1998 Ford Explorer XLT Passenger Window does not go up

[niknik01]

I have looked through the forums and found a few posts on this topic. But I still cannot figure out the problem.
My passenger window will go down from either the driver side window button or the passenger side window button.
I have taken off the door panel and tested the window motor. I separated the connector to the motor below the door handle multi-switch unit. This leaves two plug holes on the connector show and you can then get power to the motor. Applying 12v to this connector powers the motor.

Get a 12v booster charger, put a small nail in the large clamp POS and NEG jaws. Turn it on and touch POS and NEG nails into the plug holes. Careful you may get a spark. Depending on which plug you put the POS nail in the window should go up or down.This allows you to open or close the window with no problems. This is a great way to shut the window if the motor is ok and something else is wrong.
My window opens and closes no problem.
I have replaced the passenger window switch but I still have the same problem.

I have checked the wires in both driver and passenger do jams and there does not appear to be a broken one. I even check all the pins in the huge drum connector on the drivers side door.

So I am thinking I may have an grounding issue somewhere. Does the motor use the fact it is riveted to the door as a ground?
Any other ideas what could be wrong?

In another post I found the pinouts for the driver and passenger door. But cannot work out which is the ground.
Here's the link for that
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3029418#post3029418

 

[Rick]

Not sure what you're missing? I see the ground pins in the diagrams you linked to

 

[budwich]

Most likely you have a wiring problem since you can apply power (and ground) directly to the motor and it works in both directions. How are you checking your wiring.... looking for electricity with your eyes requires "super hero capabilities"... get a meter, it works a lot better...

the way to check the wiring is have someone operate the switches at the master (ie. driver side) and use your meter to look at what is happening (or not) at the motor. Then trace back the "offending condition".

 

[gonenuke]

Here is where the grounds go. Pass door pin 7 is the ground look at diagram below connector c615 You may try jumping a wire from the ground of the window switch ,to the ground wire in the foot well to see if you have a break in the wire. Or use a multimeter to test the wires for continuity.

 

[niknik01]

Thanks guys for the diagram and info. Thinking about it, if the window down works I assume there must be a good ground for the window up. Would this be true? or is there a separate ground.

A question about how the switch/motor ground works. When I power the motor with my booster pack, I am putting POS/NEG in the two holes to put window up, and then reversing the nails to bring the window done. Does this mean the return ground is going through the switch or is the motor grounded?
How many of the passenger switch cables go to the driver's door switch? What are the colors? I know the white/yellow goes there and I have continuity on that cable.

 

[gonenuke]

Look at the first pin out diagram I posted. Pin 9 Rf to Lf UP W/Y
Pin 11 Rf to Lf Down T/LB

Maybe jump a wire across from driver switch across to pass switch to see if it works.

 

[bobflood]

Based on the wiring diagrams I look at on-line, the motor is not grounded. Both the up and down switches in the remote doors route back thru the driver's door master control. Based on my experience, I would look for a broken wire in the the driver's door bundle first, then in the pass door bundle. Pass door "UP" wire should be Tan/Lt Blue.

Look here for diagrams:
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
ID: rrcc
PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.

Good luck!

 

[pingj]

I have had this same problem off and on for several years. My problem happens in the master switch. I take it appart, clean it with contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Put it back in and the window works properly from both the master switch and the window switch.
Since all the widows run through the master switch a problem in there can give the indication that the problem is with the local switch or motor.

 

[Cobraguy]

^^^^

A little late to this party, but this is an excellent response to an intermittent problem with windows other than the driver's window. All the grounds come back through the master switch...and each individual window has it's own ground wire to the master. So if you are having a problem with multiple windows, it's unlikely (but not impossible) you have a broken wire in a bundle since you would have to have multiple broken wires. The first place I would look in this scenario is the master switch. Good answer pingj.