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1354 swap

Cut it, put a piece of steel between and welded it up. We did weld the extra peice in at an angle toward the drivers side. We did have to heat it up a hair to bend it to fit exact. In 2wd the knob just rests against the console but in all other positions it doesn't touch. Everything is from the donor vehicle which was all in a 91 explorer.

The scariest part was cutting the shifter as its VERY hard to find.
 



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Well that setup is ultimately what I would like I have metalworking and welding equipment so that's not a big deal and I actually like the fact that it rests against the console giving Maximum leg room in two-wheel drive as that's going to be the position it's in most of the time any way the only thing I'm not looking forward to is like you said, finding the assembly. How about a 1350 case would those be any easier to find in manual and won't they bolt up to the 4r /a4ld family of Transmissions? Didn't those come in the Bronco ll's .
 






1350 has a slip yoke front output, not worth messing with. You can use some of the linkage from a 1350 if it comes down to it. I compared the two shifter linkages and its not that far off but there are differences that I can't remember.

That shift boot is a universal mr.gasket one also.
 






Good to know thanks boomin . Do you know if junk yard owners typically know about the rarity of this setup up and exploit it price wise? I'll keep an eye on eBay as well. Let me know if you come across one somewhere.
 






I just sold one a few months back to @Xeek . He might let it go, im not sure if he has even used it yet and he's local to us.
 






The 2 manual shifts I found were at a self service junl yard. One in a 93 mazda b2000, the other a 91 explorer. I found a 3rd one one time in a bronco II, but didnt have the funds to get it at the time. As far as I know, and definitely from what Ive seen, 91 is the only year that explorers had manual 1354, and not even all of them had it. I have also seen them the early to mid 90’s rangers and mazda b-series. The 4405 in my 96 took a dump and I had a 1354e laying around so threw that in for the time being. I do have to crawl under to shift it, but if you pull the cover off the electric shift motor, pull out the big gear in there. It has a “nipple” sticking out from the center on one side that slips over the rod coming out of the tcase. I use that gear as a makeshift shiftster, and it works great. Other than behemoth, I’ve not found anywhere else that makes shift linkage to convert the 1354e. My advice is just get the 1354m including the trans access panel and modify the shiftwr aa booming described. Crawling under in snow and mud gets really old really fast!!
 






this is a great thread. @bigred4x4 have you decided what your going to do? I have been searching high and low for a 1354m case and shifter assembly with no luck. Only a few have surfaced on Ebay but the sellers (junk yards) wont pull the linkage/shifter or have already scrapped the cars after the major parts have been yanked. If anyone know's where one can be found; please let me know, im ready to buy.

However, I have found many 1354e units everywhere, and may just reconsider to swap one of those in to get rid of my clunky 4405 unit. Since mine is a 97 Sport, I hope I wont loose functions in my vehicle like the rear wiper assembly (unless im mistaken). My 4405 is making noise when it shifts (like a big bang) between 4 high and 4 low and since I'm going to SAS mine, might as well do it all in one try.

I emailed Behemothdrivetrain.com and they came back to tell me they make a single universal cable shift kit. Here is a picture of the twin-stick. Price for cable shifter kits are $130 per stick; includes everything except knobs. knobs are $8 in plain black.

BTW: What front and rear driveshaft would you use when swapping to this transfer case?



http://u.cubeupload.com/Spudhut/twinstick.jpg
twinstick.jpg
 






Use a front drive shaft from a 95-96 explorer with double cardan joint instead of the cv the rear I believe you can use what you have. I'm not doing the full E swap to much involved and my research shows the 1354 shift motors to be problematic.I have not really started looking yet but my first choice is going to be a 1354 m but I'm not spending too much time on that witch Hunt if it doesn't turn up fairly quickly then I'll be going with the E tcase and putting the shifster knob on it until I work something else out. I'm going to look more into the kit from behemoth drive train.
 






I wont have the space for the twin stick is the major problem I wonder if the single stick will work. Plus at the same time not really digging the having to drill out and make mods inside the tcase.... Sounds sketchy but doable if that ends up being my only option.
 






I hear ya on the modifications. if I can come across a manual unit, Ill be on it. I prefer factory look myself. :)
 






Yea I'm totally cool with the shifster because it's just so easy and cheap to get a 1354 in there that way ... Until I have to actually shift into 4wd I can see being a pain. manual hubs psh no big deal, having to crawl underneath the truck every time to shift into/out of 4wd or low range seems like it could get very annoying then jumping back in and seeing the conveniently placed knob on the radio bezel and the bwm mod switch as now just mere decorations lol. But then again I have a manually controlled CAD so I can cut power to the front that way at any time that way. so I can do the crawling under just once before things start to get messy so not really that bad I guess.
 












For a 1354 electronic swap and converting it to a manual all you would need is the gem from a 2 wd (with the same year and options other than 4wd) so the 4-wheel drive lights don't flash, the double cardan front driveshaft and the t-case itself, plus the shift adapter and with roughly about $200~250 total and I few hours of work your swapped. Assuming you use the shifster otherwise installing the shift linkage in the cab is going to be the PITA part.
 






I forgot to figure in the cost of the drive shaft into that cost as I have a 96 and don't need to swap drive shafts not sure how much it would cost you at a salvage yard probably not to much but I looked it up the other day on the oreillys website and they want like almost $900! For a new one! :laugh: I would honestly be surprised if they have actually sold any of those at that price.
 






With these cases and conversions being fairly sought after I'm surprised the shifster 2 isn't available anymore if you can still get the original shifster, or another company hasnt made a simple adapter/shift linkage that is not over the top and a PITA to install.
 






geesh! I wont be spending that kind of money on a shaft, you could get a new one custom made for less.

There is a 'U-pull It' that I visit quite a bit and there are fortunately a dozen Gen2's Explorers sitting in there, plus quite a few Rangers. The laughable part is, most are early 90's units and all are electric! :eek:
 






this is a great thread. @bigred4x4 have you decided what your going to do? I have been searching high and low for a 1354m case and shifter assembly with no luck. Only a few have surfaced on Ebay but the sellers (junk yards) wont pull the linkage/shifter or have already scrapped the cars after the major parts have been yanked. If anyone know's where one can be found; please let me know, im ready to buy.

However, I have found many 1354e units everywhere, and may just reconsider to swap one of those in to get rid of my clunky 4405 unit. Since mine is a 97 Sport, I hope I wont loose functions in my vehicle like the rear wiper assembly (unless im mistaken). My 4405 is making noise when it shifts (like a big bang) between 4 high and 4 low and since I'm going to SAS mine, might as well do it all in one try.

I emailed Behemothdrivetrain.com and they came back to tell me they make a single universal cable shift kit. Here is a picture of the twin-stick. Price for cable shifter kits are $130 per stick; includes everything except knobs. knobs are $8 in plain black.

BTW: What front and rear driveshaft would you use when swapping to this transfer case?



http://u.cubeupload.com/Spudhut/twinstick.jpg
twinstick.jpg


The bang you hear going into low range is actually pretty normal, even says so in my 96 explorers owners manual, randomly jumping out of 4wd,grinding, worn out clutch, and output bearing failure/seal leaks, broken shift fork and worn case halves are the major problems, along with sensor and shift motor issues but those are easy to fix, the main problem with the 4405 is the cost of the amount of parts that would be most likely needed for a solid rebuild should you find yourself forced to do one. Honestly you would probably be better off buying a reman with updates installed for about $1000 with warranty but It's cheaper and more reliable in the big picture to swap in a 1354 but getting back the convenience of the stock set-up is the tricky part.(it's crazy how much cheaper rebuilding my tranny costs compared to the parts list I'd want to put in my tcase) if it wasn't so $$$$ id keep my 4405, BWM, and stock controls.
 






geesh! I wont be spending that kind of money on a shaft, you could get a new one custom made for less.

There is a 'U-pull It' that I visit quite a bit and there are fortunately a dozen Gen2's Explorers sitting in there, plus quite a few Rangers. The laughable part is, most are early 90's units and all are electric! :eek:

Exactly that price is crazy for a stock shaft and I think it was even a dorman! Lol I couldn't see it more than $50-100 tops at the junk yard.
 






@bigred4x4 - if you do the 1354e swap, with a manual conversion, do you need to do all the stuff specified in this thread?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4405-to-1354-e-conversion.316510/

Seem like alot of work for a simple swap (electrically)...plus added expenditures and loss of features.

I posted earlier in this thread, if you use a GEM from a 2001? up sport (new body) in a 99 down sport you will lose nothing. You need a 1354E from an earlier Ex (91-94) and a double cardan shaft (91-96) if your speedo is in the tail shaft of the 4405(95-97) if your sport is 98 up, you can use the 1354E out of the newer sport, sport trac or ranger and the CV joint type front shaft and make the minor electrical mods outlined in the thread attached. The only reason to hack into the GEM wiring is for the 4 door functions. The sport conversion is easy peasy. I own one like this and have converted another for a friend.
 



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Thanks @Rockwood ... you have brought the faith back in me!

Good Stuff!!!

Thanks all.
 






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