1999 Explorer Axle Shaft Replacement

[Arissett]

So this is basically a part two to my wanting to replace rear end post of my truck. The main issue is my rear pass wheel now wobbles after I spun out due to a blowout and hitting a curb. A lot of people said to inspect the axle shaft itself as opposed to replacing rear end. The issue is the diff fill plug is just rust lmao. The box end of the ratchet doesn’t fit into the spot for it. I’ve hit it with the wire brush but it didn’t really do much. I don’t know how to drill stuff out yet but I’m willing to learn how to obviously to do this. Is there anything I can do before resorting to this. There will be an eventual part 3 to this because I’ve been still trying to tackle issue after issue since this accident happened with the blowout.

 

[Pete Deering]

So this is basically a part two to my wanting to replace rear end post of my truck. The main issue is my rear pass wheel now wobbles after I spun out due to a blowout and hitting a curb. A lot of people said to inspect the axle shaft itself as opposed to replacing rear end. The issue is the diff fill plug is just rust lmao. The box end of the ratchet doesn’t fit into the spot for it. I’ve hit it with the wire brush but it didn’t really do much. I don’t know how to drill stuff out yet but I’m willing to learn how to obviously to do this. Is there anything I can do before resorting to this. There will be an eventual part 3 to this because I’ve been still trying to tackle issue after issue since this accident happened with the blowout.

FYI, there thread sealant on the thread by ford and only 7 or 8 ft/# of torque on the plug. If you heat the plug up with a small tank torch, that might soften the thread sealant. Once you break the seal on the plug, you can remove it by hand. Look for my post about replacement plug.
I wire wheel the plug and Also the recess.
I than welded a square steel bar stock into the plug.
Removed it with socket. The way ford has it facing in the direction of movement, it catch everything.

 

[Josh P]

Sacrifice a cheap extension by force fitting it into the drain plug.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Heat it up, and then tap it with a hammer. Don’t go to town with the hammer, you just wanna shock the threads a little. As short an extension ad you need to clear the ratchet. A breaker bar would be better.

 

[Turdle]

Use a pick to get as much crud as you can out of the square hole in plug, first thing. Brake cleaner to blow the gunk out. Compressed air if you have it.

If you do end up drilling, get a reverse twist ( left handed) drill bit.

 

[drdoom]

I than welded a square steel bar stock into the plug.

LOL my neighbor's GMC is like that... since the '80s!!!

 

[Arissett]

Sacrifice a cheap extension by force fitting it into the drain plug.

Almost time to do this project. I know I’m late but I’m gonna do hammer a cheap extension into it

 

[Josh P]

Almost time to do this project. I know I’m late but I’m gonna do hammer a cheap extension into it

Cheap is the way to go. There's a possibility after the plug is removed it won't want to separate from the extension.

 

[C420sailor]

If it were me…

I’d start doing the inspection (drain the oil, pull the cross pin/clips, pull the shaft, check for true.

It needs to happen anyway.

Inspect where the tube meets the pumpkin to make sure you didn’t dick that joint up.

If the shaft is bent, order a new shaft, bearings, seals. Do the bearing and seal on the other side while you’re at it. Then work on that plug.

If it’s really ****ed, you have three options:

1) get a good mechanic to come over and **** with it
2) pull the whole axle to make it easier to work on, and/or bring the axle to a shop
3) get an aftermarket cover with a fill plug, get the level as close as possible, cross your fingers a lot

 

[Pete Deering]

So this is basically a part two to my wanting to replace rear end post of my truck. The main issue is my rear pass wheel now wobbles after I spun out due to a blowout and hitting a curb. A lot of people said to inspect the axle shaft itself as opposed to replacing rear end. The issue is the diff fill plug is just rust lmao. The box end of the ratchet doesn’t fit into the spot for it. I’ve hit it with the wire brush but it didn’t really do much. I don’t know how to drill stuff out yet but I’m willing to learn how to obviously to do this. Is there anything I can do before resorting to this. There will be an eventual part 3 to this because I’ve been still trying to tackle issue after issue since this accident happened with the blowout.

There only 7 ft/# of torque on the plug.
What holding it, is the thread sealant. If you heat it up that will allow the plug too turn. Use a small pick too clean Out the recess in the plug. Or use hammer and chisel too get it too turn.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You’re going to want at least 20ft lbs on the full/drain plugs. The tightness is how it seals.

 

[C420sailor]

Yeah, I believe they’re pipe thread

I use a light smear of ultra black to help seal. Probably excessive…but ain’t no kill like overkill

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yeah, I believe they’re pipe thread

I use a light smear of ultra black to help seal. Probably excessive…but ain’t no kill like overkill

Definitely NPT pipe thread.