2000 Mountaineer - Whine on acceleration - Quiet as a mouse on deceler | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 Mountaineer - Whine on acceleration - Quiet as a mouse on deceler

Your door lock issue is unrelated.

The battery certainly isn’t 18 years old. They almost always have a date sticker on them, or branded into them.

I’d verify fuel pressure, as that’d be my first suspect. Might be worth banging on the bottom of the tank with a large mallet and then re-trying to start it. You could also spray a small amount of starting fluid in the intake while trying starting it. Don’t run it on starting fluid, or use it repeatedly.
Now I can quit worrying about the door lock.
The positive cable attachment to the battery is corroded and will be replaced but prevents me from taking the plastic cover off to look at the battery's date of purchase.
Starting fluid, good idea and I understand not to run it but to see if it will run. I'll be back
 



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If your cable is corroded your battery voltage might be irrelevant.
 






Yep clean that cable terminal ^^
 






Yep clean that cable terminal ^^

Ditto, yes, clean the battery terminals. Those can corrode enough to reduce the current reaching the starter, or even stop it eventually.

The fuel pressure test kit is not something you should need often. I wouldn't buy one, just rent the one from Autozone for free. They keep many tools for people to rent, you pay them up front and when it's brought back, all of the money is returned.

Checking the fuel pressure isn't hard. Be sure the needed adapter has a good o-ring inside of it, that seals onto the schrader valve of the fuel rail. Before connecting the tool/adapter to the fuel rail(schrader valve), carefully release some of the pressure stored inside. That's about having a decent large rag which can be discarded after having gas on it, and gently pushing the tiny pin down, inside the schrader valve. It's identical to a tire valve, same size too. The tool/adapter screws onto the schrader valve, snug not tight. Then place the gauge where you can see it, and turn the ignition key on, check the gauge.
 






Your door lock issue is unrelated.

The battery certainly isn’t 18 years old. They almost always have a date sticker on them, or branded into them.

I’d verify fuel pressure, as that’d be my first suspect. Might be worth banging on the bottom of the tank with a large mallet and then re-trying to start it. You could also spray a small amount of starting fluid in the intake while trying starting it. Don’t run it on starting fluid, or use it repeatedly.
Now I can quit worrying about the door lock.
The positive cable attachment to the battery is corroded and will be replaced but prevents me from taking the plastic cover off to look at the battery's date of purchase.
Starting fluid, good idea and I understand not to run it but to see if it will run. I'll be back
The cheapest $50 OBD2 Zurich reader HF has, will work to find any active or stored codes. Auto stores sell them too.

The $95 HF Zurich reader will do more like, ABS data, freeze frame MIL(CEL), live data, and battery/alt/starter diagnose. If you do indeed have a code, this one will tell you when it was triggered.

Obviously, the higher the cost (HF has more), the more they do, but the cheapest will give you somewhere to start looking if there is a code triggered.

I mentioned disconnecting the battery for 15 mins, as it will drain the memory from the modules, and might clear an active code. It might start, it might not.

Well, when the winds die down...Have a helper turn the key to "On", as you have your head near the pump in the wheel well. Make sure this helper doesn't start the car, (if it starts), and drive off with head in the wheel well. (had to say it lol) Should help you hear it this way. Some are loud whiny units, others are quiet.
Ditto, yes, clean the battery terminals. Those can corrode enough to reduce the current reaching the starter, or even stop it eventually.

The fuel pressure test kit is not something you should need often. I wouldn't buy one, just rent the one from Autozone for free. They keep many tools for people to rent, you pay them up front and when it's brought back, all of the money is returned.

Checking the fuel pressure isn't hard. Be sure the needed adapter has a good o-ring inside of it, that seals onto the schrader valve of the fuel rail. Before connecting the tool/adapter to the fuel rail(schrader valve), carefully release some of the pressure stored inside. That's about having a decent large rag which can be discarded after having gas on it, and gently pushing the tiny pin down, inside the schrader valve. It's identical to a tire valve, same size too. The tool/adapter screws onto the schrader valve, snug not tight. Then place the gauge where you can see it, and turn the ignition key on, check the gauge.
 






Rather than take a chance going down the road with my head caught in the wheel well I concluded taking the suggestion to remove the gas cap and listen there. I did the listening but did not hear the click of the pump so testing the fuel pressure is next. I'm going to town today to pick up a fuel pressure tester and we will see what we will see.
 






Ditto, yes, clean the battery terminals. Those can corrode enough to reduce the current reaching the starter, or even stop it eventually.

The fuel pressure test kit is not something you should need often. I wouldn't buy one, just rent the one from Autozone for free. They keep many tools for people to rent, you pay them up front and when it's brought back, all of the money is returned.

Checking the fuel pressure isn't hard. Be sure the needed adapter has a good o-ring inside of it, that seals onto the schrader valve of the fuel rail. Before connecting the tool/adapter to the fuel rail(schrader valve), carefully release some of the pressure stored inside. That's about having a decent large rag which can be discarded after having gas on it, and gently pushing the tiny pin down, inside the schrader valve. It's identical to a tire valve, same size too. The tool/adapter screws onto the schrader valve, snug not tight. Then place the gauge where you can see it, and turn the ignition key on, check the gauge.
Thanks for the procedure. My wife has an appt with the optomotrist and we need a few groceries so I'll pick up a fuel pressure tester and hopefully check it this afternoon or tomorrow.
 






Thanks for the procedure. My wife has an appt with the optomotrist and we need a few groceries so I'll pick up a fuel pressure tester and hopefully check it this afternoon or tomorrow.
I bought a fuel pressure tester, I'm too far away from Auto Zone to borrow it and return it, I'm better off to suck it up and buy one. I also bought a OBD2 diagnostic tool. I'm finally ready to test and winter just got it the way. A series of storms is hitting the West Coast right now and I will have to wait for a sunny day, coming soon.
 






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