TOP OFF Leaking Rear Diff Fluid

[CarcleR]

I have a 2000 explorer xlt - 4 wheel drive - 6 cyl. 4.0 liter - SOHC. I have been leaking rear diff fluid for over a month and it’s a big enough leak to leave spots on the driveway and to wet the back rear passenger tire rim. I took it to Mavis and the guy said the seal was leaking. I will be repairing this myself within the next couple of days. Until then I have no choice but to use it to drive so I’m planning on topping it off with fluid - and I’m getting multiple suggestions of what fluid to use. Can anyone tell me the proper fluid to add? I’m assuming it would have to be the same type as what was originally added since the new oil will be mixing with the oil already in there. Also is this something that is okay to do temporarily as a bandaid for a few days? Would I also have to add a small bit of the friction modifier additive I keep hearing that Explorers require so that the new oil doesn’t dilute the friction modifier that’s already been added originally (if any was even added- I’m not sure if it’s required with my specific make/model). I have to keep this vehicle running the next few days- I have no choice - it’s extremely important that I can safely use it until I can fix it - and like I said, I will be fixing it in the next couple of days.

If anyone can help - I would be so grateful. I have a wife and 3 daughters (and my youngest is SEVERELY disabled) and I’m trying to keep them safe until I can fully fix it.

 

[Turdle]

The rear diff actually calls for expensive synthetic 90-145 gear lube

But, for quick refill, any 80 or 85 slash 140 or145 will do
Correct fluid for fill after repair, 3 qts needed for 2.7 qt fill, plus trac loc friction modifier.
Check your brake fluid reservoir often also. Brake fluid leak "could" possibly look like a rear axle seal leak.
One part , no, make that 2 to be sure to have on hand since axle needs removed to replace seal....
Lock pin bolt, and, lock pin bolt removal tool.

That bolt breaking will add 2-3 days downtime without those. Bolt should be replaced anyway.

 

[Pete Deering]

I have a 2000 explorer xlt - 4 wheel drive - 6 cyl. 4.0 liter - SOHC. I have been leaking rear diff fluid for over a month and it’s a big enough leak to leave spots on the driveway and to wet the back rear passenger tire rim. I took it to Mavis and the guy said the seal was leaking. I will be repairing this myself within the next couple of days. Until then I have no choice but to use it to drive so I’m planning on topping it off with fluid - and I’m getting multiple suggestions of what fluid to use. Can anyone tell me the proper fluid to add? I’m assuming it would have to be the same type as what was originally added since the new oil will be mixing with the oil already in there. Also is this something that is okay to do temporarily as a bandaid for a few days? Would I also have to add a small bit of the friction modifier additive I keep hearing that Explorers require so that the new oil doesn’t dilute the friction modifier that’s already been added originally (if any was even added- I’m not sure if it’s required with my specific make/model). I have to keep this vehicle running the next few days- I have no choice - it’s extremely important that I can safely use it until I can fix it - and like I said, I will be fixing it in the next couple of days.

If anyone can help - I would be so grateful. I have a wife and 3 daughters (and my youngest is SEVERELY disabled) and I’m trying to keep them safe until I can fully fix it.

Look on the driver side door jam. There should a label with the axle code. The auto part counter could also look it up. Another member state years ago they use additive. But My does not. I believe alot where built with the tow package.
2. I don't know if you have a Solid axle or a Stub Axle? I assuming it mush be a solid axle because it leaking.
Before you start any work. First see if you can remove the fill plug on the front side of the housing.
If you can fill it , you should drain it. A3/8 "extenion, hit it in with a hammer. There is lock tight on the thread.

1.The passenger side axle need to be removed.
2. The rear diff cover need to be removed.
3. Use green RTV sealant. You fill it and go. No wait time.
4. small bottle pump. Wal-Mart or harbor freight $10.
5. Need a catch pan for oil.
You need a small box wrench 6mm, or 8 mm. Pinion bolt 8 ft #. Or hand tight. Hit the box wrench with a hammer too break it loose. There's lock tight on the bolt.
To remove the C clip, you need to push the axle IN from where the brake are to toward the axle center to expose the C clip. To remove it, with a small magnet.
I believe the retainer bolt, should be unbroken.
I believe only When you do burnout , they break.
If it broken, you need too purchase a new pinion shaft and retaining bolt and deburring bit. 15 minutes it out.
Repost if you have any issue.

 

[Pete Deering]

Remove your wheel.
I thinking 1st , loosen the fill plug.
2nd. Remove the diff cover.
3rd Remove. The pinion bolt. If you run into trouble you can stop . put the diff cover back refill. You stay drive your car , while you Are regrouping.

 

[Pete Deering]

See spec

 

[Pete Deering]

too remove a axle seal.
I uses a axle seal puller ( because I have one Sears). ? Harbor freight about $5 or autozone?
You can also use a ply bar screwdriver ( curve end) or A screw driver. Or a drywall screw into the lip.
To install new seal
You can you use a block of wood and a hammer or seal installation Tool. I think they available at the loan a tool program's, at the auto part store.
Maybe the removal tools also

 

[CarcleR]

The rear diff actually calls for expensive synthetic 90-145 gear lube

But, for quick refill, any 80 or 85 slash 140 or145 will do
Correct fluid for fill after repair, 3 qts needed for 2.7 qt fill, plus trac loc friction modifier.
Check your brake fluid reservoir often also. Brake fluid leak "could" possibly look like a rear axle seal leak.
One part , no, make that 2 to be sure to have on hand since axle needs removed to replace seal....
Lock pin bolt, and, lock pin bolt removal tool.

That bolt breaking will add 2-3 days downtime without those. Bolt should be replaced anyway.

Thank you so much for your help! So in the meantime- to replace what’s leaked out, I can just top it off with the 80 or 85 - 140 or 145 to get me through for a couple days, but when I go to actually repair the seal, I need to drain everything and use the good syn 90-145 oil, correct?

 

[CarcleR]

Remove your wheel.
I thinking 1st , loosen the fill plug.
2nd. Remove the diff cover.
3rd Remove. The pinion bolt. If you run into trouble you can stop . put the diff cover back refill. You stay drive your car , while you Are regrouping.

Thank you - that’s a good plan, I’m gonna try that out

 

[CarcleR]

Look on the driver side door jam. There should a label with the axle code. The auto part counter could also look it up. Another member state years ago they use additive. But My does not. I believe alot where built with the tow package.
2. I don't know if you have a Solid axle or a Stub Axle? I assuming it mush be a solid axle because it leaking.
Before you start any work. First see if you can remove the fill plug on the front side of the housing.
If you can fill it , you should drain it. A3/8 "extenion, hit it in with a hammer. There is lock tight on the thread.

1.The passenger side axle need to be removed.
2. The rear diff cover need to be removed.
3. Use green RTV sealant. You fill it and go. No wait time.
4. small bottle pump. Wal-Mart or harbor freight $10.
5. Need a catch pan for oil.
You need a small box wrench 6mm, or 8 mm. Pinion bolt 8 ft #. Or hand tight. Hit to box wrench with a hammer too break it loose. There's lock tight on the bolt.
To remove the C clip, you need to push the axle IN from where the brake are to toward the axle center to expose the C clip. To remove it, with a small magnet.
I believe the retainer bolt, should be unbroken.
I believe only When you do burnout , they break.
If it broken, you need too purchase a new pinion shaft and retaining bolt and deburring bit. 15 minutes it out.
Repost if you have any issue.

Thank you so much for all this - this is very helpful!

 

[Pete Deering]

You also need a can of brake clean. Too clean the parking brake shoes off , maybe rotors, backing plate.
Too release the brake cable. Grab the brake cable under the driver side door area, pull on it , then insert a 1/8 drill or similar object into the parking brake assembly, inside the car, where your left foot would rest. The rotor can be removed. Once you remove the brake caliper bracket.

 

[Pete Deering]

Here a list of axle code for the 1995 year. I would think ford uses the same codes from year to year.

 

[CarcleR]

Remove your wheel.
I thinking 1st , loosen the fill plug.
2nd. Remove the diff cover.
3rd Remove. The pinion bolt. If you run into trouble you can stop . put the diff cover back refill. You stay drive your car , while you Are regrouping.

So I was trying to get it started and I got the cover off but forgot to loosen the fill plug first. So should I put it back together real quick and then loosen it before I continue?

 

[CarcleR]

Actually, I decided to just try and loosen it and it came right out so no problem thankfully. But I am very worried about that pinion bolt breaking. I keep hearing that happens very easily and I’m working on this right now but I have to have my daughter in Atlanta (about 2 hour drive) first thing in the morning so I have to finish this tonight. Any tips on keeping it intact during removal?

 

[Pete Deering]

No ,

So I was trying to get it started and I got the cover off but forgot to loosen the fill plug first. So should I put it back together real quick and then loosen it before I continue?

If you can get the fill out your in hot water. Take small screwdriver or pick, and clean out the fill plug , uses any thing 3/8

 

[Turdle]

. But I am very worried about that pinion bolt breaking. I keep hearing that happens very easily and I’m working on this right now but I have to have my daughter in Atlanta (about 2 hour drive) first thing in the morning so I have to finish this tonight. Any tips on keeping it intact during removal?

Get a good 8 mm wrench on it, and tap with hammer lightly.

Slight impact more likely to break it loose, instead of just twisting it.

 

[CarcleR]

Get a good 8 mm wrench on it, and tap with hammer lightly.

Slight impact more likely to break it loose, instead of just twisting it.

If I take the bolt out and it comes out without any hesitation- can I reuse the bolt because I forgot to purchase a new one (I kept reading that you want to always replace that bolt when you remove it).

 

[Pete Deering]

Actually, I decided to just try and loosen it and it came right out so no problem thankfully. But I am very worried about that pinion bolt breaking. I keep hearing that happens very easily and I’m working on this right now but I have to have my daughter in Atlanta (about 2 hour drive) first thing in the morning so I have to finish this tonight. Any tips on keeping it intact during removal?

The bolt be broken already. The bolt break because people beat the rear end. Not from any service.

If I take the bolt out and it comes out without any hesitation- can I reuse the bolt because I forgot to purchase a new one (I kept reading that you want to always replace that bolt when you remove it).

Yes, re use it. I only install a new one if it broken. I also dont add lock tight too it.

 

[Pete Deering]

Also, add wheel bearing grease or similar, too the back of axle seal. You see the spring, the grease keeps the spring from popping out. Also add some axle oil too the opening of the seal after you get it install. It help the axle slip in. Not too damage the seal.

 

[Turdle]

If I take the bolt out and it comes out without any hesitation- can I reuse the bolt because I forgot to purchase a new one (I kept reading that you want to always replace that bolt when you remove it).

Well,tonight you have no choice

Wrap axle splines with a sheet of paper. Hold rolled up paper tension with one hand while guiding thru the seal. Once the spined area is thru, pull out sheet of paper, leaving nick free seal. The splines are sharp. Covering them prevent slicing the seal.

 

[C420sailor]

Good trick.