2000 Eddie Bauer restoration, only to become a donor...

[Flashflood]

Here is the bumper I pulled out a hooked over the trim:

View attachment 451457

And thus is the "fatal" damage to the back (reason it was totalled):

View attachment 451458

The corner is pushed in and behind the hatch. Hatch doesn't seal, latch, and the "hatch open" light stays on.

Jesus that's nothing

 

[Fredness]

Crazy, huh?

 

[410Fortune]

I’ve crushed them for less! Hahahaha I’ll do a lot just to get another 5.0 drivetrain.

 

[Flashflood]

I’ve crushed them for less! Hahahaha I’ll do a lot just to get another 5.0 drivetrain.

I wish I could find a 5.0 in that kinda shape up here. Lol

 

[Fredness]

Sparkplug post mortem:

"+" plugs: Fire center electrode to ground strap, tend to keep their gap, platinum "fine wire" tends to burn back.

"-" plugs: Fire ground strap to center electrode, platinum button burns off ground electrode tends to open up as the ground electrode gets more heat and tries to "straighten".

Plugs 1, 3, 5, 6 on Coils 1+2:
1: (1 neg, 6 pos)
2: (3 pos, 5 neg)

Plugs 2, 4, 7, 8 on coils 3+4:
3: (4 neg, 7 pos)
4: (2 pos, 8 neg)

I have 1 OLD cracked coil (3 + 4) with a Ford decal and one newish coil (1 + 2) no-brand aftermarket.

The Ford coil IS hotter than the replacement.

Gaps ranged from .045-.055" on the "+" coil, and .070-.085" on the "-" coil.

P.S. If you are trying to "Read" sparkplug heat ranges on the 5.0L EEC-V, I believe this can ONLY be done on positive coil firing plugs: 2, 3, 6, 7.

 

[Rdc#1958]

Looks like my Mountaineer Monterey (Mercury version of the EB) even same color.

 

[Fredness]

APP104 plug time, indexing to have the ground strap pointing to the center between the intake and exhaust valves (12 O'Clock), closest to the cylinder head, unmasking the flame towards the center of the combustion chamber, and the exhaust valve.
The improved GT40P chamber is subject to plug wetting or other problems, and the APP104 is actually a bit hot stock, but we'll put that to use later when it's running E85 - to see how close we are to needing APP103s.

 

[Fredness]

Soaking the broken bolts of the coil mount in WD-40 and wire brushing didn't help, and I only have access to a propane torch, so it's the heat/quench method.
Propane isn't enough to get the bolt "cherry red", but the paint will turn flat, and any thin spots on the threads might glow.
Remove the heat and blast the bolts with penetrant until it's wet. The first couple seconds of spray will evaporate/smoke, when the area is wet with penetrant, you can stop spraying.
After the 2nd try I was able to "tighten" the bolt remnants to get to clean threads.
When the rains let up, I'll Dremel the Vice-Grip gnarled threads off, and spin the remnants of the bolt out.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Looks like my Mountaineer Monterey (Mercury version of the EB) even same color.

I've been seeing a Mountaineer Monterey locally and wondering just what it is!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I keep the receiver hitch with a 3 way ball in so I get them worse than they get me.

definitely. that and the winch bumper up front make sure the x wont sustain much if all damage.

 

[410Fortune]

What is the part number on those indexing washers? Now I’m all curious about pointing them to 12 o clock! Squeeze every mpg we can

 

[Fredness]

OK, the radiator fan is crap:

Cracked between every blade.

The coil mount was salvaged with the help of a rotary tool:

Need an M5x0.8 thread chaser, as the new bolts don't want to start cleanly.

And horse mats aren't as good as a concrete pad, but they're way better than rolling in the mud:

 

[Fredness]

#7 spark plug is my favorite; easy to get to, and didn't need indexing.

K092 "Super Tuff Plate" J-Mod'ed in a manner befitting a "Truck" transmission.

(Used Sonnax drilling guide, 2000 OEM hole sizes, Baumann/J-Mod recommendations)

 

[Fredness]

Couple issues, documents say J-Mod hole #8 isn't used after 1996, but the K092 and the 2000 OEM Explorer plate HAVE that hole; this is the 3-4 upshift.
Factory is just under .235" (A drill), this was sized to .238" (B drill) as per docs based on the OEM size.

Also the 2000 OEM plate is missing holes #5, for the 2-3 shift, and holes #9, #11 for the 4-3 downshift.

Some of the 2000 OEM holes (#2, #3, #6, #8) were LARGER than the J-Mod recommended size for <300HP or <300HP w/gear change.
These got left alone (#3) or bumped up one # drill (#2, #6, #8).

The Superior "Super Tuff" K092 states it is "Late 2000+", but it doesn't have the bolt holes for the 2-3 Accumulator plate drilled.
The instructions mention "omitting" the 2-3 plate. I'm guessing the extra .030" of plate negates the .125" bolted stiffening plate?
Yikes.

The Baumann/US Shift drill sizes are for cars/early trucks (Pre-1996), NOT later trucks. Compare these to stock and 4 of the 7 holes in the 2000 OEM plate were larger than even the "Level 5" (Max) recommended sizes.

Based on this, I can't recommend the Baumann Kit with our valvebodies as the increased pressure spring and OEM sized holes may produce undesired "harshness".
Even the "Super Tuff" plate would have issues.

Baumann warns of this (in potentially missed notes), and request you contact them for recommendations.

If you DO use the Baumann Kit, please use an OEM car VB/Separator Plate, use in an early truck VB, or follow their specific guidance.

1992-1995 Explorer: RK-AODE
1996-2000 Explorer: RK-AODE-2
2001+ Explorer: TBD - "Oopsies"

[Troubleshooting with BCE, I may have received the wrong instructions/kit ]

 

[Rdc#1958]

I've been seeing a Mountaineer Monterey locally and wondering just what it is!

 

[Rdc#1958]

My best guess that it's Mercurys version of the EB Explorer, I've seen one other since I've owned mine