01 Sport 4wd jack points and other desperate questions | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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01 Sport 4wd jack points and other desperate questions

JeniLynn

New Member
Joined
February 27, 2016
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City, State
Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 ford explorer sport
So.. I have a 2 1/2 ton trolley pump up jack thing (that is, indeed, the technical description on the case), two 3 ton jack stands, and an explorer under body so rusted I cant quite determine where to put anything that isn't going to make the entire SUV disintegrate into a pile of rust in my driveway.

Really. I've read posts. Then I've went out and tried. It scared the daylights out of me. I came in and watched videos. Tried again. That scared me too. Rinse and repeat for most of my completely unproductive day. So much for changing the wheel bearing hub assembly and tie rods, I haven't even gotten so far as conclusively determining they both need replaced. My Saturday is gone, and I haven't even managed to jack up the the stupid thing.

It is quite possible that part of the problem is that, quite frankly, I have no idea what a cross member is, what torsion bars look like, or how to know how much what corrosion is going to impact what parts of the body and their ability to hold while I'm working on the car. Which kinda sucks. And I haven't been able to find labeled pictures or schematics anywhere online that match my car. All of those little spots, by the way, where the factory jack would go if I was just changing a flat - well, put a jack on those and watch it fold. Like my SUV is trying to turn into a transformer. A slow, loud, socially inept transformer.

So here's what I'm hoping one of you wonderful mechanical people can tell me, and I'm going to just throw in all of my questions to (hopefully) avoid cluttering your very useful forum with multiple rounds of my near-nervous-breakdown-rambling. Because my boss really seems to expect me to be on time to work Monday. And Uber sucks at on time.


1) Where (preferably in small words, hopefully with pictures) do I jack up this car in a way that its not going to fall? Or fall apart?
- Just one side (the front passenger) while verifying what needs done
- And the entire front end (I believe that's required for this work) after I get the parts

2) I'm using ramps behind the back wheels to keep the car from rolling... is that good enough to keep me from getting dead?

3) Once this is done, Ill be putting the car on said ramps to replace the muffler and tail pipe, which are kinda sorta still attached to the Explorer, but not really each other, per-say. They're totally rusted apart - like the rest of my delightful car. Are there any cheap tricks I can use to make this functional, like pipes from home depot :)? Or do I need to go full on new muffler / extension pipe / resonator assembly?

4) If, hypothetically, I may have noticed a week or so before my wheel decided it didn't want to be straight anymore, (a negative camber, google calls it) that when I put gas in my car... some of it leaks out while I'm pumping it... what should I do about that - keeping in mind that I will be doing it. Not a mechanic. Me.

5) Are there any fun little facts I should know while doing the wheel bearing hub assembly and tie rods tomorrow? Things that you guys know from experience but google wouldn't think to tell me, perhaps?

6) Anybody wanna trade cars? ;-)



If you're feeling kind enough to help - before you do, I do need to add this disclaimer: I know some of you will read this post and be very - very - tempted to tell me not to do this myself. I'm very well aware there's not too much that can make a job unsafe quicker than a person feeling nervous and insecure doing it, but I promise, if I could afford any other option in the whole wide world at this point, I would be doing it. Nonetheless, I couldn't change brakes and rotors right up until I bought a car that had to have them at right that very moment. There's a lot of things I couldn't do until I had to do them, and when this is done, I'll get to add 'make pile of rust resemble a functioning vehicle' to the list... because a girls gotta do what a girls gotta do.

So your help would be greatly, insanely, incredibly appreciated.




-JeniLynn.
 



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The safest spot to put the jack is on the frame. Your frame ishould not be rusted away enough to not work. If you're jacking up the front, put on your emergency brake, and yes chock the rear wheels. Once you have the vehicle lifted, put one of the jack stands under the frame near the jack. Then it's safe to get under and look at things.
Do you have a owners manual in th glovebox? That should tell you appropriate jack points. Do you have a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your year Explorer? If not, get one now, it will help for the things you want to do.

Welcome to the forum!
 












Follow up question...

Thank you both for your help.

So, after wasting a Saturday (that ended in my previous post) trying just to figure out how to safely jack the car up, I had to walk away in disgust for a week, and finally came back, read your posts, and got the car jacked up today. I think I mainly just needed to be a bit more brave. It left me with another very big question, though...

The tire moves, without any problem whatsoever, in and out, if I'm pushing or pulling at 12 and 6, 3 and 9, and pretty much anywhere... And it moves quite a bit.

I had thought it was just the wheel bearing and possibly tie rod, but I'm wondering - it moves completely independently of the ball joint. When I move the tire, the ball joint stays so still it almost looks like they're not even connected. And it's pretty clear that whoever had the car before me (I bought it in September) replaced the ball joint on the other side.

Looking at tutorials and reading instructions, as much as I hate to admit it - I'm concerned this might be a job above my "learn on the fly" skill level.

Can someone confirm if the ball joint needs to be replaced? Is there any chance at all it would be normal for it to move independent of the tire? I can't imagine that'd be the case... but I'm hoping...



-JeniLynn
 






How much is quite a bit? 1/8"? 3"?
I don't know that generation of front end, but I suggest you jack up the other side, the side with the newish ball joints, and compare movement...
 






I had both sides jacked up. I couldn't get the other side to move at all. I'm an extremely poor judge of distance, but I'd say at least 2" back and forth - and I'm trying to be very conservative in my estimate to account for the perception changes that come with severe annoyance. It was probably a bit less than that pushing/pulling at that top and bottom, but still pretty close to 1.5"+.

Before the tire was jacked up you could see an angled gap, wider at the top, between the hub assembly and... brake shield(??whatever plate is on the inside of the hub assembly) that happened in conjunction with my "lets break and become undrivable" adventure. The ABS light came on at the same time, and until a jacked it up - it seemed like everything pointed to the bearings and maybe tierod...

But it really has a huge amount of move-ability.. I was able to move it - by myself - just reaching over while I was in front of the car where I could see that the ball joint wasn't moving when the tire moved - at all.
 






If you could manage to post some pics of this, it would help us greatly. If you need it, there's a thread near the top of the New Members section that tells how to post pics here if you're not an elite member.
 






I don't completely understand what is moving and what isn't, but there should be essentially NO movement there at all (certainly not 2"), so something is very wrong there. It may be that it is all in the bearing (if that's the case, the wheel is very close to separating from the car). It may be that there is more going on.

Check carefully where the movement is happening. I think you are saying that "the big cast iron part" is not moving at all but the wheel is moving in all directions? If so, then yes, the wheel bearing assembly is likely your problem (or at least the biggest one). (Check out the bearing threads here if you are uncertain.) After that is replaced, you may find movement in some other locations, or maybe not.

Remove the wheel. That will help you see where the movement is if it is in the bearing. (No broken wheel studs, right?)

It sounds like you have a lot of rust and not necessarily a big arsenal of tools for dealing with stubborn rust. Be prepared for some struggle getting the old one out. You should be able to get the tools you need on free rental from a parts store.

Good for you for taking this on yourself. Necessity is a great motivator to learn. There is a ton of info here to help you. Just ask if you need more help with something.
 






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