1998 XLT build :)

[CDW6212R]

Congrats, that's great for the first step of the WP bolts coming out. That 90% of the job's risk, and the timing cover coming off unhurt is the rest. Take your time and be easy with removing things.

Brake cleaner is great for final cleaning, but I like engine degreaser for heavy grease scrubbing etc, then some carb cleaner with it, brush or tooth brush. Use very good gloves, the 7mil kind work way better for using carb cleaner and spraying a lot.

The cam synch is worth changing, but it's not hard to do later if it's not loud or feels tight now. The timing chain is farily easy when the timing cover is off, holding the crank/flexplate to loosen/tighten the crank bolt is the only tough part.

 

[BruceExploder]

Congrats, that's great for the first step of the WP bolts coming out. That 90% of the job's risk, and the timing cover coming off unhurt is the rest. Take your time and be easy with removing things.

Brake cleaner is great for final cleaning, but I like engine degreaser for heavy grease scrubbing etc, then some carb cleaner with it, brush or tooth brush. Use very good gloves, the 7mil kind work way better for using carb cleaner and spraying a lot.

The cam synch is worth changing, but it's not hard to to later if it's not loud or feels tight now. The timing chain is farily easy when the timing cover is off, holding the crank/flexplate to loosen/tighten the crank bolt is the only tough part.

Thank you yeah I need to get some gloves brake cleaner getting in your busted knuckles really stings .

I've seen people say you can bump the starter with a breaker bar against the frame which sounds kinda risky and I've seen other videos of people just using an impact on it (not sure if I can fit one without taking out the radiator) was weighing out my options as I would have to go buy a impact but already have two breaker bars. Is there a specific way your supposed to hold the crank?

I may just oil the cam sync I had just begun to here the noise before the timing cover began to leak.

 

[CDW6212R]

Buy a tool that holds the flexplate, there is one with two hooks/teeth which grab two teeth and it has a long handle. I have one that I haven't used yet, if there's room to get it at the flexplate, that would be easier and safer than other methods. I think the tool was maybe $20 or so. Imagine the tool looks like your thumb and middle finger stretched out, and your wrist is the handle. It's got a wide opening and it's slim like an odd looking Channel Lock pliers.

 

[BruceExploder]

Buy a tool that holds the flexplate, there is one with two hooks/teeth which grab two teeth and it has a long handle. I have one that I haven't used yet, if there's room to get it at the flexplate, that would be easier and safer than other methods. I think the tool was maybe $20 or so. Imagine the tool looks like your thumb and middle finger stretched out, and your wrist is the handle. It's got a wide opening and it's slim like an odd looking Channel Lock pliers.

Is it this?

 

[CDW6212R]

That looks kind of similar, it should do the same thing. It reaches two teeth a long way apart, and the handle lets you hold it firmly while the crank bolt is removed. It's is a two man job, you just need someone for a couple of minutes each time.

 

[joney]

Have to go see if any auto stores loan steering wheel pullers so I can put these in tomorrow View attachment 167997

Try O'Reilly's if you have them by you. They loaned me a steering wheel puller a couple of years back, here in Wisconsin

 

[BruceExploder]

That looks kind of similar, it should do the same thing. It reaches two teeth a long way apart, and the handle lets you hold it firmly while the crank bolt is removed. It's is a two man job, you just need someone for a couple of minutes each time.

I just drained the oil getting ready to do it. In the haynes manual it says something about trans convertor access door? I was looking under and saw these bolts? Do I have to separate the transmission from the engine?

 

[CDW6212R]

There is a flat cover at the front bottom of the transmission. It's to access the torque converter nuts, small and covers the lower front of the trans. There are two small bolts that go into the transmission from the front side. The cover slips off and then you can get at the teeth.

 

[CDW6212R]

I see that you have the factory oil cooler on that 302. Be sure to install the short radiator hose onto the water pump, before bolting on the WP.

If you put the WP on first, you will have to take it off again, because the hose won't go on with the WP in place.

 

[BruceExploder]

I see that you have the factory oil cooler on that 302. Be sure to install the short radiator hose onto the water pump, before bolting on the WP.

If you put the WP on first, you will have to take it off again, because the hose won't go on with the WP in place.

Will do I remember I couldn't get it off to begin with without taking the water pump off. I want to replace all this stuff so bad but I'm going to do it in chunks. Now my biggest fear looking at it is I'm going to replace all this then have that cooler fail and mix with the oil

 

[BruceExploder]

I was wondering how it was so dirty down here. Timing cover leak mixed with who knows how long an oil leak from the pressure sensor. Something else to replace it's piling up!

 

[CDW6212R]

I feel that, my black one was a mess there too. I replaced the pressure sensor and the oil filter adapter gaskets, and I still had a leak from the front main seal and oil pan. You will be happy to get those done, every step to stopping the leaks helps with the next one, finding it at least.

 

[BruceExploder]

Welp the Ex-lady found some new dude to cheat with and needed me promptly out of the house to move him in so my baby is gone. RIP.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yikes. Gonna miss that truck.

 

[CDW6212R]

Sorry to see that go, I love the green trucks too. My 99 has the cheap paint peeling after 15 years, I think I'll go with a Maaco special, in the OEM Forest green color similar to that.