1997 v8 runs like garbage

[410Fortune]

Wtf?? Where did this 02 sensor come from even the universal ones will usually plug right in. You are being tested! It is how we handle these tests that define us as men! Lol lol

 

[Explodemylifepls]

They're all factory ford. Probably assembled the harness wrong at the factory or more likely ran out of the right connectors and used a very similar but unnecessarily different connector. The green ones are all the same lol.

 

[C420sailor]

Oh wow.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's messed up. But it is no big problem, take the connectors off and swap the old one onto the new O2 sensor. There is a plastic lock on all of those connectors, carefully find it and pry it out. Then you can carefully release each terminal locking tang, which that plastic lock piece was holding in place. A pick or tiny screw driver is the tool you need there.

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Bend the trans dipstick tube gently towards the firewall and you can pull all the pass side harness between it and the fuel rail, then you can stuff all that stuff behind the dipstick tube and out of the way. The drivers side harness is still connect to a couple sensors in the front accessory drive area, but you can move it aside far enough to get the intake off without disconnecting those. Don't forget to drain the coolant first. I managed to get all the injector plugs unplugged without breaking any of them.

Edit: I have the intake completely off and the 2 forwardmost studs are broken off in the head..

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Took me all day Sunday to get them out but they're out, the intakes back on and I just need another vacuum T fitting and I can hopefully see if it runs tomorrow.

 

[410Fortune]

Fun fun! At least they are out

The front two bolts of the lower intake go into the engine water jacket, which is why they corrode abs brake…. The book calls for thread sealant on those bolts, it’s like liquid Teflon tape. Some others also use anti seize…
Either will work at holding the water back abs keeping corrosion at bay

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Well I turn the key and it start right up, no leaks, only thing I forgot was the egr tube nut was not tight. Took it for a drive and it will shift from 2-3 now without lifting although it still seems to hold 2 out a little long.

Not throwing any codes but the camshaft position sensor code now so I will need a new sensor it looks like.

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you reinstall the cam synchronizer sensor with the proper tool?

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Did you reinstall the cam synchronizer sensor with the proper tool?

No, I was under the impression I just needed the tool to install the actual body not the metal sensor on top, which had a piece of magnet that broke off and was sitting on top of the synchronizer.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the tool is to install the synchronizer when it is R&R'd. The sensor is a no moving parts item, you can swap that easily alone. I'm sorry I worded my question poorly, the sensor is the fragile part that requires no tool to replace.

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Well I ordered a new sensor and hopefully that fixes right. It still has the stumble/choke off idle and runs like it may not have the best idea of where the timing should be. No other codes besides that one atm.

Also my HVAC controls quit working but I switched the lines around on the round ball thing (whatever that is) and it fixed it

 

[C420sailor]

Could’ve a sticking 2-3 accumulator. It happens, an afternoon of work to fix

 

[Explodemylifepls]

No more code for the sensor with a new one on and the throttle response is better. Still idles a little rough and not shifting the best still, may drain the fluid out a cooler line into a bucket on the weekend and look into the accumulator.

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Well it ran good for a short period and now it's running progressively worse to extremely poor. Getting bank 1 rich and lean codes, started with stumble stutter at low throttle and cruising conditions and now will not idle or run with less than 1/2 throttle and under 2500 rpm. Almost ran the tank dry and it was getting worse so changed the filter (which had a bunch of nasty stuff in it) to no avail.

 

[410Fortune]

How can you get rich and lean codes? What are the numbers

Something fishy, when a 5.0 is “fixed” it should start up with the bump of the key and idle smoothly right away, no skips misses or stumbles.

The codes you get usually tell us where to look

 

[Explodemylifepls]

I almost ran it out of fuel and thought the filter may have sucked some crap in it. Watching the o2 sensors with it running it rapidly fluctuates in voltage.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but both were on bank, just a rich code yesterday but rich and lean the day before when I ran the tank dry.

Runs good in closed loop, as soon as it's in open loop it's idling rough and progressively (quickly) gets much worse. Fouled o2 sensor or bad gas??

I will look more this afternoon.

 

[410Fortune]

Suspect iat and cts for closed loop
To open loop issues

Never ever ever ever let the tank get that low it kills the pumps

 

[allmyEXes]

@Explodemylifepls Do you have a later '97 that has the "P" heads? Just curious...

 

[Explodemylifepls]

Yes it does have p heads and external EGR