2000 limited 5.0 wouldn't start after new exhaust installed. It started but here's my new problem.

[Stickman1966]

At issue with my 2000 X limited five point 0 of not starting after the exhaust was installed with four flowmaster catalytic converters. Well with the help of a few of you on this forum and let's just say my ignorance or questioning my intelligence we got it to start. But here's my new problem. For the life of me have no **** clue why F13 fuse keeps blowing on power up. Meaning every time I turn the key to on fuse pops and that fuse is related to L2 sensors camshaft sensor evap canister An evap solenoid. I have checked out all of those all the connections check out the C116 connection I got into through the top side of my rig and through the console And was able to get it along with the O2 sensor connections pulled it apart and it was it was pretty soaked with oil so I was thinking that that's the issue it's got to be the issue. You know how many times I **** have said that exact same sentence? It's gotta be the issue it's gotta be this this time it's gotta be well I cleaned it up with alcohol dried it the **** out put it back together went to turn the key on and the fuse blew. That fuse blowing is the reason why my truck is running like **** I've investigated and researched how to check in between connections in the wiring and I'm in the process of doing that right now so I guess what I'm saying is or asking is 410fortune, Josh P., turtle, allmyexes and the rest of you guys that have helped me out give me a way Let me know of a more efficient way correct way to fix this an easier way to find a short or ground out cause I am done with feeling wires and and **** and like I said all the connections are checking out. Anyway this is my new thread from my old thread so I guess we can say that the 2000X all wheel drive 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust cats installed started But it's it 's not run like ****. Thanks in advance lol obviously I'll thank you at the time when the information that is given to me is successful which I'm going to guess it will be.

 

[Josh P]

I'd unplug things one at a time till the fuse quits blowing. O2 sensors, then the trans solenoids then if it still blows dig into the evap solenoid. I hate tracing wires for a break or short.

 

[C420sailor]

That will cost a lot of fuses

I’d unplug as is mentioned above, while checking for continuity to ground (from the load side of the fuse, not the feed/supply/hot side). Keep unplugging until that ground loop opens.

It’s gotta be a dead short to ground that’s causing it to pop like that.

 

[Stickman1966]

I'd unplug things one at a time till the fuse quits blowing. O2 sensors, then the trans solenoids then if it still blows dig into the evap solenoid. I hate tracing wires for a break or short.

So here's what I'm doing right now to start. Other wire going off of that f13 fuse is LT BLU/ORG. Why can I not just check for continuity between that load side of that fuse and connection of each individual sensor or silenoid it operates which includes all four HO2S'ers, EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, evap canister vent solenoid, electrical pressure control solenoid(WTF IS THAT?), shift solenoids 4 of them, and fuel pump control(Fuel pump works), Among others....... And when it comes to wasting fuses my last trip down at U pull it I raided like 6 rigs I got buckets of 10 amp fuses. Maybe not buckets but a couple good cup fulls. Unfortunately this whole circuit extravaganza really **** with my ADHD I am not going to lie it's tough for me to focus I guess. Listen there's no shame in my game man it's even hard for me to use a voltmeter at times. Obviously any help you guys provide is gonna be masterful..........btw, Ford mech. book suggests Pretty much what Josh P said to do the only difference was he got a voltmeter hooked up to the fuse or dummy light instead of a fuse .

 

[Josh P]

That will cost a lot of fuses

Auto reset breakers are available that fit the fuse spot.

 

[410Fortune]

Fuse 13 in the pjb under hood

 

[410Fortune]

Hego
heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor

Heating element is the suspect

The heaters are usually where the dead short is I would start with the 02 sensors

The connections will look good but the short is inside the oxygen sensor - usually

Good job figuring out where the issue likely is!!!

FYI next time you are at the junkyard grab a few pocket fulls of fuses, at the counter they are either free or couple bucks…
Good way to keep the shop in fuses is I pull all of them before I crush junkers

 

[410Fortune]

That will cost a lot of fuses

I’d unplug as is mentioned above, while checking for continuity to ground (from the load side of the fuse, not the feed/supply/hot side). Keep unplugging until that ground loop opens.

It’s gotta be a dead short to ground that’s causing it to pop like that.

Smart

 

[Cobraguy]

You can buy (or even make) a tool that will light when good...or even buzz. They aren't expensive and worth having in your tool box.

 

[amj441]

An old mechanic showed me his trick with fuses, which he would run a light bulb in the fuse hole and would just start unplugging things until he found the short, then the lightbulb would go out.

 

[Stickman1966]

Hego
heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor

Heating element is the suspect

The heaters are usually where the dead short is I would start with the 02 sensors

The connections will look good but the short is inside the oxygen sensor - usually

Good job figuring out where the issue likely is!!!

FYI next time you are at the junkyard grab a few pocket fulls of fuses, at the counter they are either free or couple bucks…
Good way to keep the shop in fuses is I pull all of them before I crush junkers

I actually did that the last time I was at U-Pull-It + I've burned through all those fuses already LOL. I will say that unfortunately so my ignorance when it comes to wiring diagrams and what not I'm having a hard problem deciphering or defining what some some of the terminology + reading a wiring diagram is I mean it's pretty basic I understand that but it's just articulating I guess where how things run where they run and and what they go off of and all that just having a hard time reading that and plus you know my ADHD like I said which unless at this point I would use that as an excuse just because even if I didn't have it LOL and yes I I have checked all four O2 sensors and they all checked out fine so the short is not coming from there. before that I checked out the EVR and the EGR they checked out the short wasn't coming from there now I'm working my way to the canister vent solenoid + when it comes to the transmission what I checked was the two connectors solenoids whatever the one by the gear shifter dictator chooser whatever the **** that is + the other connection right next to the c115 junction those checked out fine they were not causing the short I swear to God I honestly think that I'm going to check everything on this fuse + everything's going to check out fine and it's still going to continue to blow on me. I'm starting to run out of patience can you tell yet? I keep having like daydreams and fantasies about a standard intake with a four-barrel Holley + literally yanking just pulling every solenoid wire bullshit anything that has the last suffix of noid just trashing it all taking a sledgehammer to the computer...... anyway Stick Man out.

 

[Stickman1966]

You can buy (or even make) a tool that will light when good...or even buzz. They aren't expensive and worth having in your tool box.

okay I understand that it's pretty simple to make a tool that will light or buzz when good.... when what is good, that is the question? how do you make a light or a buzzer hook it up to the fuse inlet on the load side or both sides and when I turn my key on the light supposed to go on no the lights going to ****ing burn out because of the short rite am I looking at this totally ass backwards or what?

 

[Stickman1966]

Smart

this is what I've done to try and find this short the ground wire whatever you want to call it I have unplugged each sensor solenoid electrical mechanism that is sistered off of f13 fuse. I go to starting in the front front upmost front of the truck I find the sensor or solenoid I unplug it I turn my key on the fuse pops so that tells me that it's not that sensor or solenoid. So I move on to the next one after plugging that one back in I unplug it I turn my key on the fuse pops I turn my key off I plugged that sensor that I just unplugged back in and then I move on to the next one so on and so forth I have checked every ************* sensor solenoid or ****ing switch whatever the **** they are I have checked every one including the ho2 sensors that run off that ****ing fuse and that fuse is still popping. now this is the way I see it again correct me if I'm wrong but if you want if I unplug One sensor in that whole circuit and the rest of it are still plugged in I unplugged that one sensor and the fuse still pops when I turn my key on that tells me that it's not that sensor that that sensor is probably good. am I right? because if I'm wrong if I'm looking at this in the wrong way I need somebody to tell me please steer me in the right direction or tell me that I am doing it correctly. like I said I've checked every sensor solenoid anything that is circuited to that fuse and so that tells me that it's in the wiring somewhere does a wire grounding against the frame I don't know and honestly I don't even know where to ****ing begin on that one. I don't know how to efficiently check for a ground check for a grounded wire I should say. Is there a tool out there do I probe wires behind the short in front of I don't know any suggestions would be welcomed and probably used too.

 

[Stickman1966]

That will cost a lot of fuses

I’d unplug as is mentioned above, while checking for continuity to ground (from the load side of the fuse, not the feed/supply/hot side). Keep unplugging until that ground loop opens.

It’s gotta be a dead short to ground that’s causing it to pop like that.

now this is one of the terminologies that I'm having a hard time understanding when you say the ground loop opens what do you mean by that? joe I'm I'm to do this while I'm checking for continuity how do you check for continuity when the sensor is plugged in or do you unplug it and then check for continuity??? oh, wait a minute I think I just answered my own question. So I unplug the sensor before I turn my key on I check for continuity and if I have nothing then that's where the that is the wire the short is in or before that sensor anyway correct? and then I can just continue work back and narrow it down? let me know if I'm on the same page now. I apologize for my ignorance.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Stickman1966 Next time you are at the salvage yard, remove an Explorer taillamp and clip off the reverse light pigtail with (single filament) bulb then install a flat spade type connectors on each lead. You will be able to plug into where the fuse was if it is the big fuses. If it is the little ones, you may have to trim the edges with dykes or a Dremel tool. This will be a handy tool to keep for the future.
@410Fortune Having to do with the heated O2 sensors, is the Indvidual testing with the sensor removed and using the DVOM set on continuity, check to see if the case? of the sensor is showing that it is a closed circuit to the heated power wire?
Hopefully the problem is in one of the sensors or in that section of harness that goes to the O2 sensors and 4R70W wiring for those parts.
Otherwise it would be upstream of the main powertrain control harness that would require partial if not a complete removal and partial unwrapping to find the damage causing the short to ground. Stick, I seem to remember you saying something about a torch or welding causing some harness damage?
Don't give up on the MPFI or EFI. When everything is working correctly, the system is hard to beat especially being OBD2 EEC-V.
As simple as it would be to simplify the fuel and ignition system, it would still take a fair number of different parts.
One that this current problem is figured out, then the low fuel pressure issue can be addressed.

 

[Stickman1966]

@Stickman1966 Next time you are at the salvage yard, remove an Explorer taillamp and clip off the reverse light pigtail with (single filament) bulb then install a flat spade type connector on each lead. You will be able to plug into where the fuse was if it is the big fuses. If it is the little ones, you may have to trim the edges with dykes or a Dremel tool. This will be a handy tool to keep for the future.
@410Fortune Having to do with the heated O2 sensors, is the Indvidual testing with the sensor removed and using the DVOM set on continuity, check to see if the case? of the sensor is showing that it is a closed circuit to the heated power wire?
Hopefully the problem is in one of the sensors or in that section of harness that goes to the O2 sensors and 4R70W wiring for those parts.
Otherwise it would be upstream of the main powertrain control harness that would require partial if not a complete removal and partial unwrapping to find the damage causing the short to ground. Stick, I seem to remember you saying something about a torch or welding causing some harness damage?
Don't give up on the MPFI or EFI. When everything is working correctly, the system is hard to beat especially being OBD2 EEC-V.
As simple as it would be to simplify the fuel and ignition system, it would still take a fair number of different parts.
One that this current problem is figured out, then the low fuel pressure issue can be addressed.

oh I know what you're saying about the system can't be beat because I had this truck running like it was brand new shortly after I purchased it and all that involved was changing out the injectors and I deleted the EGR and the computer recognized it adapted + I was getting 24 25 mi to the gallon I had power I had acceleration I had it all man and then one day started acting up a little bit and here we are. The thought of turning it over to a carbureted motor is nothing more than a pipe dream really the thoughts of simplicity excite me LOL. as far as the the tool you're talking about the light I have a test light to go along with my Vietnam era voltmeter I'll send a picture. I'm going to look a little bit more into the ho2 sensors because I do believe that there's something there that's not rite. there was no damage done by welding that I can see. so I'm not sure where you got the harness damage due to welding probably another rig. anyway I appreciate all you guys continued suggestions and expertise knowledge. this whole wiring electrical it can rattle my brain sometimes but I'm going to keep at it and hopefully I get that fuse to stop popping.

 

[allmyEXes]

Possibly I'm mixing you up with someone else who's wiring recently got damaged. At times on this forum there is a lot of 5.0 stuff going on.
I hope that we can help you get to the bottom of this electrical issue.

 

[Stickman1966]

Possibly I'm mixing you up with someone else who's wiring recently got damaged. At times on this forum there is a lot of 5.0 stuff going on.
I hope that we can help you get to the bottom of this electrical issue.

 

[Stickman1966]

well I found the short. In between c115 and c116. back of motor top of trans somewhere that light blue orange lead was shorting out I just ran a jumper wire from the good side of c115 2 c116. pulled the plugs clean them up reinstall them started it up started right up but it's got a Miss. took it for a drive and it runs a little better a little more throttle a little faster but not even close to up to par. while it was idling I pulled the mass air flow sensor and no change in idle so I'm thinking that's junk the air intake valve sensor the one that's on top of the intake pulled that and the truck died went to start it up and LOL it cranks but no start. Full circle. going to check some codes if able + keep on trucking.
.

 

[410Fortune]

So the mas air sensor has no effect on idle? And the iac (idle air control) also no effect on idle?

Since you fixed the short try cleaning codes and try again!

Nice work so far! She will come back around! I have faith!