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I taught myself how to regear and have done Dana's and Ford 9 inch axles. It takes time. I got a depth gauge and went to work. There are things you can do to make it go faster. On a dana, replace the bearings and ream out the old ones to use as test fit bearings so you don't have to press on...

That is what I did, you can always upgrade the steering later.

***s

This is my latest mod. It is a pinion yoke guard from Four Treks. Since the 9'' has such a low pinion it is vulnerable to attack by rocks whil wheeling. This little unit should protect it from getting bashed so often.

Here is phase III of my steering. I moved the drag link onto the tie rod via the two brackets and installed high misalignment bushings on the pitman arm end. This will eliminate the binding I had in my steering.

I got it from JD2 (JD squared), the website is www.jd2.com I got the model 4 with the air/hydraulic option. It will bend up to 2.5'' tube to 180 degrees. I can make anything, I and my freind have a welder, bandsaw, bender, grinder, notcher, etc.

I have to display this because it is such a nice piece of equipment. I will be using this to make many bumpers, nerf bars and roll cages. I made the stand this weekend and bent up some 2 inch chomoly for a roll cage. It is air over hydraulic and I have 2 inch, 1.5 inch and 1 inch dies. If...

Mine is great on the street. It is a DD and I have had no problems doing over 75mph

Wow, how did I miss this thread for so long. This thing is going to rock, it looks like your ride will have alot of the same features mine does. If that is the case you will love it on the trails and the street. I wish I would have gone with 37s right off the bat.

Here is the latest version of my steering. Iam going to modify it slightly and move the drag link botton attachment on to the tie rod instead of having it on the knuckle

My steering is custom chromoly with heims. I drilled out the pitman arm to make it happen, then I moved the tie rod to the top of the steering horns. It was actually very easy.

Yes it did hit the xmember, but I just cut it out with a plasma cutter so the diff would fit at full flex.

My coil buckets are only spaced at the top so that they are verticle. I have seen some good looking coil buckets that have been spaced out with 2x4 steel, so I know that works well. If I did it again, I would use 2x4 steel to space the buckets. As far as I know there is no diff between the...

No, the buckets are stock size, I mounted the bump stops to the bottom of them. For the shock mount I just used 2 tabs and welded them on to the RA

tinted

That's cool, but isn't that alot of weight for the 4.0 to push around? I would love to see it done with a 351 and mogs.....

I have 4.88s and no ill effacts from the A4LD

I just took mine out last night. I thought I would be slick and try to slide it out without taking the radiator out. I got it out-after much anger and swearing. Next time I will definately take out the rad first.

My 4.0-t-stat, head gaskets, fan clutch, AC condenser, radiator. Plus the normal routine maintenance. 130,000 miles My Honda Accord-Just routine maintenance. 140,000 miles

The public school system is letting some of us down.

Don't pay the extra money for the DOT approved ones. They are the same as the non DOT rims. The only difference is that someone filed the paperwork with the Feds

wow, that was in bad shape. I have to do the heads on mine soon, I hope I can do it in 2 hours-that's fast.

Just put it in D or OD and you can prerun up to the next obstacle on 4 Low

4.88 is better.