
20241201_115704.jpg


20241201_115827.jpg

If I can remove whatever this thing is without causing any issues, then I can swap over the oil pickup tube because it looks like it will fit the Fusion pump.
 






I removed whatever that big heavy thing is. It's got four bolts holding it in place. Under it is a large gear next to the #3 piston rod.
20241201_124345.jpg
20241201_124405.jpg


The oil pickup tube off the Ranger fits on the Fusion pump, but I'll have to tap two bolt holes in raised bosses on the Fusion engine.
 






I think that big heavy part is called a "Balance Shaft" and it looks like Massive Speed makes a delete kit for that as well. I will get confirmation in the morning, and might have to buy one more part, again....
TBC
 






For the price that's a great way to free up a little extra power.
 






This engine swap is a lot more work than I originally anticipated, but every time I think I'm sunk, there is a easy fix. I ordered a balance shaft delete kit off eBay for half the price of the one I linked. All it does is block the oil port. In the last pic I posted, you can see the oil port next to the bolt hole, and one of the flat bosses that I will need to tap for the oil pump pickup tube.

Some more stuff I recently learned;

Once you remove the crank positioning sensor, you have to replace it with a new one.

Same for the crank pully bolt.

More parts ordered.

Need to take one of the Rangers oil pick up tube bolts over to Marshall's Hardware and get the correct metric tap. All the taps I have are SAE.

With all this work, I could have swapped in a 2.5 engine.
 






This is how we learn! And now you are showing us the way!!! Thank you for that
 






I was looking at the oil pumps this morning. The Fusion has a smaller sprocket and larger chain tensioner. RA is a great resource for looking up parts. I looked them up on RA and the part numbers are different, Ranger vs Fusion. Then I looked at the data sheets for both. Neither give actual pressure or volume ratings. However, the Fusion pump has three mounting holes and the Ranger has four, and the mounting hole diameter is different. Since the Ranger pump won't fit the Fusion engine, I guess that answers the question of using a Ranger pump. Deleting the VCT and balance shaft, and closing up their oil ports should help.

Ranger
Screenshot_20241202_095702_Chrome.jpg


Fusion
Screenshot_20241202_095610_Chrome.jpg



I downloaded the instructions for the VCT delete. I will need to swap the intake cam and sprocket from the Ranger (non VCT) to the Fusion. The cam looks to be in good condition, which is a surprise considering all the shiny metallic mud in the oil pan (sorry, didn't take pics) but the instructions also state I will need to set "lash". I'll have to figure out what that means and how to do it. Maybe I'll leave that up to daughter's boyfriend as he is very technically minded.
 



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On these there is no real valve lash setting we are dealing with cam lobes that open and close the valves. Once the cam holds downs are torqued it is over… no adjustments are possible. There are hydraulic tappets that are used to control
Valve clearances but those are only needed when the engine is machined/ new
Your fusion engine was already adjusted from the factory

 






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