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On my 99 AWD, when my ABS light came on, it was the rear ABS sensor located on the top of the rear differential. It is a simple replacement. Jack the rear up or drive on ramps, disconnect the electrical connector and unscrew the sensor. It helps to remove the spare tire. FYI, my Explorer is not...

See the link below for a You Tube video on its location: It's a pain to get to, but doable. I had to lay across the intake. You may want to replace the grommet at the same time. Mine came off with the PCV and could not be reused.

A simple check if the system is working properly and you don't have pressure gauges is to check the discharge temperature at the center vent. You can do this with the Explorer parked. Put a thermometer in the center vent. Put the system in MAX Cool with the fan on High Speed. Run the engine up...

On my 99 XLT 5.0, I developed a pinhole leak from rust in the lower metal transmission cooler line which was connected at the lower radiator fitting and the transmission cooler. Dorman made a replacement line with the screwed fitting on the rdiator end and the flared fitting on the cooler...

I am the original owner and have a 99 5.0 AWD with 251K miles. The starter is original. I have had to replace the alternator twice.

Try this: It's amazing what you can find when you type "Explorer 5.0 Thermostat" on You Tube

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0174 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0340 Should get you started.

If you check a R-134a chart, at 100 F ambient temperature, Low pressure should be 50-55PSI. High should be 315-325 PSI. Appears to be a low charge. What RPM are you running when you check pressures? You should check pressures at approximately 1500 rpms. This helps the air flow through the condenser.

Turn the key to the run position without turning it to the start position. Listen for the fuel pump. You should hear it running with a consistent tone. If not, probable fuel pump issue.

Possible Cam Position Sensor? I chased a "chirping" om my 99 5.0 for several weeks thinking it was a belt tensioner or idler pulley. It was the cam position sensor.

When the Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light starts blinking (as opposed to staying steadily illuminated), this means that a catalytic converter-damaging condition is occurring. Usually you will be able to feel a noticeable difference in the way your vehicle is running. When this Check...

Brake Light Switch options at Rockauto.com https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2010,explorer,4.0l+v6,1444725,electrical-switch+&+relay,brake+light+switch,10474

I experienced humming on my '99 5.0L. It was the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Easy to replace and not expensive.

You may want to listen for the squeal coming from the cam synchronizer. Which is located above the water pump and to the right of the thermostat housing. I had a similar squeal in which I replaced the same pulleys and idler. It was the synchronizer. The bushings begin to fail and the squeal...

You may want to check your radiator cap, I had an incident where my temperature gauge pegged high, I immediately pulled over and had coolant escaping thru my coolant recovery tank, The upper radiator hose was sucked in. I removed the radiator cap which equalized system pressure. I replaced the...

The first step is to determine what code is causing the CEL to illuminate. If you don't have a code reader take it to most any auto parts store. They will plug in their OBD reader and tell you. Once you have the code report back to the forum.

I agree on the plug wire. I had an intermittent #7 misfire which I initially thought was an intake gasket leak. I came to that conclusion after monitoring the Long Term Trim Fuel % readings. By accident I was able to "catch" a misfire spark emitting from the plug wire. A simple fix. By the way...

As Rick said, you really need to check system pressure with a gauge set. If the AC is on and the outside air temperature approximately 75F, your low pressure reading should be 40 - 45 psi, high side 150 -175. You can download R134 A temperature / pressure charts. You can check your clutch...

I have a 99 5.0 and was able to locate the PCV with the help of the following YouTube video: The video is for a 2000 Monty. Should work for you. I was able to reach my hand to grab the PCV just like in the video.

I had a similar leak on my 99 5.0. There was a pinhole in the metal transmission cooler line. This is the line which was attached at the lower radiator fitting and the auxiliary transmission cooler. It had rusted thru. The hole was very small. The transmission fluid sprayed out in a very fine...

Thumbs up for the K-Seal. I had to replace my radiator and thermostat housing in my 99 5.0 three months ago. I thought this stopped the leaks. I still had one very small leak located at possibly the water pump or timing cover. I added one bottle of K-Seal to the coolant recovery tank. It's been...

I've always had good experiences with RA. One one order for rear brake rotors and pads for my '99 they sent me the incorrect pads. I went through their automated return system. Within 24 hours they credited me the full amount for the pads and I didn't have to return the old pads prior to...

The reason there is nothing to connect it to is because the same wiring harness is used on both AWD 5.0's and 4x4 models. I have a 99 5.0 AWD and on mine the plug you show is just plugged into a plastic tab on the back of the radio bezel. The tab is there just to hold the plug in place.

My 99 5.0 has 251K. No major work done. I just replaced the radiator last week. Thank God for this forum and Youtube. I did it myself. Using bungee cords to hold the condenser while separating the radiator from the condenser clips helped immensely. Thanks to a Forum contributor for that tip. I...

The compressor itself may have locked up. Remove the belt and temporarily apply 12 volts to the clutch coil. Since you said the clutch appears to work, try and rotate the compressor manually. You should be able to rotate the compressor and feel some resistance. If you can't turn the compressor...