Removing driver side upper control arm bolt

I'm replacing the upper control arms on a 98 Explorer. The passenger side was easy but the driver side is a different story. I got the bolt loose but I can't get the bolt completely off to remove the arm because of the fuel lines, they are in the way. How do I get the bolt off with the fuel lines in the way? I was thinking on prying the fuel lines back a little bit, but I do not want to risk cracking the lines. Anyone else done this before and had a hard time with this?

you can pry the lines out of your way w/out hurting them.

i agree,, unclip them, from the plastic clips, but be slow and careful, when you put it back, put it back the other way,, i did,,

Just pull the lines out of the plastic clips and I believe there is also a hold down clip bolting the lines to the frame, somewhere in that area.

corkey said:

i agree,, unclip them, from the plastic clips, but be slow and careful, when you put it back, put it back the other way,, i did,,

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Good idea but I believe the bolt is oriented that way as a safety feature. That way if the nut comes off the bolt can't back it's way out and cause the upper control arm to fly off.

It was put in that way because engineers think that vehicles will never need a repair

Lizard said:

Good idea but I believe the bolt is oriented that way as a safety feature. That way if the nut comes off the bolt can't back it's way out and cause the upper control arm to fly off.

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The hard fuel lines are NOT a "safety feature". If that were true, the other three UCA bolts would also have them.
Pry the lines gently or cut the single piece bolt and washer and replace with a Moog K80065 camber kit or similar.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203342
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191742

rickybobby said:

It was put in that way because engineers think that vehicles will never need a repair

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ROFL funny! The drivers rear bolt is such a PITA some "pros" resort to cutting it.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2268137

Yeah it was a major PITA, I recently did this job...

Did not have to cut the bolt but there was plenty of swearing and maneuvering to get that thing out. Unbolt the fuel lines and the shield to get more room to wiggle it around. IMO a terrible design.

My 2000 has the fuel lines routed slightly differently so they are no longer in the way. I think Ford figured out they had made a mistake.

masospaghetti, I TOTALLY AGREE with you that Ford made a mistake. But remember, there are people on here that swear that if the engineers did something, that it has to be right. The stupid 5th shock comes to mind.

I did my upper control arms a couple of months ago. Just unclip the lines like everyone else said. There will be enough play in the them to get the old bolt out and the new one in. Just be patient.

Yeah, I did my UCA's this past Oct. Swore only a little bit at that bolt. Wasn't that tough. Nothing compared to putting a new timing belt on a PT Crusier... the neighbors had to bring their kids inside for that one, and my closest neighbor's a 1/4 mile away. LOL

deweyville65 said:

masospaghetti, I TOTALLY AGREE with you that Ford made a mistake. But remember, there are people on here that swear that if the engineers did something, that it has to be right. The stupid 5th shock comes to mind.

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To be fair, I think MOST design choices made by the engineers have a valid reason..but sure, they make mistakes.

Be patient, the bolt will come out. You have to orient it a certain way, and likewise you have to put it back the same way.

So initially I thought I would have to do the same thing- and actually the engineers are brilliant. You can get it out without ANY force or messing with the fuel lines, you just have to rotate the camber flange (?) a few times to dodge the frame and the fuel lines. I'll post a video if anyone still wants to see it.

jimmaymh said:

So initially I thought I would have to do the same thing- and actually the engineers are brilliant. You can get it out without ANY force or messing with the fuel lines, you just have to rotate the camber flange (?) a few times to dodge the frame and the fuel lines. I'll post a video if anyone still wants to see it.

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Please do I'd like to see it...

Hi everyone. This is my first post. I recently came across a 1997 Explorer XLT and it is your perfect "ugly duckling" candidate. What I mean by that is the vehicle looks like crap on the outside but it runs cherry.

Anyway, to the point of the thread... I replaced both control arms / upper ball joints yesterday. Yes, that driver side bolt is a PITA. After a bunch of swearing and trial and error, here is the solution my father and I came to.

With the nut off, push the bolt in as far as it can go. With the threaded end sticking out exposed, carefully cut about 1.5 to 2 centimeters off from the end of the bolt. You'll need a good reciprocating power saw and a heavy
duty blade for thick steel. We actually went through two cheesy "bi metal" blades cutting it. Important: You have to make one nice cut through the bolt so that you can still thread a nut on it (see below).

Once you have the bolt shortened, you'll be able to get it through enough to pull out the control arm. The bolt will still be stuck against the strut tower and the lines. Just leave it there and install the new
control arm using that same bolt.

It isn't the cleanest solution, but it works. Also, I took my Explorer to a shop that same day and had it aligned, and they didn't notice any problems... so I can say with certainty it's a good solution.

I’m a new member and I’m also having the same problem and also the other camber bolts or whatever are really rusted... any tips?

I used a zaw saw and a cut off wheel. IT was a pain in the butt But I got them out( upper control arms)

scott from west seneca said:

I used a zaw saw and a cut off wheel. IT was a pain in the butt But I got them out( upper control arms)

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Thanks for the input after a little bit of back and forth with the impact it came loose. New problem now...