1999 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, New Fuel Pump, Good Pressure, NO START :(

[willysmd]

Hey Guys,
My wife's new (to her) '99 Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHC has been a bit of a handful lately, here is the story:

Background:
The explorer has only been ours for a few months but always ran well(easy starts, smooth, good MPG). Last week it quit on my wife while she was driving on the highway, no clunks or clicks, just quit. A few weeks before it was starting at high idle for just a second and threw a code. I started checking for easy fixes; I replaced the idle air control valve(took care of the code), the TPS was good, inertia switch was good, it got a spark. Finally, I checked the fuel pressure and it was only 5 PSI, I pulled the fuel filter and when I primed the pump I could hold back the fuel in the rear hose with my thumb. So I had it diagnosed, great!

The Repair:
Last night we took down the tank (which was full) and put in an all new hanger assembly. Bolted everything back up and with a few turns of the key the PSI shot right up to 65 PSI.

The Problem:
I still have a no start situation. I checked the inertia switch last night and it is still good. I think that the problem must be tied in with the fuel pump because I do not think two independent things could fail at the exact same time on a otherwise healthy vehicle. My only thought right now is that I fouled the plugs from all of the cranking over the last week. I have never fouled plugs before on any vehicle so I do not know how probable this is. If it were my jeep I would just go ahead and replace them right now but they are so hard to access that I want to make sure before I do it.

My leading theory is that it is flooded in a bad way. I do not do much work on fuel injected cars so what is the protocol for going on from here? I tried starting with the pedal to the flood to no avail.

Any input is appreciated. I have been through a lot of other threads and have yet to find something for this engine that fits my situation, if I did miss a preexisting thread than I apologize for missing it. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[jremington59]

You did check the pressure at the rail wife a gauge?

Have you pulled any wires and seen if you have spark at the plugs? I don't think you would have fouled the plugs because the pump wasn't giving enough pressure to go through the injectors when it went bad. There are a few plugs that are easy to get to if you wanted to look at them.

 

[koda2000]

you can certainly check a plug or 2, but i'm thinking no spark. try squirting some starting fluid in the throttle body while cranking. if nothing happens then you most likely are not getting a spark. I know it seems unlikely that it's not related to the fuel pump, put if your now seeing 65 psi it shouldn't be a fuel problem.

now a few stupid questions to eliminate the dumb stuff I've been know to do:
did you pull the fuel pump relay when you replaced the pump? did you put it back? did you put some fuel back in the tank after reinstalling it? did you prime the pump a few times before trying to start the engine (key ON/OFF 3 times)? did you install a new fuel filter and is it facing the right way?

if you're not getting spark, as unlikely as it may be, check the connection on the crank position senor. unplug it clean the terminals and plug it in again.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

 

[willysmd]

The 65 PSI was measured at the rail. I did not pull the relay because there was already pretty much no pressure in the line and I thought people only pulled it to crank it and remove pressure. It has fuel, I primed it and put in a new fuel filter. I am going to check the plugs again today to make sure that I still have a spark, I checked them last week. Is it possible for them to be too fouled to run but still show a visible spark?

 

[jremington59]

If you're seeing spark, you'll get some type of firing.

 

[willysmd]

When I get home from work I am going to pull the fuel pump relay and try to clear the flooding. If that does not work I am going to put in some e3 spark plugs.

 

[Spartan]

Donnt use those E3 plugs, they are nothng more than a gimmick. On my 4.0 i always ran autolite, NGK or Motorcraft coppers. I run motorcraft platinums in my 5.0, just smply because its what came in it stock.

 

[willysmd]

I like the lifetime warranty and they have always worked well for me. When I swapped the champion in my weed wacker for an E3, it completely got rid of the blue smoke and made it start much easier. I figured they were a gimmick at first but after using them a few times I am sold.

 

[koda2000]

I doubt you fouled ALL the plugs, if indeed any of them are foulded. do you smell gas when you're cranking it over. i'd stay away from any plugs except Autolite or Motorcraft brand. for some reason these engines don't seem to like other brands of spark plugs and I put E3's in the "magic plug" category.

 

[jremington59]

Before just randomly changing plugs you should go through the link that 2000StreetRod posted. Then you'll know where to look.

 

[willysmd]

Well I pulled plugs on both sides just to make sure I had spark and while I had them out I decided to do a compression test on both sides. The right(passenger) side was fine but I only had 30PSI on the middle left cylinder. To be sure that it was not just one stuck valve or bad rings, I looked at the left rear cylinder and it had less than 10PSI. I am assuming that the timing chain has left the building.
When I was doing my initial diagnosis, I stopped looking after I discovered the fuel pump was shot because I figured "what are the chances of two completely independent but critical parts failing on the same day?". Well, it appears luck had not been on my side.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Related failures?

It is possible that an intermittent functioning fuel pump can cause the timing chain to slip if a guide is broken or a tensioner is weak. A chain is most likely to slip when the engine rapidly decelerates which could happen if fuel pressure suddenly drops.

If you still have some compression in all cylinders on the left bank (did you mean driver's side) it is possible that the chain just slipped and there is no valve damage. See SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair

 

[willysmd]

Ah, it all makes sense now. I was wondering how unlucky I could be to have two independent things break at the same time. Thanks for your input. The tow truck is on its way to take her into the shop. This problem has exceeded my pay grade so I am going to let the pros handle it from here. These new cars with their electronics scare me too much to do a lot of work on them.

 

[2000StreetRod]

repair cost

Be prepared for a rather expensive repair estimate. Replacing the left (driver side cassette) is fairly labor intensive. It can be done with the engine in the vehicle but the cooling system has to be drained, its easier if the radiator is removed, the upper intake manifold has to be removed, the left valve cover, the harmonic balancer and the front timing cover. Once the timing cover is off the mechanic will probably find that the primary chain tensioner has failed. Even if it hasn't and its the old style it should be replaced with the new style. Normally the jackshaft front sprocket must be removed to replace the left cassette assembly. The lower oil pan should be removed to find pieces of the broken cassette. Some may be trapped in the oil pump pickup tube screen. After reassembly both camshafts must be retimed which normally requires special tools. If your mechanic has never successfully replaced the cassettes on a Ford SOHC V6 then find another mechanic. If he says he has ask to see the special tools required to time the camshafts. You don't want a mechanic to learn how to replace and time the camshafts timing components at your expense. It can easily be done incorrectly.