koda2000
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Last winter the nylon gear inside my EATC blend door actuator stripped, which I know is pretty much the way they fail ('01 Explorer EB). It had started making the clunk, clunk noise when operating, so I knew the gear had stripped. I removed the actuator and took it apart to verify that the gear had stripped, and it had.
As I didn't feel like screwing with replacing the actuator last winter, I wired the blend door open so that I would get heat. When the hot weather rolled around last spring I just wired the blend door closed so I'd get A/C. Good enough.
After considerable research into which replacement actuator to purchase I found that the Dorman 604-201 actuator should work once the plastic base was removed. The current price was $17.07 and I had points available on my Amazon/Chase card so I bought the actuator for $3.80 with free Prime shipping.
Today I decided to install the new actuator. Before bolting it down I decided to test it. Even with the engine up to normal operating temperature moving the EATC temp setting did not move the actuator's shaft in either direction. I then plugged in my old stripped actuator to see if the motor ran. It did not.
WTF? I checked ALL my fuses and they all tested good. I then tested the electrical connector with my VOM and regardless of where I moved the temp setting I don't see any voltage on any wire socket (at one point I thought I saw 5 volts on one wire, but I could not repeat that reading).
After my old actuator's gear stripped last winter I'd just unplugged the actuator's electrical connector and left it hanging there. I don't see why this should have hurt anything. Tomorrow I'm going to test the old and new actuators on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer (w/EATC) and see what happens. I'll also run the EATC self-test after I look up how to do it again.
Anyone have any idea what's going on?
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I believe I figured this out.
If you've used the EATC controls w/out a working blend door actuator being connected, it sets trouble codes (24, 25 and 52) codes 24 and 25 are related to a fault in the blend door actuator. IDK what 52 means.
I then connected my new blend door actuator to its electrical connector and reran the test. I could hear the actuator's motor whirring and I saw the shaft more. I still received error codes 24 and 25 at the completion of the self-test, but not code 52.
Lastly, I turned off the ignition, turned it back to ON, turned off the EATC, reran the self-test (press OFF and FLOOR together, then press DEFROST to begin the self-test) the blend door actuator shaft moved in both directions and then I received the test normal (888) on the EATC display.
The other day someone had asked if the EATC needed to be reset after replacing the blend door actuator. I told him no. I was apparently wrong. My apologies. I will try to locate this thread and edit it.
@kingrancher01 @GLOCKer was it either of you who asked about resetting the EATC?
As I didn't feel like screwing with replacing the actuator last winter, I wired the blend door open so that I would get heat. When the hot weather rolled around last spring I just wired the blend door closed so I'd get A/C. Good enough.
After considerable research into which replacement actuator to purchase I found that the Dorman 604-201 actuator should work once the plastic base was removed. The current price was $17.07 and I had points available on my Amazon/Chase card so I bought the actuator for $3.80 with free Prime shipping.
Today I decided to install the new actuator. Before bolting it down I decided to test it. Even with the engine up to normal operating temperature moving the EATC temp setting did not move the actuator's shaft in either direction. I then plugged in my old stripped actuator to see if the motor ran. It did not.
WTF? I checked ALL my fuses and they all tested good. I then tested the electrical connector with my VOM and regardless of where I moved the temp setting I don't see any voltage on any wire socket (at one point I thought I saw 5 volts on one wire, but I could not repeat that reading).
After my old actuator's gear stripped last winter I'd just unplugged the actuator's electrical connector and left it hanging there. I don't see why this should have hurt anything. Tomorrow I'm going to test the old and new actuators on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer (w/EATC) and see what happens. I'll also run the EATC self-test after I look up how to do it again.
Anyone have any idea what's going on?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I believe I figured this out.
If you've used the EATC controls w/out a working blend door actuator being connected, it sets trouble codes (24, 25 and 52) codes 24 and 25 are related to a fault in the blend door actuator. IDK what 52 means.
I then connected my new blend door actuator to its electrical connector and reran the test. I could hear the actuator's motor whirring and I saw the shaft more. I still received error codes 24 and 25 at the completion of the self-test, but not code 52.
Lastly, I turned off the ignition, turned it back to ON, turned off the EATC, reran the self-test (press OFF and FLOOR together, then press DEFROST to begin the self-test) the blend door actuator shaft moved in both directions and then I received the test normal (888) on the EATC display.
The other day someone had asked if the EATC needed to be reset after replacing the blend door actuator. I told him no. I was apparently wrong. My apologies. I will try to locate this thread and edit it.
@kingrancher01 @GLOCKer was it either of you who asked about resetting the EATC?