1996 EB Explorer EATC

[ThreeJs]

I lost power to my AC compressor and after doing tests I'm positive it is the EATC unit.

My research leads me to believe Explorers have different EATC units. One for 95-97 Explorers and one for the later 98-up and they are not interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this?

Used ones online are pricey, around $200. I'll be heading to the salvage yard to look for one in the correct years.

Any other vehicles I can look in that interchange?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes you are correct, the 95-01's had different EATC's. The 98-01's have green displays, should be swappable amongst those years, and are pulse width modulated fan controlled. The earlier models have prior technology fan control in them, and are blue displays. I know the 95's have unique face/buttons versus the 96+ models, so I am kind of sure you can't use a 95 EATC.

I'd contact a number of the repair businesses who advertise repairs of Ford EATC's. If they can repair yours, the cost is typically not that high. But I think there is a limited number of things they can fix internally, which varies by each model of EATC. So you might have to contact many shops who don't actually mention your model by name(description).

Please post back here if you discover a business which can repair your EATC unit, or other similar Explorer units. That may help others here a bunch in the future. Regards,

 

[ThreeJs]

Looks like I found someone parting out a 96 Explorer.
What tools will I need to pull the EATC unit.
From what I can tell: for the radio bezel.
A 7mm socket
A small flat screwdriver

For the eatc unit?
A 8 or 10 mm? Where are the bolts?? looks like front on the sides

 

[John Quinn]

I just went through the same problem in my 96. I removed the EATC and took it apart after reading about possible cold solder joints. Before I could grab a magnifying glass, there was an obvious cold joint plainly visible. I put a dab of flux on it and resoldered the contact. Reconnected it in the dash and voila, the pump kicked in.
It's worth a look. Apparently it's a common problem.

 

[J_C]

If you're willing, and possibly it might require use of a multimeter and soldering iron, sometimes I can diagnose and help repair PCBs over the internet if the pictures of the circuit are good. Then again I don't have a wiring diagram for the EATC version of the A/C so if you can find one that could make the difference.

It's probably just a cracked solder joint or fried transistor, ranging from somewhere between free to $5 in parts to fix.

 

[CDW6212R]

Looks like I found someone parting out a 96 Explorer.
What tools will I need to pull the EATC unit.
From what I can tell: for the radio bezel.
A 7mm socket
A small flat screwdriver

For the eatc unit?
A 8 or 10 mm? Where are the bolts?? looks like front on the sides

The four EATC bolts will be 8 or 7mm. You will possibly need a radio tool to get that out before the bezel. On the back of the EATC, is a vacuum connection with two twisting clamps/nuts. Those can be removed with a socket of about 10mm or so, or a pliers, or less likely by fingers.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you're willing, and possibly it might require use of a multimeter and soldering iron, sometimes I can diagnose and help repair PCBs over the internet if the pictures of the circuit are good. Then again I don't have a wiring diagram for the EATC version of the A/C so if you can find one that could make the difference.

It's probably just a cracked solder joint or fried transistor, ranging from somewhere between free to $5 in parts to fix.

I think the early Explorer EATC's(95-97) had full high current going through them to the AC clutch. If you can find that out, fix that potential issue by adding a relay. High current will cause the failure internally of that power circuit, eventually. It's easier to solve by installing a relay out near the battery and AC clutch wiring. Then simply cut the OEM clutch wire, trigger the relay with it, and feed the clutch with the other end.

I did that with my 91 Lincoln, the EATC is obsolete and tough to find repair help. Testing showed a voltage still coming from the EATC, but it wasn't enough to power the clutch(but a couple of moments). It works fine to trigger a relay, and will likely last forever that way.

 

[J_C]

^ I'm not clear on what you mean. Trigger the new external relay how? Seems like if you want to retain the function of the EATC, then the EATC would have to trigger the relay rather than handling all the current itself, but it still means the EATC needs restored to working order to do that?

 

[ThreeJs]

The four EATC bolts will be 8 or 7mm. You will possibly need a radio tool to get that out before the bezel. On the back of the EATC, is a vacuum connection with two twisting clamps/nuts. Those can be removed with a socket of about 10mm or so, or a pliers, or less likely by fingers.

So I was correct with the radio bezel.
two 7mm screws and a flat screwdriver to pop off bezel.
Radio comes out with bezel. Just disconnect all connectors on both sides and remove as an assembly.
Four EATC screws were 7mm and the vacuum connection was two 10mm speed nuts.

Once I get the old one out I will try to get it open and get a pic to see if anything is obviously burnt.

 

[CDW6212R]

^ I'm not clear on what you mean. Trigger the new external relay how? Seems like if you want to retain the function of the EATC, then the EATC would have to trigger the relay rather than handling all the current itself, but it still means the EATC needs restored to working order to do that?

I'm referring only to the AC compressor power wire. Older Fords all run full current through the AC head unit, just like head lights. Over time the current damages the control unit, like the head light switch dying on an old car. In the mid/late 90's Ford began using many more relays outside of the control units, which makes those more reliable, and adds relays that have to be maintained(but easier and cheaper to do that). This just means that in the future we will be replacing relays much more, but far fewer switches etc, which are more rare or obsolete then.

So the EATC likely does run full current through it to the compressor, hell even the 98+ versions might. 1998 was when the PWM fan control began which makes that a little more reliable.

My 91 Lincoln EATC has no official repair places to take them too, so repairing those is basically replacing them. Mine works fine except it won't power the AC compressor. So I used the OEM power wire that still has a small voltage coming through it, to trigger a relay near the compressor. This EATC might last the life of the car given the low current it passes through it now.

 

[J_C]

^ Okay you are describing an unexpected condition where your EATC "still has a small voltage coming through it" in order to trigger the relay.

Whether the EATC can be repaired, depends on what's inside and the skills and tools the person has. I imagine it is nothing more than replacing a transistor or relay. Would an external relay last longer? Possibly, but we don't know if ThreeJs' EATC is passing enough current to trigger an external relay.

If the original relay or transistor lasted 24 years, another 24 years might be long enough.

If it's a standard relay in the EATC, Digikey.com might be a good place to find a replacement with the same footprint and pin arrangement. If it's a transistor it gets easier as those don't typically come in unusual configurations, anything compatible would work.

 

[J_C]

There are two people in the following topic that only had to reflow solder on a bad solder joint on the EATC relay.

How many problems do I have?

How many problems do I have?

The following repair site shows a picture, which if it's the same design, shows the relay in the top middle of the PCB:

Ford Lincoln Mercury Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) – Climate Control Rebuild | ModuleMaster

 

[CDW6212R]

I would much prefer to have the main control circuits working right, repaired if possible. That EATC picture there looks similar to one I bought as a spare, the shipper used a little shredded newspaper for packing, and the housing was broken completely.

I hope these EATC models can be maintained for a long time to come. I have three Explorers with them, and plan to install one into my 92 Lincoln, if possible.

 

[Cuco]

If you're willing, and possibly it might require use of a multimeter and soldering iron, sometimes I can diagnose and help repair PCBs over the internet if the pictures of the circuit are good. Then again I don't have a wiring diagram for the EATC version of the A/C so if you can find one that could make the difference.

It's probably just a cracked solder joint or fried transistor, ranging from somewhere between free to $5 in parts to fix.

What is EATC means?

 

[Cuco]

What is EATC means?

I think I can help

 

[Cuco]

I would much prefer to have the main control circuits working right, repaired if possible. That EATC picture there looks similar to one I bought as a spare, the shipper used a little shredded newspaper for packing, and the housing was broken completely.

I hope these EATC models can be maintained for a long time to come. I have three Explorers with them, and plan to install one into my 92 Lincoln, if possible.

 

[Cuco]

This is the Ford dealer manual. I hope this helps you

 

[Cuco]

If you need more pictures of Manual I can help just let me know

 

[ThreeJs]

EATC - Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

Well, I replaced the EATC unit with the one from the parted out Explorer, a vehicle with 70K original miles.
Works like it should now. A steal at $15!
Any value in the old EATC unit? It worked well except for not sending the signal to the compressor. It's a two year only 96-97 EATC unit that is red in color.

If the replacement lasts half as long as the original I'll still be way ahead.

Going to try and get the two front seats also. They're in better shape, and the spare tire. My spare is missing/never had one.

 

[Cuco]

EATC - Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

Well, I replaced the EATC unit with the one from the parted out Explorer, a vehicle with 70K original miles.
Works like it should now. A steal at $15!
Any value in the old EATC unit? It worked well except for not sending the signal to the compressor. It's a two year only 96-97 EATC unit that is red in color.

If the replacement lasts half as long as the original I'll still be way ahead.

Going to try and get the two front seats also. They're in better shape, and the spare tire. My spare is missing/never had one.

$15 WOW , nice
I will be stripping the car for parts cause I’m trying to rebuild my 96 Ford explore