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How to: 1994 Head gasket replacement / engine pull

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What's the part number you got as the Felpro oil filter adapter O-Ring kit?

I don't think it's going to be complete.
 



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what's the part number you got as the felpro oil filter adapter o-ring kit?

I don't think it's going to be complete.

Fel-Pro 72884
 






There are two O-Rings on the bolt that holds the adapter to the block. I got them from Ford and only because they were able to transfer them from another dealer (i.e., didn't have to buy a bag of 10ea.) I don't recall anyone else having these O-Rings.

If you want the numbers, because I had to hunt them down as the counter guy at Ford couldn't find them, I'll try and remember to get them for you tonight.
 






There are two O-Rings on the bolt that holds the adapter to the block. I got them from Ford and only because they were able to transfer them from another dealer (i.e., didn't have to buy a bag of 10ea.) I don't recall anyone else having these O-Rings.

If you want the numbers, because I had to hunt them down as the counter guy at Ford couldn't find them, I'll try and remember to get them for you tonight.

I'm thankful for any info you have. There were two options on RockAuto, two different gaskets related to the oil filter adapter. I ordered the Fel-Pro one a few days ago, and just ordered the other Victor Reinz one. They're two different sizes so I'm hoping they're the two I need. Cheap at least.

Wanted the Ford rear main seal set, ordered it, RockAuto regretfully informed me it was out of stock after the fact so I ordered a Fel-Pro PTFE one instead.
 






Since I'm doing a re-ring and bearing, aka budget "rebuild", this thread is going further than changing head gaskets. FYI to anyone reading who is confused.

Removed the lifters. They just slide up out of their sockets. You want them to go back where they came from during re-assembly. It's not encouraged to re-use lifters, but I don't want to spend $400+ on a new set. These seem very healthy and I had no valvetrain noise. I plan to clean and re-use them.

Don't be an idiot like me and drop one. The little plastic bit broke off the end and now I've got to figure out what to do about a replacement. FOLLOW UP EDIT: The plastic cones on the lifters are simply to aid assembly at the factory. If you remove them, as long as you are careful to set the pushrod tip in the cup, you'll be fine without the cones.

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1-2. Flip engine. Remove oil pan. All of the hex head bolts except one were the same size. Short one is visible in pics 1 and 2, compared to a standard length. 10mm hex head. Nuts are 10mm as well.

3. Remove short torx head bolt. T-30. You'll want a good quality T-30 bit probably - mine was in tight and if I'd tried a hex it would have stripped.

4. Remove long torx head bolt. T-30.

5. Work pan off and remove all traces of the old gasket including sealers.
 

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I'd forgot, glad you posted.

These both go on the bolt that affixes the oil adapter to the engine.

E3TZ-6749-A $1.28
E9TZ-6749-A $2.15

Green and black O-Ring, zoom in on the bolt and you'll see them.

Also, the throttle body gasket wasn't available in town anywhere. I'd not remove unless you feel you need to. It was available special order.
 

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1. We've reached the inner sanctum... the bottom end.

2. Peek into the oil pickup screen. Any goodies in there?

3. Tweezers picked out this stuff. This is why RTV isn't good inside your engine.
And the ring? I know EXACTLY what that is. It's a washer from a Fel-Pro valve cover gasket set, made to fit into the gasket around a bolt hole to keep from squishing the gasket. I blame myself only 50% for this.

4. Since a new oil pickup is $50, I'll be removing mine and cleaning it out. Three T-30 torx bolts attach it to the oil pump.

5. Removing the windage tray/crank scraper. 4 nuts. 13mm socket seemed to fit fine.

6. Bottom end is fully exposed now.

7. Observation. Scratches on the shelf in the oil pan. The dipstick is supposed to go through the hole. It hasn't been, it is sticking onto the shelf. Not a big deal...

8. Except on the windage tray, more scratches - half the time, the dipstick isn't even getting past the windage tray and it's getting dangerously close to where the connecting rod is spinning. Doesn't seem to have made contact yet but it's way too close for comfort. I'll be straightening or replacing the dipstick for sure! EDIT: Straightening it worked fine.

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I'd forgot, glad you posted.

These both go on the bolt that affixes the oil adapter to the engine.

E3TZ-6749-A $1.28
E9TZ-6749-A $2.15

Green and black O-Ring, zoom in on the bolt and you'll see them.

Also, the throttle body gasket wasn't available in town anywhere. I'd not remove unless you feel you need to. It was available special order.

Thanks Number4. I'll see what happens on the O-rings. I might be lucky and have the right ones. Both Ford numbers cross reference on RockAuto to the same Victor Reinz 17mm gasket I bought, and the Fel-Pro is a different size.

I left my throttle body attached to the intake for that reason. I've had little trouble getting a Fel-Pro stock replacement, but at the moment I have a larger BBK throttle body. The gasket is unique and I'll probably be making a replacement out of a gasket material sheet when the time comes.
 






I'm really mad at myself for dropping that lifter. It was so stupid - I rotated the motor on the stand without removing lifters first and luckily only one fell out. I'm torn on what to do. I don't want to replace one lifter, nor do I want to spend $100 on eBay lifters that might be junk. My lifters seem really healthy.

I think what I need to do is find an Explorer in the junkyard and steal a lifter out of it, for the plastic cap.

Thoughts?

EDIT: Lifter turned out to be fine. The cone shaped "cap" isn't an important part and can be safely removed if you are careful to re-seat the pushrod on re-assembly.
 






I dropped mine in sand which baggies. One, went right through the baggy. I froze and panicked. Luckily it wasn't very high off the ground and suffered no damage.
 






Just checked all my connecting rod bearings. Pulled one main cap bearing as well to inspect. Loving how Ford made them idiot-proof by numbering everything.

Everything looks awesome. Looks more like 50K miles than 200k miles. Feeling a little better. :)

Waiting on parts to arrive. Also need to acquire some sort of puller for the harmonic balancer so I can get the timing cover off and evaluate my timing set. Got a little freaked out by what looked like chunks of metal on the timing cover - realized it was casting imperfections.
 






I dropped mine in sand which baggies. One, went right through the baggy. I froze and panicked. Luckily it wasn't very high off the ground and suffered no damage.

Did you re-use your lifters?
 






Mine has 137k on it and had no wear issues. I saw no reason to replace them. I also didn't want to invest a ton of money into a car that gets less than 1k miles a year.
 






This is going to help me. Although I'm not too far behind. My driveline is already out, and after inspecting stuff I'm gonna bite the bullet and pull the motor as well so I can service a few oil leaks (oil pan and main seals).

Now the more I dwell on it, I'm going to to do a light overhaul/ upgrade since I will have access to everything.
 






I'm really mad at myself for dropping that lifter. It was so stupid - I rotated the motor on the stand without removing lifters first and luckily only one fell out. I'm torn on what to do. I don't want to replace one lifter, nor do I want to spend $100 on eBay lifters that might be junk. My lifters seem really healthy.

I think what I need to do is find an Explorer in the junkyard and steal a lifter out of it, for the plastic cap.

Thoughts?
I probably have a spare cap..PM me..

Also i made this awile ago on how to clean lifters,no issues using used lifters if they are cleaned and still function. .

https://youtu.be/fLT9QVw7YYM

https://youtu.be/xfx0-iGaUpA
 












Thanks, you've got a PM. And thanks for the vids!

Not a problem. .let me know if you have any questions or need anything else
 






Parts are starting to arrive. Realizing I need to get ready to remove the harmonic balancer. Hopefully my electric impact will do the job.

Since the crank bolt is a TTY piece, I need to source a replacement. Going to try to find a part number from my FSM unless anybody has one.

Any opinions on re-installing the harmonic balancer? Do these wear out? EDIT: Answer is yes, they can separate. I installed a new one.
 



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The bolt is $7 at Ford. It's the same one used up to at least 2005. If the balancer is OE I'd replace it.
 






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