Ran out of Gas, 2 days later won't start

Hi everyone,

This is my first time on this forum so I'll start by saying Hi and thanking everyone for their time and input on my question. I have a 99 4x4 3.0 Flex fuel, 7.5" rear end (boo), 126" WB, 140 grand on the ticker.

So......
Last saturday I ran out of gas (1st time in my life), coasted down hill to my apartment, got some gas in an old gas can from the station (there was about 1/5th of a gallon in there and I thought it would be fine). I put in the gallon, it fires up great, drive to the station and put 4 more gallons in. On Sat I drive to hiking trail and back, Sunday to work and back, monday to work and then at lunch time cranks and cranks but no start.
When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump whirring, however, and this is the weird stuff, the pump doesn't always stop after 2 seconds - it keeps whirring. Or sometimes it pumps then stops then pumps then stops then pumps then stops until I turn the key off. Each time the pump is intermittent the check engine light flashes and I can hear a clicking from the relays under the hood. Now the alternator is clicking weirdly too when the key is on.
So I thought I screwed up the fuel pump and start pricing a new pump and/ or assembly. $500 at Napa, $490 at Carquest - WHAT! In Denver they have it at Autozone for $380. Still seems steep.
Then on tuesday morning I get to work and think what the hell - I'll try it, and she fires right up. Great I think. Come lunchtime I get in and same problem.
This afternoon I go back and try some more and it starts but runs rough as hell and dies. Then crank crank crank but no start and intermittent pump sound.
I bought a new fuel filter today since it's only $15, but because I'm parked on a downslope I can't change it as the fuel will siphon out of the tank while I fumble with getting the new filter on.
I really don't want to spend big bucks on a new pump assembly when I'm not sure this is the real culprit.
I'm thinking some crap may have gotten in the filter and is restricting pressure resulting in the poor performance and no run condition. I was also told I may be having a fuel pump cavitation problem (maybe why it starts when it's 35 degrees outside but not when it's 65?).
I'm at a loss here!
Thanks for reading my long post - I appreciate any help.
Mike

...Running out of gas in your vehicle now days will lead to an early death of your fuel pump...The fuel actually lubricates the pump...

...From what you are describing I would say it's a fuel filter problem...

...I have seen a problem lately on here, of a few 99 X's and Rangers having this same problem...Try the filter first and see if this resolves it...

Welcome to this forum! Cut the old filter open to see if it's full of junk. Add some fuel injection cleaner after you replace the filter.

tbars4 said:

...The fuel actually lubricates the pump...

Click to expand...

The fuel also cools the pump. You really should never get below 1/4 full - your pump will appreciate it.

I also suggest changing the filter first. Don't forget to bleed off the pressure before opening the fuel line. If not, you will get a spray-shower of gasoline.

FWIW, I got about 220,000 miles from my original fuel pump.

Thanks for all of the reply's.
I certainly have the fuel pump at the top of the probable cause list, however, there are some factors that just don't seem to fit the typical description of a faulty pump.

- the pump consistently comes on, judging by its sound. I wish I had access to a fuel pressure gauge to see the pressure output, but I don't.

- the intermittent working seems electrical and hearing the relay clicking on and off can't be right.

My boss will let me keep it in the parking lot for a bit so I figured I'd start with the filter, and maybe replace the fuel pump relay, then go from there.

In the end I think I'll end up replacing the pump assembly.
The shop here in the mountains wants $90 per hour and estimates 2.5 hrs.
I can get the assembly in Denver on Sat when I'm down there anyway for $110 less than here. But I need to order it tomorrow to have it in on time.
How difficult would you estimate,
I have minimal experience, changed many sensors and little stuff, change my own fluids on a pretty regular basis. I don't have the special tool that my Haynes manual says I need to remove the assembly from the tank. Is it really necessary?

Thanks again

In regards to bleeding the pressure before changing the fuel filter:
The first time I did this I tripped the inertia switch and cranked it for a bit and it would run rough and choke up and die, then I'd crank it a little bit more. Then I used the weird tool to release the internal retainer on the filter and separated it resulting in the gasoline shower and a a quick water shower to flush my eyes out. I dislike working with gasoline now.
The next time I just had a bunch of rags and separated it slowly, like opening a shook up beer.

Should I hit the Schrader valve on the fuel rail instead?

...:scratch:...Everyone is saying change your fuel filter first..

To replace the fuel pump, you have one of two options:
1 - drop the fuel tank.
2 - remove the bed.

I guess there is a third option - cut a hole in the bed. But I don't recommend that.

The pump assembly is about 15 inches tall, and is mounted to the top of the tank.

If you hear the pump cycle, most likely it is OK. It cuts off when pressure in the line builds, either from the fuel system being properly charged, or from debris in the filter moving to block the line.

At this point, we are only guessing. Change the filter - that is the easiest to do. See what happens then.

Whoops - reread your message.

I assume the special tool is for the lockring holding the pump to the tank. I used a hammer and large screwdriver to gently tap the ring to rotate/unscrew it. If you choose this method, just be careful. Don't take your frustrations out with the hammer in your hand!

The special tool I questioned is for the lock ring. I also heard to use a screwdriver but the idea of screwdriver and hammer near gas fumes has me a little worried.

I'm trying to weigh out whether a shop (and credit card debt) is worth the pain in the a** it would be to me to do it myself, although I think I could pull it off.

Don't knwo if anyone has mentioned this...

If you ran out of gas, most likely there isn't any fuel in the lines, so try turning your key to the on position, not turning your vehicle on, but priming the fuel lines. It might have gotten empty enough that all the fuel in the lines dropped down. This is probably why your fuel pump is whirring constantly. Just move the key back and forth between on and off, while NOT starting the car.

It'll take a few times, I replaced my filter and all the fuel came out, so I had to re-prime the lines before starting. I tried starting, and it started then died. Try re-priming using the method I described and see what happens.

Blacksheep Josh said:

Don't knwo if anyone has mentioned this...

If you ran out of gas, most likely there isn't any fuel in the lines, so try turning your key to the on position, not turning your vehicle on, but priming the fuel lines. It might have gotten empty enough that all the fuel in the lines dropped down. This is probably why your fuel pump is whirring constantly. Just move the key back and forth between on and off, while NOT starting the car.

It'll take a few times, I replaced my filter and all the fuel came out, so I had to re-prime the lines before starting. I tried starting, and it started then died. Try re-priming using the method I described and see what happens.

Click to expand...

Only it started initially for him, and he's been priming it enough it should have worked by now.

If you are worried about a screwdriver and hammer on the ring just use a brass punch or a wood dowel with the hammer. No chance of sparks that way.

I had driven it about 10-15 miles over 2 days after running out of gas and refilling, then the no start condition occurred. It has started 4 or 5 times since and the last time it was running extremely rough. So I don't think it needs to prime the system. I did try this though and still no help.

I hope to get to work early tomorrow and see if it starts. If so I'll turn around so I'm on an upslope and change out the filter. If it doesn't start I'll tow it up a bit with my beater heep cherokee and flip it around so I'm facing up.

If this doesn't work the relay will be changed next.
If this doesn't work I'll call autozone and order the assembly.

I'll keep you all posted on how it turns out.

Out of curiousity, have you reset the computer by disconnecting the battery? I'm thinking this may help, but it may not. I'm thinking something in the computer and it not having gas screwed up...

The very first thing I tried was to disconnect the battery wait a minute turn the key to on, turn off, reconnect. No good.

When I change the filter should I relieve pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail or the inertia switch, which I haven't had good luck with in the past?

MDub said:

The very first thing I tried was to disconnect the battery wait a minute turn the key to on, turn off, reconnect. No good.

When I change the filter should I relieve pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail or the inertia switch, which I haven't had good luck with in the past?

Click to expand...

Schrader Valve, although when I did mine I didn't relieve the pressure, lol. It just kinda spurt out everwhere. Have a clean bottle handy so you can catch the fuel that might come out when you disconnect the fuel filter.

This is a really weird problem...

MDub said:

The very first thing I tried was to disconnect the battery wait a minute turn the key to on, turn off, reconnect. No good.

When I change the filter should I relieve pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail or the inertia switch, which I haven't had good luck with in the past?

Click to expand...

Fuel rail valve will work fine just not onto a hot engine. The better way is to remove the fuel pump relay or fuse or unplug the inertia switch and run the engine till it runs out of gas. Since it's not running relieving the pressure at the schrader valve works too,

I tried the inertia switch and cranking the first time I changed the filter and this did not work. I got gas in my eyes and did not have an all around good time. However I'm sure I tripped the inertia switch because the engine ran rough and died, then I cranked a bit more (not all that unlike how its running rough and stalling now). The next two times I did the same thing but had plenty of rags and a slow hand separating the filter.

...For removing the fuel filter, these links might help...

...Shows the tool needed...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102197

...And if you have problems with the tool...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215029

Thanks for the links,

I have the metal tool and it is a super PITA, maybe I should buy the plastic kind. Also, good tip about pushing the tube and filter together with tool inserted then pull apart. Usually takes me about 30 min or so to get the filter off. I really hate all the gas, even when I think I've relieved pressure there still a bunch of gas spilled in the process. I hate it.