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05 explorer no heat

You all be sure you're using the correct coolant after flushing now ye hear! Using the incorrect coolant (or never ever changing it) is probably what caused the clog in the first place.

One should only use one of these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AFZA/G05/N0496.oap

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http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AFZ9/FLEET/N0496.oap

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Or if you are rich:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-VC-7-B-Concentrated-Antifreeze/dp/B000NU3T3W/

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  1. Zerex 5/100 (ZX001) appears to meet Ford's ESE-M97B44-A spec.
 






I just took a look at the wiring diagrams and I am only seeing the "ambiant temp sensor" on models with auto a/c and not manual a/c models.

This is confusing to me as I have a manual a/c model and experienced it not coming on in defog mode when it was about 42 degrees out, I had to switch between reg a/c and defog modes to get dry air to defog my windshield, once defogged I had to leave it on reg a/c.

My advice, better to have it come on and not need it than to need it and have it not come on.

If your winters stay below 40 all winter you could just disconnect the clutch power wire on the side of the compressor for the winter.

Thanks for responding. Yes, it is auto a/c.

I hear what you're saying about better on than off, but still, could it be the ambient temp sensor that's causing my problem?

Is it as simple as replacing that part to stop the a/c coming on in defrost mode when it's 20 degrees outside?
 






What would be clogging it though? There was no rust or anything. The coolant was green, when drained it and ran the flush it came out clear. When i back flushed the heater core directly it was clear.
 






I had the same issue with no heat. Before you take apart your dash, open the hood and on the passenger side attached to one of the heater lines,there is a plastic valve with a vacuum on it. My valve was jammed in the closed position. The cost was $18.90 at the auto parts store. Ford wanted $50,00..screw ford. It takes not even 15 minutes to change. If you want to test it, remove both hoses attached to it and look in the valve. If you can't see through, try moving the valve by hand. It should feel like a t is spring loaded. If it's stuck, try forcing it till it opens. If it's jammed you will need a new one. You could probably un jam it and leave it open and you,lol have heat. Personally I would replace it for $18.00 because replacing it at 75 degrees outside is nicer than -10 don't you agree.
 






The coolant was green,

Green is certainly the wrong coolant for a 2005. 2002 was the last to get old green.

Green has phosphates which these vehicles are not supposed to have.
 






I had the same issue with no heat. Before you take apart your dash, open the hood and on the passenger side attached to one of the heater lines,there is a plastic valve with a vacuum on it. My valve was jammed in the closed position. The cost was $18.90 at the auto parts store. Ford wanted $50,00..screw ford. It takes not even 15 minutes to change. If you want to test it, remove both hoses attached to it and look in the valve. If you can't see through, try moving the valve by hand. It should feel like a t is spring loaded. If it's stuck, try forcing it till it opens. If it's jammed you will need a new one. You could probably un jam it and leave it open and you,lol have heat. Personally I would replace it for $18.00 because replacing it at 75 degrees outside is nicer than -10 don't you agree.

Ya i seen this when i searched before posted. The heater control vavle seems to be operating. I can move the lever freely, and when i took it off the hoses, i could see right through it/it was open
 






Green is certainly the wrong coolant for a 2005. 2002 was the last to get old green.

Green has phosphates which these vehicles are not supposed to have.

Damn it....it had green when i first drained it too. Everything has been fine since she bought the truck almost a year ago. The heat only stopped gettin hot a few days before i posted.

When i dropped the glove box the other night, i could feel vacuum when i pulled the red line off the top actuator, the lever moved out, and the vents shut. When i pulled the blue vacuum line off the bottom one, nothing happened and i couldn't feel vacuum.
 






The sticker on the res tank shows to use green.
 






The sticker on the res tank shows to use green.

Odd because I don't have a sticker, is it a Ford sticker? Maybe it was put there by a quickie-lube place?

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Be aware, there is no Prestone product that is approved.
 






Ya pretty sure its a Ford sticker. Has a ! Inside a triangle and a book with an i just like on the res cap. Sorry doesnt say to use green rather says not to use orange. Thought it was orange with a no sign over it and green with a check next to it, but its jus orange fluid in a bottle with the no sign over it.
 






Did you ever get the heat issue resolved? Your last sentence on your first post states you don't get the clicking and thumbing sound you get when switching from cold to heat. I had this problem about a week ago on my 04. When I turned the dial from cold to hot I heard a thumbing sound coming from about where your right foot would be when driving. When I turned it back to cold it went away. If that sounds like what your getting it could be the blend door actuator a small electric motor with plastic gears. With age one or two teeth will break on the gear and it will quick working. Go to You Tube and search for it there's several videos on this. I'm not a mechanic but this fixed my problem of no heat and got rid of the thumbing when it's in the heat position. It takes about 2 hours for a non mechanic like myself to do. Taking out the center console is very easy. I did pop off the cover around the radio so I could see what I was doing better and I also pulled off the plastic covering under the steering column only 2 screws and it pulls right out, I did this to see the top third bolt.
 






Did you ever get the heat issue resolved? Your last sentence on your first post states you don't get the clicking and thumbing sound you get when switching from cold to heat. I had this problem about a week ago on my 04. When I turned the dial from cold to hot I heard a thumbing sound coming from about where your right foot would be when driving. When I turned it back to cold it went away. If that sounds like what your getting it could be the blend door actuator a small electric motor with plastic gears. With age one or two teeth will break on the gear and it will quick working. Go to You Tube and search for it there's several videos on this. I'm not a mechanic but this fixed my problem of no heat and got rid of the thumbing when it's in the heat position. It takes about 2 hours for a non mechanic like myself to do. Taking out the center console is very easy. I did pop off the cover around the radio so I could see what I was doing better and I also pulled off the plastic covering under the steering column only 2 screws and it pulls right out, I did this to see the top third bolt.

No unfortunately i never got the heat to get hot. Even after using a couple bottles of the prestone flush stuff and driving for a few days, i then hooked up a hose directly to the heatercore to back flush it, still no luck.

No matter how/what i change the dials to i get no thumping or clicking.

I get vacuum/suction out of the red vacuum hose that goes to the top actuator, but no suction/vacuum from the bottom blue (i think its blue) vacuum hose.

I was trying to manually open or close the blend door but i couldn't figure out how. The metal rod that comes out of the bottom actuator that the blue vacuum hose goes to, i couldn't see that moving when changing any of the dials n was really hard to move by hand, couldn't move/pull it (the metal rod) all the way out and would jus pull right back in when i let go of it.
 






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