1994 Ranger 4.0 - Exhaust Advice

[fiftyfordfloored]

On my 1994 Ranger 4.0L, the exhaust was wasted, so I'm redoing the whole thing. I'm putting Pacesetter headers and y-pipe on, a Magnaflow cat, and I'm debating on the cat back portion of the exhaust. I know Dynomax has a kit that's 2.25" inch pipe, but the intermediate pipe going from the converter to the muffler they say to use the factory piece, which is 2". Seems to defy logic to shrink from 2.5" to 2" and then enlarge the pipe to 2.25" again, as the outlet of the converter is 2.5". Looks like Gibson makes one that's 2.5" all the way back, but I'm concerned with loosing too much back pressure. Any thoughts?

I should ad, I'm not looking for all out performance, but rather a bit of performance but mostly the fuel economy boost. I used this setup on my Explorer and it made a huge difference (17 mpg up to 20-21 mpg highway), but IIRC the Dynomax I used on the Explorer was 2.25" from the converter all the way back.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I have a Gibson cat-back system on order right now for my 04 3.0 Ranger.
It's2.5" all the way from the cat outlet. I have similar 2.5 systems on both
my Explorer Sports, and have noticed a slight seat-of-the-pants power gain.
I agree that necking down to 2" pipe between the cat and muffler is not a
good idea. Going with a 2.25" tailpipe won't hurt, but it's been my experience
that the difference between 2.25 and 2.5 pipes as far as power and torque goes
is minimal if at all.

I like the Gibson mufflers. They are advertised to perform in the low to mid-range
rpms, and seem to do this.

 

[Anime]

I'd skip the Pacesetter headers on a street-driven vehicle unless you are planning to get new heads and have them ported and polished to get additional intake airflow. The stock exhaust manifolds on the 4.0L actually flow about the same as headers, given the low RPM nature of the engine. If you got a deal on the Pacesetters and want to use it instead of buying new manifolds and a Y-pipe, I guess that works.

The Magnaflow cat should be good, just make sure you get a 2.5" 3-way converter (since that's the stock size and the tubing has to be ovalized to fit the Y-pipe) and have it placed where the 1st converter is in the stock 2-cat system so it gets hot enough during operation to work correctly. Placing it too far back in the system will keep it too cool and it won't get hot enough to convert the exhaust gases.


The main reason Dynomax uses the stock 2" Walker intermediate pipe for going into their cat-back systems on Fords is that it just isn't worth their time to custom-make the various sizes/lengths since the Rangers/B4000s/Explorers/Navajos/etc have different pipe lengths based on 2 door/4 door or short/long bed configuration. They can produce a cat-back system with an off-the-shelf muffler and just bending up the tailpipe, throw in some clamps, and they are done.

Since the sytems for the '93-97 Ranger use a muffler with a 2.25" inlet/outlet and a reducer is used to adapt the stock 2" pipe to the 2.25" muffler inlet, the easy way around this is to just get a 2.25" pipe and use it for the intermediate pipe instead. Since you are re-doing the entire exhaust, and especially since you are getting an aftermarket converter, just have the shop custom make flanged 2.25" pipes between the converter outlet and muffler inlet. This will allow you to still remove the system if ever needed (fully welded systems are not good when it comes to replacing cat-back systems yourself, should you ever need to warranty the muffler or replace the rear pipe) and you will get the best flow possible.

I'd also suggest getting Walker band clamps to use when clamping the muffler to the pipes, or have the shop weld flanges onto the muffler and pipes during final assembly and use those. Using the stock crush-style clamps squeezes the 2.25 pipe down to 2" or so and creates a choke point in the system, and disrupts airflow. Keeping the exhaust pipes uncrushed makes a pretty big difference in flow.

The Dynomax system is the one to get if you want a deep, low exhaust note and a kind-of-quiet system that still flows really well. 2.25" pipe is all you need since exhaust gases cool as they move along in the system. Some people have had good luck with the Gibson systems, but their round muffler design, the restrictive internal louvres, and the overly large 2.5" tubing were drawbacks for me. I've also had nothing but outstanding customer service from Walker/Dynomax when replacing products under warranty (Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers have a lifetime warranty, even against rust-through) so it's easy for me to recommend their products.

Also keep in mind, buying these systems for older vehicles keeps them in production - when they don't sell enough of certain systems, they tend to be discontinued. Buying one ensures they will be available for other Ranger owners down the road.

 

[fiftyfordfloored]

I like the Pacesetter setup, like I said, I've had them before and a noticeable difference. My 4.0L Explorer rocked with that setup. I'm only debating on the post catalytic exhaust, because I don't feel like making up a pipe for a Dynomax cat back, I just want to put it on. I had a Dynomax on my Explorer and that seemed fine, but there's no way I want a piece of 2" exhaust in this system. I've installed and used Gibson products building custom exhausts before and I love the sound of their mufflers. I might just go with the Gibson single out. Nothing crazy, I don't need duals.

 

[Anime]

Are you getting the OE-style 2-converter replacement Magnaflow catalytic converter assembly? That's about the only way that a bolt-on intermediate pipe is going to be the issue, since a shop is likely going to have an easier time just making a custom 2.25" pipe from the converter pipe to the muffler inlet if you're getting a single 3-way Magnaflow cat.

If you are getting the OE-style assembly, I'd say the best thing is to find an exhaust shop that does mandrel bending, and have them make a copy of the stock intermediate pipe, just in 2.25" size.

The Gibson might be the way to go if you don't want to deal with anything custom, but I do think the 17747 muffler that comes with the Dynomax system is about as good as it gets for the 4.0L in terms of flow and sound. I had the Gibson and it was too much like a glasspack, with a lot of gurgling and popping, and drone at many different cruising speeds.

 

[fiftyfordfloored]

It's a Magnaflow 23388, stock style. I've fabricated many exhaust systems, but this time I don't really have the time or the shop space anymore so I want to bolt it on and go. I've never had a problem with any Gibson product as far as fit or quality so I am leaning towards that. But you're right, I did love the sound of the Dynomax. Just a little bit louder then stock with good tone and no drone. If they included the intermediate pipe, I would definitely order the Dynomax kit, but I'm not putting a factory 2" intermediate on there, no way.

 

[Anime]

You might also consider researching the Dynomax systems for the 1995-2011 Ranger, it seems the 1995+ Ranger cat-back systems have mandrel-bent 2.25" Dynomax intermediate pipes.

It may be that you could get one of those intermediate pipes, and either get it to work with a slight repositioning of the muffler, or get one of the shorter 2.25" intermediate pipes, and then simply bolt on a length of straight 2.25" tubing into the muffler inlet.

Since both the '93-94 17402 kit and '95-97 17318 kit both use the same 44364 rear pipe, I'd also guess that the complete 17318 system would even be a straight bolt-on, aside from having to use the muffler hanger from a '95-97 since they are different than the hangers on a '93-94 that are on the intermediate pipe itself. Dynomax does make bolt-on clamps with welded-on hangers that might work to use the stock '93-94 hangers with the '95-97 intermediate pipe, either that or just bend some 1/4-3/8" steel rod and have it welded on, or take off the stock hanger and weld it onto the new pipe, but you wanted bolt on and go.

Seems that even the 1998+ systems will fit on a '94, with only slight mods: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84832&page=5 (see post #45 ).

There's usually a way to mix and match Dynomax parts from different model years to get a full 2.25" system instead of having to use the smaller 2" stock pipes, but it takes some time and research, and a way to get the parts to test the fit and return them if they don't.

 

[fiftyfordfloored]

You might also consider researching the Dynomax systems for the 1995-2011 Ranger, it seems the 1995+ Ranger cat-back systems have mandrel-bent 2.25" Dynomax intermediate pipes.

It may be that you could get one of those intermediate pipes, and either get it to work with a slight repositioning of the muffler, or get one of the shorter 2.25" intermediate pipes, and then simply bolt on a length of straight 2.25" tubing into the muffler inlet.

Since both the '93-94 17402 kit and '95-97 17318 kit both use the same 44364 rear pipe, I'd also guess that the complete 17318 system would even be a straight bolt-on, aside from having to use the muffler hanger from a '95-97 since they are different than the hangers on a '93-94 that are on the intermediate pipe itself. Dynomax does make bolt-on clamps with welded-on hangers that might work to use the stock '93-94 hangers with the '95-97 intermediate pipe, either that or just bend some 1/4-3/8" steel rod and have it welded on, or take off the stock hanger and weld it onto the new pipe, but you wanted bolt on and go.

Seems that even the 1998+ systems will fit on a '94, with only slight mods: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84832&page=5 (see post #45 ).

There's usually a way to mix and match Dynomax parts from different model years to get a full 2.25" system instead of having to use the smaller 2" stock pipes, but it takes some time and research, and a way to get the parts to test the fit and return them if they don't.

Adding and moving hangers isn't a huge deal. That 17318 kit looks like it would work pretty well.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Christmas came late

The Gibson cat-back was delivered today, and it's a good looking kit.
There were a couple differences from the Explorer kits. The biggest I
see is the two-piece tailpipe. Don't know why it's in two pieces; maybe
for ease of installation over the axle or to allow easy adjustment of the
side pipe. Also, the muffler is held up by a hanger at the outlet end of
the muffler, rather than by a strap attached around the center of the muffler.

A nice intermediate pipe is included that fits between the cat and muffler,
about 12-14" long. It's 2.5" inside diameter, as is all the piping.
If new spring bolts are needed for the cat flange, Walker offers a pair
with part number 36129.

The muffler is a Gibson SFT #788200S (stainless) which looks to be the
same as what's in the Explorer kits.

Anime suggested using SS band clamps for exhaust installation, and I
heartily agree. For this kit 3 are needed, 2 for the muffler and 1 for
connecting the 2-piece tailpipe. (2.5" lap joint clamps)

Hope to get this installed in the next few days, and will report back how it
goes...

 

[delexploder]

I used ss band clamps on the outlets of my muffler and they work very well, I designed my exhaust so I could take it apart and have been able to do so several times with ease, I also used ball flanges on the inputs of the muffler and outputs of the cats , all 2.5 in stainless magnaflow all tig welded

 

[Anime]

The Gibson cat-back was delivered today, and it's a good looking kit.
There were a couple differences from the Explorer kits. The biggest I
see is the two-piece tailpipe. Don't know why it's in two pieces; maybe
for ease of installation over the axle or to allow easy adjustment of the
side pipe. Also, the muffler is held up by a hanger at the outlet end of
the muffler, rather than by a strap attached around the center of the muffler.

The two-piece tailpipe is mainly to make it more compact for shipping. The tailpipe never fit correctly on the kit I had, no matter what angles I tried. Another reason I went with the Dynomax instead.

A nice intermediate pipe is included that fits between the cat and muffler, about 12-14" long. It's 2.5" inside diameter, as is all the piping.
If new spring bolts are needed for the cat flange, Walker offers a pair
with part number 36129.

You can also get the spring bolts at most auto parts stores in the Dorman HELP! section, the only bolts they have with "Ford" on the package fit perfectly, but just have a larger diameter bolt head than factory.

The muffler is a Gibson SFT #788200S (stainless) which looks to be the
same as what's in the Explorer kits.

Do those mufflers still have the louvres inside the straight-through tube that stick into the airflow?

Anime suggested using SS band clamps for exhaust installation, and I
heartily agree. For this kit 3 are needed, 2 for the muffler and 1 for
connecting the 2-piece tailpipe. (2.5" lap joint clamps)

You will probably need 1 butt-joint band clamp for the 2-piece tailpipe, since it's slip-fit design is just connecting two pipes of the same outer diameter.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The two-piece tailpipe is mainly to make it more compact for shipping. The tailpipe never fit correctly on the kit I had, no matter what angles I tried. Another reason I went with the Dynomax instead.

Ah ha....you're probably right, shorter package makes for lower shipping cost.
I liked my Explorer kits, but they did have one piece tailpipes. I'll report back
on the fit.

You can also get the spring bolts at most auto parts stores in the Dorman HELP! section, the only bolts they have with "Ford" on the package fit perfectly, but just have a larger diameter bolt head than factory.

Good to know. I ordered these from Summit.

Do those mufflers still have the louvres inside the straight-through tube that stick into the airflow?

Yes they do. They're aligned in a spiral pattern which looks to be designed to
promote a vortex-type airflow. I don't know if they work or just cause restriction. I have an SFT on one Explorer and a Borla on another, and can't tell
much if any difference between the two. Both mufflers give better low-end
throttle response than the stock muffler, however.

You will probably need 1 butt-joint band clamp for the 2-piece tailpipe, since it's slip-fit design is just connecting two pipes of the same outer diameter.

I checked this, and it looks like one pipe end is expanded to fit over the other,
so a lap joint should work. Thanks for the warning, I hate to get into a job and
find I have the wrong part.

I used ss band clamps on the outlets of my muffler and they work very well, I designed my exhaust so I could take it apart and have been able to do so several times with ease, I also used ball flanges on the inputs of the muffler and outputs of the cats , all 2.5 in stainless magnaflow all tig welded

Sounds like a good set-up. I'm a sucker for trying different mufflers and like to
have a system that's easy to disassemble too. SS band clamps are great.