1996 Head gasket ?? | Ford Explorer Forums

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1996 Head gasket ??

Briansrv

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Joined
October 10, 2017
Messages
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City, State
Pompano Beach Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer xlt
good morning everyone, I picked up a 96 4x4 4.0 Explorer with 120k from original owner for 1600. It’s in good shape for its age but was running rough. I took it to my mechanic this morning because battery light came on. Mechanic said it needs battery, alternator and tune-up which is fine but also said it needs a new head gasket. Truck is not leaking any fluids, ac works great and temp seems ok as well. It is a little sluggish but I assume that will clear up a bit with a tune up. I texted the former owner because I have only had truck 10 days and he says they are trying to rip me off at the shop and that he had replaced hoses and radiator flushed recently. Other than a second opinion, what can I check to confirm if it’s bad or not? Thanks for your help
 



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If you trust the guy that you bought it from, he definitely woudn't leave out the blown head gasket detail when he sold it. Lots of things can cause the car to run roughly. Try unbolting the alternator and taking it to an auto parts store, they'll test it for free. If it turns out to be good then I'd take everything that mechanic said with a grain of salt. They'll also hook an OBD scanner up to it that might shed some light on the real cause of the rough engine. I'd definitely rule out as much as I can before putting on a new head gasket, weather you do it yourself or not it's a huge pain in the ass
 






There are 2 tests you could perform but would need to purchase ( or rent) the tools.

Coolant system pressure test would confirm a coolant system leak. Using dye in the coolant and looking for the presence of the dye in the cylinders or oil

Compression check. Cylinders should all be within 10% or less of each other. If there is one which reads real low, check that cylinder real well for presence of the dye used earlier.
 






The battery light comes on when the alternator isn't charging the battery. It (by itself) doesn't necessarily mean the battery is bad. I'd take the battery and alternator and get them tested to be sure. There can be many reasons that a good alternator doesn't charge the battery, most of them wiring or fuse related.

As far as a blown head gasket, that would not be unusual for an OHV 4.0L V6, especially one that's 21 years old. Neither is a cracked head, but I don't trust mechanics, so I'd like to see what he's basing his conclusion on. Is there oil in the coolant? Is there coolant in the oil? Are there visible signs of a leak? Are there bubbles in the radiator with the cap removed and the engine running? His he performed a compression test?

If it is a head gasket on an OHV engine (or even a cracked head), that's not that big a deal. On a SOHC... I'd junk it.

My advice is to not spend money w/out knowing exactly what your dealing with. Performing proper diagnostics are the key to not spending money needlessly.
 






What Turdle said, also a leakdown test.

Also there is this option. Download this software: http://forscan.org/download.html

Purchase and inexpensive OBD-II dongle. The BAFX one on amazon is what I have.

Scan for pending codes. (will do it automatically)
Monitor the Misfire counters (it will read for each cylinder).. Also fuel trim, BARO, and maybe others.
Misfire counters do not mean the engine is bad, but can point you where to look. You may have a bad wire for example. Sometimes there are a few at startup, but if its not excessive, it is ok.

These engines are stout. Headgasket is rare, unless it was overheated. Their Achellies heel is a cracked head, but I think it would have to overheat. New Heads are not expensive.

P.S> It is worth to repair. You are lucky you don't have the SOHC.
 






If the voltage gauge reads normal, you probably don't need an alternator. It is a real gauge. If the light is on, check the single wire connection on the alternator. I know I had an issue with mine.
 






also check the alternator fuse in the fuse panel. It may be labeled "generator "

Fuse number 17 according to this

https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+ford+explorer+fuse+panel&tbm=isch&source=iu&pf=m&ictx=1&fir=B4ok_ZPeVlbn_M%3A%2CLmLw5YKaXbMArM%2C_&usg=__ecxsq_GNt_1QJVYJL6JUSFdqty0=&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiA95yvxebWAhUM64MKHTpXDyYQ9QEIKDAA#imgrc=EtaWKHrme_iE4M:

fuse panel 1996 explorer.gif
 






Thank you for all your advice. I was texting with the previous owner who feels supremely sure that there is no head gasket issue and the mechanic is trying to rip me off. they barely had the car an hour before they called and said there is a head gasket problem. he said the hoses were rock hard while it was running and their was steam ? in the radiator. I am probably to late now for the alternator battery double check as I am sure they already changed them out. they are also doing a full tune up on it as it was very sluggish and seemed to sucking down a lot of gas. I am going to get a second opinion on the motor when I get it back. I bought the truck because I have had good luck with explorers in the past. Our car was recently totaled, we are upside down and I had to buy a inexpensive car for the interim as we cant afford 3 car payments till all the lawyer stuff is figured out.
 






Thank you for all your advice. I was texting with the previous owner who feels supremely sure that there is no head gasket issue and the mechanic is trying to rip me off. they barely had the car an hour before they called and said there is a head gasket problem. he said the hoses were rock hard while it was running and their was steam ? in the radiator. I am probably to late now for the alternator battery double check as I am sure they already changed them out. they are also doing a full tune up on it as it was very sluggish and seemed to sucking down a lot of gas. I am going to get a second opinion on the motor when I get it back. I bought the truck because I have had good luck with explorers in the past. Our car was recently totaled, we are upside down and I had to buy a inexpensive car for the interim as we cant afford 3 car payments till all the lawyer stuff is figured out.
There are a few little things but otherwise I really have no complaints about this truck. If you can check the scan data and fix the issues it runs as good as new. For example, I found a worn EGR valve. $40 and it was fixed. Then there were $5 intake plenum gaskets. It was drivable without that but it is perfect now.

There are steam issues with our engine, but it don't seem to affect it. There was some TSB and a optional bypass kit. It has a weird coolant system. I think some of the bypass goes thru the heater core. I found Stant Superstats work very well.
 






Can I make a sweeping statement?

OP is likely to find that a 21 year old "bargain" vehicle gets to be incredibly expensive *unless one does one's own repair work.* Of course, not everyone has a place to work, but when I think of the amount of work that is likely to be required on an old truck like this (and I have one myself), and I think of the per hour price of shop labor, I think..."money pit."
 






I get it.... believe me. I was kinda stuck having to buy something for cash and relatively quickly. The few other cars I looked at were even worse seemingly. I picked the truck up. Runs a little better. Not leaking, ac is kicking, temp gauge never hit midway. Don’t know what to think. Been toiling around for an hour and sat in some traffic. Second opinion coming.
 






Can I make a sweeping statement?

OP is likely to find that a 21 year old "bargain" vehicle gets to be incredibly expensive *unless one does one's own repair work.* Of course, not everyone has a place to work, but when I think of the amount of work that is likely to be required on an old truck like this (and I have one myself), and I think of the per hour price of shop labor, I think..."money pit."
It all depends. I have under $300 into my Mounty and have put over 35,000 on it. I'd drive it across the country with zero hesitation.
As for the OP, I'd diagnose it like the guys here have said, and go from there. A head gasket isn't THAT hard, although if you have never done one, can be a little daunting.
 






I pushed her 35 miles up the florida turnpike this morning at about 60-70mph all the way. A little nervous to push much harder. Temp gauge never even went to the middle, had the ac on and no leaks when I got to work. This doesn't seem like the norm for a potential head gasket issue. Is it gonna get worse if it really is the problem? How concerned do I need to be driving it? I have owned a lot of fords in the past (7 mustangs and 1 explorer previously) and never had this problem before.
 






I pushed her 35 miles up the florida turnpike this morning at about 60-70mph all the way. A little nervous to push much harder. Temp gauge never even went to the middle, had the ac on and no leaks when I got to work. This doesn't seem like the norm for a potential head gasket issue. Is it gonna get worse if it really is the problem? How concerned do I need to be driving it? I have owned a lot of fords in the past (7 mustangs and 1 explorer previously) and never had this problem before.

Did you ask your mechanic why he believed you were having a head gasket issue? In general I try to be gentle with my older vehicles (especially my rattling '01 Sport Trac). I'm not saying I'm obsessive about it, but I never beat on them.

Until you find out why your mechanic believes you have a head gasket issue, monitor your temp gauge and keep on eye on your coolant level. Not just in the expansion tank but in the radiator. If I was really worried about this I'd begin b doing this daily. Also check your engine oil to make sure it's not changing color (not starting to look like a chocolate milkshake, which would indicate coolant leaking into the oil). You can also remove the oil filler cap and check to see if the bottom of it has a milky residue, which also indicates moisture in the engine oil, though a vehicle that sits a lot and that's never driven long enough to get its oil up to full operating temp may do this. Another indication of a head gasket leak can be bubbles in the coolant (if you have exhaust leaking into your coolant).
 






He said the hoses were rock hard from pressure and there was steam coming out of the radiator when they ran it with the cap off. I don't know if they did a pressure test nor did he mention any cross contamination of fluids as of yet but I will monitor them. The previous owner was a snowbird so the truck hasn't seen a lot of action the past several years but was originally a northern vehicle which is why I now have a 4x4 in south florida. I am hoping that it may be something else. The truck as a whole is in good shape, other than the passenger seat starting to go on the corner with some wear/tear, the interior is in great shape, the gold paint is original and is still in good shape and I think all the body panels are original as well. It is still going to be a potential money pit for sure but they really are good trucks.
 






I pushed her 35 miles up the florida turnpike this morning at about 60-70mph all the way. A little nervous to push much harder. Temp gauge never even went to the middle, had the ac on and no leaks when I got to work. This doesn't seem like the norm for a potential head gasket issue. Is it gonna get worse if it really is the problem? How concerned do I need to be driving it? I have owned a lot of fords in the past (7 mustangs and 1 explorer previously) and never had this problem before.
NO! Listen up. I owned mine since 2001. I have the exact same truck, I'm very happy with it. The only issues I had were rust related, because of where I am. Some minor things like the blend door too, but it is in my opinion one of the best years for a V6. The trans was changed in 97 to 5spd only to give more issues. You do not want an SOHC. Guess it must have been pretty good for the original owner to hold on to it this long.

I put 60 k trouble free miles and the gauge never touched the center. This engine runs a bit cool. The factory stat is only rated to 190. 190 is just below the thermometer icon. Maybe there is a reason, it puts less stress on the motor. I heard some may run hotter (but normal).

If you want it to move closer to the center install a stant superstat. The factory stats run cool. There are posts going back to 96 on Usenet about people who had this issue with a brand new truck.

I suggest a trans cooler, I installed a large hayden 679 in mine, was able to get it to fit, by bending the tabs in the kit. Change the xfer case fluid with a NON MERCON V transfluid (DEX/MERC). Also do the rear end, be sure to add friction modifier if it is a limited slip.
 






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