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thank you for the safety concern! been driving like that for a year, but i'll definitely change it for future prevention. i'll prob get one from the junkyard, lol, i lower my expectations every year, and just do what it takes to keep it running.

no, did not burp the system. plus, the fan got damaged on every blade by the tensioner pulley breaking apart and chopping a piece out of every blade. the backside of the fan is cracked a little as well. since it's been working fine even before i changed everything, i'm going with the air bubble...

i have the r134 in, but the system is already pressured. now, when it isn't cooling well, i tried to refill the r134, but the pressure is already as high as it'll get. how do i discharge it?

while were on it, what vacuum lines are the most important to check?

ball joints replace i'm interested in how hard was it to do the tie rods? did you get an alignment, or what? (i'm about to replace mine).

thanks roadrunner, your information is invaluable to me. so, you think the thermostat is activating anyway?

xeek, i have a post on brakes that i never found an answer for. it was about vibration, even after changing all the parts. possible answers for your noise, is the tires (of course), or, as i'm going to find out whenever i get them changed, is the tie rod ends...

driving cold, the temp gauge goes up to the 'm', then kicks back down to the 'o' in normal. but, when it's heated up and idling, the needle goes past 'm' (without kicking back down) all the way to 'l' and stays there, which worries me that it'll overheat. i've changed the waterpump...

no, i don't think it's what is making the noise. when you do the front brakes, replace the slide pins, noting which way the pointed arch made from the ends of the pins goes. don't hammer them too hard, as it'll slip and chip the caliper metal. probably the reason they're slipping out is that the...

also, check the back break pad (take it off), and spring clip (if it's still there, otherwise, get another one). make sure the slider pins are all the way in (not sliding out, or missing!)

here's a thread of the bearing that i need to replace, on the front passenger side of my 1994 sport 2wd: look at the first picture for the part. i'd like to know what's the part number (1994 sport), or is it just a generic part? also, will this procedure (for a 1997) in the link, work the...

Vehicle Specs lh window, door lock switch here's the situation: i work with this lady, and her husband just had a heart attack and died (at 41 years), and she has 5 younger children. she told me she has to go through the back to get into her car (it's iced over today), cause the left...

sorry for all the questions... was it working properly before you changed the cable (before it got corroded)? starter working when you turned the key?

the starter won't disengage, or engage? you hooked the big wire to the starter's bolt, and the thin one to the tab?

my stepson said something about the 'corona effect', so i checked in the dark under the hood, and sure enough, i could see something glowing. after turning on and off the lights, i found it was a spark plug wire (the shortest one on the passenger side, closest to the firewall). replaced the...

did you splice it or replace the same type cable?

here's the situation: i work with this lady, and her husband just had a heart attack and died (at 41 years), and she has 5 younger children. she told me she has to go through the back to get into her car (it's iced over today), cause the left hand door lock switch doesn't work (the windows do...

you'd think a fuse would take care of that much power surge. did you bypass them? or maybe add a fuse, and find the fuse ratings for your circuit, as it may be the wrong size. also, check stuff in darkness for glowing.

does the front have the locking ring/cotter pin that holds the rotor's nut? how are you tightening the nut?

it's be great to have a step-by-step on front replacement, as mine are bad, and i wonder should i fix it myself.

if the nut only turns a couple of times, make sure you're turning it the right direction. what's it doing when you turn the key, clicking, trying to turn over, or nothing? when you get the bolt out, and if the threads are stripped, you might want to get a replacement. and get the type of...

since yours is the same age as mine, my idler pulley broke apart, but started screaming before that (had trouble locating it, until it broke). you might check the center bolt on the pulley, that it's tight. (my belt tensioner fell apart awhile before that also).

keep us updated on the fix for this.

yes, mine's a 94, and assumed his was the same type. thanks for the tip shaggy, about the heater line. what i would suggest, is to see if the radiator cap, or the thermostat itself, has any gunk, or slippery stuff on it, probably dark green. if it's a little gunky, run some radiator cleaner...

watch out for backed up pressure... the valve to the heater (black plastic the hose is on) can explode when driving. then you'll have to replace that as well.

it's the one that holds the outside bearing and washer. the one the serrated ring wraps around. so, pin, serrated ring, then the nut. i don't remember the torque (look on here), but it's similar to tightening (with a socket wrench) the rotor so it's just tight, then backing off 90degrees (1/4 turn).

mine vibrates after time, despite changes like you made, including hoses. i'll find the problem in the future, but suspects are: the tab on the bottom of the pad, like they said(see if it's missing); the slide pins not lubricated. it started working a little better after i tightened up the nut...

will the cleaner free the cats? (i'll look up seafoam)

that'll help us out, kifferrari. was other stuff not working cause of the other broken wires? what are you doing to fix it?

oh, i'm sorry... see, the broken transmission module caused transmission fluid to leak into the hoses.

2 things: that the truck is completely in park, and the ignition at the key.

[solved] fluid in vacuum lines/engine hiccups this is a 'point me in the right direction' question: just changed my transmission module (if interested in pictures, here's the link): http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?p=2352120 there's fluid in the vacuum lines, and my engine...

exp man8's was adjustable, but as you see in my pics, i got the non- adjustable one from o'reilly's. yes, i did put the console in before the seats, cause it has 2 long screws that i have to line up with the holes (putting the screws all the way down, and aligning them with the holes first).

did it click when you tried to start it? how do your battery connectors look?

i went to change my dome light, cause it wasn't working, and when i went to open the glass, i noticed it was already on. it's been on since, so maybe a bad bulb.

were you going up a hill? you said speed never decreased, but you felt a hesitation?

are you replacing the rear brake parts? that's a little tougher than the front. let us know specific questions, cause there's some fine points to know.

you're hijacking a thread here, but have you checked your accelerator line?

if you need help with repairs, ask on here. those 'shifty' mechanics are evil. about the idler pulley, if it's screaming a little, it's probably going to break someday, and it's easy to repair (it's in the center of the pulleys on my '94). in fact, any high pitched noise or any vibration should...

i just replaced my starter. mine had 2 red wires, a small one for the ignition, and a larger from the battery, the starter is connected with 2 bolts, relatively easy access. the wires are in a clip attached to the lower starter bolt, and after you take off the clip, you can take off the threaded...