1997 Explorer converted to LED brake lights

[barneyrubble318]

I just changed out the break light bulbs for LED. I'm talking the middle bulbs, not the reverse, not the blinkers. Everything works. I checked the turn signals, hazards, everything works just fine. I did not change any of the turn signals that would need the resistors. Now the center console beeps saying to "check tail lamps" and "check break lamps". Every single light works.

Is there a way to fool the system? I hit reset, turned the key off and back on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EC27V1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know the solution to that, but the 98-01 message center modules do not have those functions. I'd like to have the features, but things like LED's obviously have an effect on some circuits.

 

[barneyrubble318]

Are there wire harnesses that have the resistors built in or is splicing the only way? I'm wondering if the computer can't see the lower wattage LEDs vs a regular incandescent bulb. Tomorrow I'll switch the bulbs back in to make sure the problem goes away.

Read another post about the flasher relay. I changed that out years ago, but could a new "LED Flasher relay" fix all of my problems and let me upgrade the blinkers to LED?

The EP27 is what AutoZone says I need, this shows it is "LED Compatible".

https://www.amazon.com/Novita-EP27-Flasher/dp/B000JZ33H8

 

[Desert_AIP]

The security system runs a current through the third brake lamp and it expects the resistance from the incandescent bulbs.
I wired in a series resistor into one of the brake lights to stop it from freaking out.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes there are harnesses made to splice in that have a resistor in them, but they take about the same work and more cost. I did that for two of my turn signals, and I still had some issues with heat damaging the connectors(related to my constant use of flashers).

You can buy resistors very cheaply and solder them in yourself, ending with less wiring to tuck away also.

Flashers made for LED's are supposed to be compatible, but they are not all so. I've tried several flashers, and only the cheap type are sure to not work right. Some people get fortunate and what they use works first time, they're happy, but many people have to try multiple resistors, flashers, bulbs, or connector harnesses, to get all symptoms to reduce.

 

[Desert_AIP]

I replaced my turn signal flasher with an LED compatible model, works perfectly.
The OEM Emergency flasher works fine because it doesn't have the current sense/bulb out detect function.

For the brake lights, I wired in a resistor in parallel. Just one. I spliced it in and mounted it inside the right rear tail light.

I only used one of these resistors, and I soldered in the leads and used heat shrink and wire loom rather than using the quick splices they come with.

60 Ohm Taillight Resistor

 

[CDW6212R]

I replaced my turn signal flasher with an LED compatible model, works perfectly.
The OEM Emergency flasher works fine because it doesn't have the current sense/bulb out detect function.

For the brake lights, I wired in a resistor in parallel. Just one. I spliced it in and mounted it inside the right rear tail light.

I only used one of these resistors, and I soldered in the leads and used heat shrink and wire loom rather than using the quick splices they come with.

60 Ohm Taillight Resistor

I bought the other version of that which had the bulb connection on it. It was more but plug and play, replaced the existing bulb portion that is oftern heat damaged. You can also buy the bulb connection part separately I discovered, if that's all that's needed.

 

[barneyrubble318]

Desert_AIP, does the warning module still work and tell you if the LED break light is out when you have that resistor? If it does, I guess I should do what you did. If it doesn't I found a wire diagram for the warning module in the center console, I could just bypass the break lights there.
My break lights still work, but I found this My 1997 Ford Explorer brake lights do not work. Tested bulbs… where they bypass the module.

I did put my incandescent bulbs back in, retested using the center console and it liked everything, then I put the LEDs back in and now the tail lamp warning is gone (for now) but the break lamp warning came back. So I know it is the LEDs and not something I did when I took my taillights off.

Doesn't the resistor drain the battery just as fast and generate heat like a bulb?

Staying in all this time has given me that itch to keep up on my Explorer again. I've sanded and plasti-dipped my "B" and "C" pillars, they were faded and rusting. I got new aftermarket headlights in. Replaced all 3 wiper arms. Replaced the chrome grill with a black grill. Got new OEM fog lights and LED bulbs in those. Got slightly fatter tires just before the quarantine kicked in. Next up is the black mats on the running boards are wavy and need removed, cleaned and re-glued. Something has been up with the driver's door forever, the power mirrors have never worked since I bought it used in '98 and the "L" lock button doesn't work. I've gotten new buttons and switches but that wasn't the answer to either problem. I ordered some POR to fix some rust in the taillights. You only see it when the rear hatch is open on the drivers side and if the whole tail light on the passenger side is removed. The inside lip of the tailgate has some rust too. Nothing showing.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Desert_AIP]

I'm not getting a warning light (I don't know if that means the warning module is working or not).
I don't have the message center console.
When I first replaced the brake light bulbs with LEDS they worked fine.
But the third brake light (which is already LED) and the security system passes through would flash like a disco strobe when I locked the Explorer and the alarm armed.
So I added the resistor to load that tiny current and fix that.
So There is some battery drain when parked, but it's likely the same as with the standard bulbs.

I removed the rear radio and HVAC controls and the fan unit under the console and the CD changer from the console, so I clipped out the entire wiring harness there. It all still comes down into the big plug, the signals just don't go anywhere. I did have to solder the in and out rear speaker wires to get them back working. The only thing that plug feeds now is the aux power outlet on the passenger side.

I'd have to do calculations on the original incandescent bulb draw vs the LED plus resistor to see if there is a difference.
I went LED because they are brighter and don't burn out. I wasn't worried about current draw.

I don't think the LED compatible flasher relay has the fast flash indicator like the original. The new one is solid state (I think there's a 555 timer chip inside). The OEM unit is analog electronics and relies on the series resistance of the bulbs.

BTW, I replaced the backup lights with LEDs. The original backup lights are 29.5W. The LEDs I used are ~7W.
That circuit is on a 15A fuse. I added some 30W LED auxiliary backup lights installed in the bumper.
The total draw is now 37W per side instead of 29.5, so I just wired them in series with the existing lights.
They work great, don't blow the fuse, and I can now see through the tinted rear window when backing up in the dark.

 

[Gary Crist]

Ohm's law is your friend and the resistor does not
"leak" to ground....
In a word, your ok on the 15A fuse

 

[Mbrooks420]

There will be no parking draw as the parking lights aren’t powered.

 

[barneyrubble318]

I got LED backup lights installed last night. I think I need to clean up some connections. I just wonder if the resistors are worth my time. Right now it is just the warning on the center console. I'll check out what my OEM alarm does with the lights, didn't think about that. I do like that my tail/break and reverse lights are so much brighter now!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I doubt the alarm will be effected.

 

[Desert_AIP]

My aux backup lights.

 

[Mbrooks420]

My aux backup lights.

I used to have an LED bar on top of my hitch. Was wired to a manual switch. GREAT fir tailgaters