How to: 1994 Head gasket replacement / engine pull

[mr cribb]

Any opinions on re-installing the harmonic balancer? Do these wear out?

If the rubber is cracked replace it. $60 on rock auto

 

[jd4242]

Parts are starting to arrive. Realizing I need to get ready to remove the harmonic balancer. Hopefully my electric impact will do the job.

Since the crank bolt is a TTY piece, I need to source a replacement. Going to try to find a part number from my FSM unless anybody has one.

Any opinions on re-installing the harmonic balancer? Do these wear out?

E7RY6A340B ford bolt part number

I dont think its necessary to replace the pulley but if you do,id replace it with a under drive pulley from ASP.they are not cheap tho

 

[arco777]

Just ordered one DAYCO PB1103N Harmonic Balancer. Dorman was cheaper but stock photo showed it painted baby blue... ugh. Never had bad luck with Dayco stuff. $57.79 on RA.

Also ordered a Ford E7RY-6A340-B Flanged Hex Bolt. FSM shows "6A340" for the bolt, so hopefully the extra numbers are correct. Cost me $8.65 shipped from a Ford dealer through Amazon.

Next question. FSM calls for use of two tools for installation.

• T90T-6701-A is a simple ring called a main seal install tool. Thinking I can skip that.
• T74P‑6019‑A, aka OTC 303-093 is a Front Cover Aligner. I believe this is only required when installing the seal with the timing cover still in place, like engine remaining in the vehicle. Correct?

 

[arco777]

E7RY6A340B ford bolt part number

I dont think its necessary to replace the pulley but if you do,id replace it with a under drive pulley from ASP.they are not cheap tho

Thanks JD4242 for confirming the part number, I was typing my last post while you replied

The ASP pulley is neat looking, but for $265 I just don't think the gains will be worth it for me. Already pulled the trigger on the Dayco part too.

 

[arco777]

If the rubber is cracked replace it. $60 on rock auto

It is indeed cracked.

Crank bolt is out. Rattled away at it with a Harbor Freight electric impact wrench to no effect. Heated it with a torch, tried again and it came right out.

This little torch is a hero. Dorman 86278.
If curious, the HF impact I'm using is a #61173. It's not the most powerful but for $50 it does the job, and is a great light duty unit if you don't have an air compressor.

 

[jd4242]

Thanks JD4242 for confirming the part number, I was typing my last post while you replied

The ASP pulley is neat looking, but for $265 I just don't think the gains will be worth it for me. Already pulled the trigger on the Dayco part too.

Yea i hear ya.its not cheap but i was seeing 2mpg increase=38 extra miles per tank.depending on your mpg thats big. Plus the extra power..lol

 

[mr cribb]

Yea i hear ya.its not cheap but i was seeing 2mpg increase=38 extra miles per tank.depending on your mpg thats big. Plus the extra power..lol

That wouldn't be a bad trade off. At stock height / tires/ gears I see 18 mpg 339 miles on a tank of gas (highway). I bet it doesn't take long to see the cost offset for the reward.

Imagine if a lift and larger tires, drops you 2 mpg, this would bring it back to stock figures. Seems kind of worth the investment.

 

[FR-425]

 

[jd4242]

Two caps are on their way.should be there monday:biggthump

 

[arco777]

You rock JD4242!

 

[arco777]

I've been averaging 15mpg in the Explorer lately. Before winter it was closer to 16mpg, and the best I ever managed was 16.5. It's got 3.27s and 30" tires. I do primarily city driving.

Bronco gets more like 12-13mpg. 15 if you're cruising.

 

[mr cribb]

What is the timing cover gasket/ front crank seal part number(s) you are using?

I see listing for with sleeve, and without.

 

[mr cribb]

I've been averaging 15mpg in the Explorer lately. Before winter it was closer to 16mpg, and the best I ever managed was 16.5. It's got 3.27s and 30" tires. I do primarily city driving.

Bronco gets more like 12-13mpg. 15 if you're cruising.

Wow... Sounds like you need some 3.73's

My mileage is 16 and 18 with 3.73's and stock size tires.

Your Bronco is still doing better than my Silverado, I have managed to get 11.5 out of it once. I think the TBI injection is junk.

 

[arco777]

What is the timing cover gasket/ front crank seal part number(s) you are using?

I see listing for with sleeve, and without.

Fel-Pro TCS45291

 

[sanek502008]

I read all the pages . Very interesting and informative. High-quality photos
Many thanks!

 

[natenkiki2004]

Wow... Sounds like you need some 3.73's

My mileage is 16 and 18 with 3.73's and stock size tires.

Your Bronco is still doing better than my Silverado, I have managed to get 11.5 out of it once. I think the TBI injection is junk.

I'm on 3.73 with stock size tires and get around 14. Most of my trips are relatively short though (about a mile into town), not much highway driving.

Be thankful your Silverado has TBI, the alternative of the Vortex injection is absolute garbage. TBI isn't as efficient but it's dead easy to fix/replace and pretty cheap too.

 

[mr cribb]

I'm on 3.73 with stock size tires and get around 14. Most of my trips are relatively short though (about a mile into town), not much highway driving.

Be thankful your Silverado has TBI, the alternative of the Vortex injection is absolute garbage. TBI isn't as efficient but it's dead easy to fix/replace and pretty cheap too.

Sad part is I have had two vortec motors. A 96 305 5 speed 2wd and a 97 350 4L60E 4x4. The 4x4 got me 18mpg with A/C on @75mph. The 2wd got me 20mpg.

The early vortec fueling was over engineered but it worked better than my current situation. I'm bout ready to scrap the injection and go for a carburetor.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Sad part is I have had two vortec motors. A 96 305 5 speed 2wd and a 97 350 4L60E 4x4. The 4x4 got me 18mpg with A/C on @75mph. The 2wd got me 20mpg.

The early vortec fueling was over engineered but it worked better than my current situation. I'm bout ready to scrap the injection and go for a carburetor.

I won't argue that the Vortec is more efficient, I'll agree with you there. The problem comes in when those systems break down. Lower intake WILL have to come off to fix issues with it and it's prone to issues. There's kits that will fix the problems but it's a ticking time bomb. On the flip side, rebuilding a TBI is very easy and rebuilt injectors are pretty cheap.

 

[mr cribb]

I guess. I'm still disappointed with mine. I've got a lot of money invested in my TBI and it still doesn't get better than 10mpg.

 

[arco777]

Excuse me, I thought this was a Ford forum

1. Loosen harmonic balancer bolt. I used some heat and an electric impact.

2-3. Get a puller kit. I rented one from a parts store.

4-5. Install puller. The bolts that come with it probably won't be long enough so find some that work to thread into the balancer. I used intake manifold bolts, but bent one, so a junkyard trip is planned.

Grease the threads on the main screw before installing it into the puller. I used anti-seize.

You're pushing off the old crank bolt, so unthread it a ways to give range of motion. Then screw the puller main screw against it.

It will go quite a ways off the crank so you'll have to stop to unscrew the crank bolt a couple times.

6. Eventually you will be able to remove the balancer by hand.

7. The balancer bolt is TTY so you'll need to replace it. It does have one more use still, if you're replacing your old balancer with a new one. Drop it into the backside of the balancer through the thick spacer. Use a hammer and the punch of your choice to beat on the bolt and knock the spacer out. If your new balancer doesn't come with a spacer (it should) then you'll need it; otherwise you have a nice spacer for your spare parts.