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2000 limited 5.0 wouldn't start after new exhaust installed. It started but here's my new problem.

Post number 48 has been selected as best answered.

I don't have my wiring books at my current location but isn't the light blue with orange stripe wire one of the O2 sensor feedback wires?
 



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It’s the heater power wire
 






So the mas air sensor has no effect on idle? And the iac (idle air control) also no effect on idle?

Since you fixed the short try cleaning codes and try again!

Nice work so far! She will come back around! I have faith!
I'm not sure if you were asking me a question on the mass air sensor and the IAC having no effect on idle? or were you telling me that that's fact? because like I said I unplugged the air sensor mass air sensor when it was idling and it had no effect on the idle but when I plugged it back in and then I unplugged the IAC the truck died. I'm in the process of trying to clear the codes right now + going from there.
 






Not shocked it died with no iac
If you look at our throttle bodies the idle air control is the only way any air can enter the intake
Unhook power and it’s spring loaded to closed = choke

I should have read better lol obviously you said it died when you unplugged the iac. Just making sure we are taking about the same part

I’m pretty sure with the mas unplugged the idle should change but honestly it has been so long since I tried that I couldn’t remember what it was supposed to do
I know you will get a check engine light immediately

But if you fix a dead short (yeah!!) it’s time to reset codes and re learn

truck will think it’s new and ready to learn
Trouble codes are the greatest thing
 






Not shocked it died with no iac
If you look at our throttle bodies the idle air control is the only way any air can enter the intake
Unhook power and it’s spring loaded to closed = choke

I should have read better lol obviously you said it died when you unplugged the iac. Just making sure we are taking about the same part

I’m pretty sure with the mas unplugged the idle should change but honestly it has been so long since I tried that I couldn’t remember what it was supposed to do
I know you will get a check engine light immediately

But if you fix a dead short (yeah!!) it’s time to reset codes and re learn

truck will think it’s new and ready to learn
Trouble codes are the greatest thing
well I did do that and I'm I'm getting all those TSS codes + shift solenoid A and b talking about the connectors check the connection and I have checked the connections and all of them are good. now do I have to get into transmission take the pan down drain the fluid and get into that? to I mean fix it? or can I just make sure the connection's good and and where is the connection for the oh God shift solenoid + the TCC far as I know is in the back left quarter panel compartment I don't know let me know man I appreciate you
 






@Stickman1966 Patience is a virtue! This is good progress, tracing wiring problems is annoying!
 






Hold up, hold up. I’m naturally a paranoid kinda person but just humor me for a second.

You mentioned that you identified the short as part of the harness going up and over the rear of the engine/forward trans.

My paranoid mind is asking “why did it short up there, and what else is chafing through?”

IIRC, the transmission wiring (TCC, A/B solenoids) AND the oxygen sensor wires are all in the same harness…guys would melt that harness or pinch it and damage it and lose oxygen sensors and transmission shifting

I don’t have a schematic in front of me, but I’d take a closer look
 






Hold up, hold up. I’m naturally a paranoid kinda person but just humor me for a second.

You mentioned that you identified the short as part of the harness going up and over the rear of the engine/forward trans.

My paranoid mind is asking “why did it short up there, and what else is chafing through?”

IIRC, the transmission wiring (TCC, A/B solenoids) AND the oxygen sensor wires are all in the same harness…guys would melt that harness or pinch it and damage it and lose oxygen sensors and transmission shifting

I don’t have a schematic in front of me, but I’d take a closer look
That's just it taking a closer look is almost impossible I'd have to cut an access hole in the floorboard up a little bit on the passenger side to get a good look or I can take my upper intake off again for the fifth ****ing time so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take for granted that they are compromised and the codes that I've been reading it states open circuit and or short circuit in the TCC wire shift solenoid A and b wiring + vehicle speed sensor wiring so with your comment all that did was bolster my thought process on that whole thing so I believe that you are correct and that those wires are compromised also I'm just going to bypass some jump wires from the PCM down to c116. So wish me luck cuz about this time right now I got nothing to lose.
 






@Stickman1966 There already is an access hole under the console. You remove the console, split the carpet that is under the console down the middle along the top of the tunnel, fold it open and undo four fasteners. Kepp the cutting under what the console will cover. You can get to all kinds of stuff through there.
Maybe someone here can direct Shawn to the thread of Gen II (2) console removal. It's a bit of a pain the first time.
 






@Stickman1966 There already is an access hole under the console. You remove the console, split the carpet that is under the console down the middle along the top of the tunnel, fold it open and undo four fasteners. Kepp the cutting under what the console will cover. You can get to all kinds of stuff through there.
Maybe someone here can direct Shawn to the thread of Gen II (2) console removal. It's a bit of a pain the first time.
Hey man I appreciate the information but I already actually found that out myself. that's where I had checked the connectors for the three ho2 sensors that were right there cuz I couldn't reach him from down below. I was able to grab a hold of that trunk of wire that is the culprit of what I thought was the problem. so I ran jumper wires from the PCM over to c116 motor side of that. on the TCC shift solenoid a shift solenoid b + the vehicle speed sensor did not have a lead going to that connection in that same area. I was not too accurate with what I thought was going to be the issue because after jumping those wires I did a key on vehicle running test + it coded even worse. I swear to God it's like 410 Fortune what he said it sounds like to him that my motor to transmission connector wasn't connected it is but that's what it sounds like to me also because every code is either a open circuit or a short or a ground to the vb ATT. all I know is is I'm not blowing fuses anymore that fuse f13 hasn't popped since I found that short. I don't know exactly where to go from here other than buying out a whole new a whole new wiring harness from the upper intake fuel injectors those sensors down to c116. In all honesty I am probably going to be calling a mechanic tomorrow + admit and accept failure. But you guys have been a godsense let's just say I appreciate every one of you guys I'll keep you updated.
 






That harness is a pain to access
But not impossible
I know you don’t want to remove the intake again but… that’s e best way to get the harness up to where you can work on it

Short of doing that again:
Don’t forget about the white
Bulkhead connector on the pass side of the trans that’s the one that feeds all the shift solenoids. That sucker can be a pita to get fully seated

Also your pcm better be from a 98-01 5.0 and not from an earlier one? Because the 96-97 trans wiring is different at that bulkhead connector

If you still have speed sensor and 02 sensor codes as well as trans solenoid codes then yes that harness needs to be inspected

The floor access panel with the front seats
(At least one seat) Pulled you can get in there pretty good, if you unplug c116 at the trans and the white bulkhead connector you maybe able to pull the harness to where you can see it a bit more?

Sorry for your troubles! If we were closer I could be your Mobil Mechanic
 






That harness is a pain to access
But not impossible
I know you don’t want to remove the intake again but… that’s e best way to get the harness up to where you can work on it

Short of doing that again:
Don’t forget about the white
Bulkhead connector on the pass side of the trans that’s the one that feeds all the shift solenoids. That sucker can be a pita to get fully seated

Also your pcm better be from a 98-01 5.0 and not from an earlier one? Because the 96-97 trans wiring is different at that bulkhead connector

If you still have speed sensor and 02 sensor codes as well as trans solenoid codes then yes that harness needs to be inspected

The floor access panel with the front seats
(At least one seat) Pulled you can get in there pretty good, if you unplug c116 at the trans and the white bulkhead connector you maybe able to pull the harness to where you can see it a bit more?

Sorry for your troubles! If we were closer I could be your Mobil Mechanic
Man I'm telling you bro you don't know how many times I thought about eva lived closer to Northern Idaho LOL. I'm going to check out that connector on the passenger side the white one you mentioned I was for some reason unaware of that + I believe the computer the PCM is out of a 99 mountaineer so I think we're good there yeah I just had a massive letdown yesterday but I'm getting ready to go at it right now again so thanks for your words of wisdom + your attention to detail and pointing out the lesser known ****. appreciate you brother I'll keep you up to snuff on how it goes.
 






@Stickman1966 I've had the upper plenum on and off 4 times this year just in the past 6 months. I have a 5th time schedule in June to fix the C-N-P connectors. That reminds me to figure out where to get a new soldering tip for the new soldering iron.
 






@Stickman1966 I've had the upper plenum on and off 4 times this year just in the past 6 months. I have a 5th time schedule in June to fix the C-N-P connectors. That reminds me to figure out where to get a new soldering tip for the new soldering iron.
Yeah I bet you have I've had it off I think four times in the last month but it gets easier every time I will say that so that's what I'm going to do and I'm in the process of trying to locate that white box connection on the passenger side of the tranny that 410 Fortune talked about and I'm not having any luck but the search goes on.......
 






Right rear of case right above corner of trans pan
 






Right rear of case right above corner of trans pan
when you say right rear I'm taking that as passenger side rear, correct? cuz that's how everything is basically directed and that is from the driver's point of view looking out the windshield. You know like right Bank left Bank all that bullshit. thanks I'll check it out I don't know why that Ford mechanic book + pretty much all the other literature I've read always claim to have it on the driver side but Fortune said the same thing you did so I'm going to go with what you guys are saying.
 






That harness is a pain to access
But not impossible
I know you don’t want to remove the intake again but… that’s e best way to get the harness up to where you can work on it

Short of doing that again:
Don’t forget about the white
Bulkhead connector on the pass side of the trans that’s the one that feeds all the shift solenoids. That sucker can be a pita to get fully seated

Also your pcm better be from a 98-01 5.0 and not from an earlier one? Because the 96-97 trans wiring is different at that bulkhead connector

If you still have speed sensor and 02 sensor codes as well as trans solenoid codes then yes that harness needs to be inspected

The floor access panel with the front seats
(At least one seat) Pulled you can get in there pretty good, if you unplug c116 at the trans and the white bulkhead connector you maybe able to pull the harness to where you can see it a bit more?

Sorry for your troubles! If we were closer I could be your Mobil Mechanic
well I found the transmission and motor connector and it was exactly where you said it was right side passenger side rear right above pan yeah here's a picture of it let me ask you fortune? you think this might be my problem LOL?

PXL_20250507_225658032.jpg
 






well I found the transmission and motor connector and it was exactly where you said it was right side passenger side rear right above pan yeah here's a picture of it let me ask you fortune? you think this might be my problem LOL?

View attachment 464313
here's another picture of the inside of that connection there's enough oil in this mother ****er to service my truck I think **** me if this isn't my problem y if when I get this cleaned up and reconnected and my truck is still running like a POS that I'm ****ing giving up. I guarantee you I just found it

PXL_20250507_230158264.jpg
 






here's another picture of the inside of that connection there's enough oil in this mother ****er to service my truck I think **** me if this isn't my problem y if when I get this cleaned up and reconnected and my truck is still running like a POS that I'm ****ing giving up. I guarantee you I just found it

View attachment 464314
You guys aren't going to believe this **** I'm still trying to wrap my head around it......... I got that transmission connector all cleaned up looking like brand new dried out got it reconnected reconnected out of the other connectors that weren't connected + sat down in the driver seat knowing that I had just found the catalyst of my problems on my truck. I'm talking about 6 months ago no I'm sorry 9 months ago when my truck first started acting up again that connection was everything. so I knew that my truck my rig was going to be back on the road in a matter of seconds I turned it over and it started right up I went to give it some throttle and I noticed smoke coming from that access hole in the floorboard that I had made and then I saw what appeared to be a glowing light... .... Yeah, My truck was on fire. I got out looked at the engine bay and the flames were coming up in between the motor transmission firewall area lol, firewall, anyway I was hollering my roommate's name because she knew where a fire extinguisher was she was not answering or coming outside so I had the hose hooked up to my pressure washer I unscrewed the hose + turn the water on and by this time the flames were pretty much starting to engulf the fire protection layer of material underneath the hood so I started dousing my engine bay in that area with water + I was able to put the fire out... I thought...... well flames started up again + also the old piece of outdoor carpet that I had underneath the truck to lay on was on fire also. So I proceeded to spray some more water on my or in that area trying to keep my ****ing sanity and my wits about me but just not believing that this was happening right now. I I just found out the problem with my rig and this is happening. so with my truck smoking + water dripping off everywhere I just sat down and shook my head in disbelief. I was pretty much mindless for a good 10-15 minutes and then I started thinking or wondering what caused this fire and I said to myself I caused this fire I caused this fire because of all the ****ing bullshit that I did to fix the problem that wasn't the problem and in the process I cut some corners I settled one of the things that I settled or the corner that I cut was when I replaced that section of a fuel hose with rubber fuel hose instead of that hard line was that the reason for the fire I don't think so. because I got underneath the truck after a while + pretty much saw the start of it and it was at the first ho2 sensor. that's when it hit me those are heated circuits those motherfuckers haven't been working at all until I cleaned out and fixed that connection then when I started my truck it was working heating up + he did something up it shouldn't have and who knows what that could have been some residual fuel residual ****ing starting fluid I don't know some bullshit ****ing old plastic those flames started immediately I know that......... So here's what I'm going to do, I am yanking every wire from the mass air Sensor to the c116 connection that whole harness system is coming out and I'm going to go down to U-Pull-It and I'm going to yank one out of a rig down there and I'm going to replace it with that I'm going to get my EGR hooked up correctly because I cut that down tube out and blocked off the the two open ends one at the manifold and one at the EGR bottom because I couldn't find that down tube I am going to get a correct fuel rail one that's not welded keep in mind that weld is still holding and it's not the reason for the fire I'm going to get new injectors I probably don't need them but I'm going to get new ones anyway and I'm going to install everything myself because believe me, I could do it blindfolded now......... I hope you enjoyed my story + I will keep you guys up to snuff on what's going on and thanks again. stick man out.
 



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Holy **** balls!

So glad you got the fire out

Make sure harness comes from 98-01 5.0 with only one fuel line!!!!

Some trans fluid in that white plug is normal but yours looks excessive

Keep at it you can do this! The more the truck tests you now the more years it will be trouble free once this is all done
 






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