2000 Mountaineer - Whine on acceleration - Quiet as a mouse on deceler

[pjfsail]

I found the switch. I put my index finger in the depression and pushed but it must be already pushed down. You can see the little red indicator in the window. If I see the red indicator does this mean the switch is activated?
The fuel tank is full.
It cranks good. But, in the 1/2 circle where the tachometer is in the dash there is a little picture of a battery, outlined in red, maybe this means the charge is low. I have my charger on my boat, I'll go get it and get my volt meter and see what I see. I'll be back!

 

[CDW6212R]

The battery light is on whenever the engine is off, or the voltage is too high or low, running.

If the engine is cranking well enough, it sounds like time to test the fuel pressure. Everything under the hood is in place, no connectors are off, like the coil packs or plug wires?

 

[pjfsail]

I don't have the proper equipment to test fuel pressure, just never had to do it before now. In another post one of the members (God bless you all for your input) showed a photo of a unit that Harbor Freight has for sale that does just that. I'm over 15 miles from town, don't go that often just don't need to. But, if this is what I need I am on to it. Don, what would you recommend?

 

[gmanpaint]

You can try a couple things for free or cheap first.

Turn the ignition key to on (engine off) and listen for the fuel pump to prime for 3 seconds. This will tell you it is engaging and has power.

Next, find the Schrader valve on the intake. It is on the fuel rail between intakes This is what you use to test fuel pressure. You can see if you have any pressure at all, by simply pushing on the center core. Cover it with a rag, so it doesn't spew onto your face.

Now you can use a cheap $2 air gauge to get a rough reading. The small round kind with a glass face. It will get fuel inside it, but that's alright. Just make sure to prime the pump again, before hand.

These steps will at least tell you if your pump is working and if you have pressure.

You need spark, air, and fuel for it to run. Eliminate one thing at a time.

 

[CDW6212R]

Most all parts stores rent lots of tools, including the fuel pressure test kit. It's free after you return the tool quickly.

Be sure everything else is as it should be. You already said it was running fine before. So if nothing has been disturbed affecting the fuel or timing, I'd check the fuel pressure. If that turns out to be okay, then you're looking for something missed, bad connection at a coil pack, bad plugs etc. It shouldn't be much else, these are predictable engine systems.

 

[pjfsail]

The battery light is on whenever the engine is off, or the voltage is too high or low, running.

If the engine is cranking well enough, it sounds like time to test the fuel pressure. Everything under the hood is in place, no connectors are off, like the coil packs or plug wires?

The battery was down to 12.4 volts when I put the charger on. I'll check it this morning.
No, Nothing under the hood was disturbed. The only thing I did was to jack the truck up about 8" at the rear. I placed a carpenter's level on the passenger running board, when it was level I quit jacking. There was no critical moment where the truck fell off the jack. Everything went as smooth as a sail on a warm summer day. When I let the truck down with the jack it too was smooth. When I went to start it after about 10 days up on jack stands it would turn over but would not start.

Here is something to add to the problem that may help answer what is wrong. When I use the key fob to lock and unlock the doors. I can never get the driver's door to unlock. At first I panicked because I thought I had locked myself out. When I used the fob to unlock the doors, ALL the doors will unlock except the drivers door. In order to open the driver's door I have to open the rear door and reach around to open the driver's door. The driver's door has a code entry on it, I know the code, does this provide information that will help solve the no start?

 

[pjfsail]

You can try a couple things for free or cheap first.

Turn the ignition key to on (engine off) and listen for the fuel pump to prime for 3 seconds. This will tell you it is engaging and has power.

Next, find the Schrader valve on the intake. It is on the fuel rail between intakes This is what you use to test fuel pressure. You can see if you have any pressure at all, by simply pushing on the center core. Cover it with a rag, so it doesn't spew onto your face.

Now you can use a cheap $2 air gauge to get a rough reading. The small round kind with a glass face. It will get fuel inside it, but that's alright. Just make sure to prime the pump again, before hand.

These steps will at least tell you if your pump is working and if you have pressure.

You need spark, air, and fuel for it to run. Eliminate one thing at a time.

I will work on this in the morning. I sure appreciate you sticking with me on this. I know we will get to the bottom of the problem.

 

[pjfsail]

Most all parts stores rent lots of tools, including the fuel pressure test kit. It's free after you return the tool quickly.

Be sure everything else is as it should be. You already said it was running fine before. So if nothing has been disturbed affecting the fuel or timing, I'd check the fuel pressure. If that turns out to be okay, then you're looking for something missed, bad connection at a coil pack, bad plugs etc. It shouldn't be much else, these are predictable engine systems.

Yes, it was running fine before I jacked it up to drain and refill the rear differential and the transfer case. That is all I did, nothing more. I didn't even have the hood open, there was no need to. I jacked it up until it was level, about 8", drained and refilled the rear differential and the transfer case, let it back down and it would turn over but would not start.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, this is weird. Disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes and try it again.

You might have a cel and might have a burned out bulb too. Do you have a code reader?

 

[Turdle]

you still have not answered this:

do you hear the fuel pump prime for the first 2 seconds after turning key to on?

 

[pjfsail]

Yeah, this is weird. Disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes and try it again.

You might have a cel and might have a burned out bulb too. Do you have a code reader?

Sorry, it has been over 60 mile an hour winds. When this happens our internet connection goes down. We are up an running for now. I had my charger on the battery but it never charged over 12.8 volts. The battery is probably as old as the truck. The battery will not charge and has lost it's 13.4 charge somehow. How weird for this to happen just as I let the truck down off it's stands. We are going to town on Thursday and I'll pick up a battery while we are in shopping. No, I don't have a code reader. I am new to modern vehicles. I have been driving pre 1989 trucks and suv for years. It was time for me to get modern and look what happens. My 1987 4Runner has 300,000 miles and not a squeak from either differential. But, it's old and it's tired and time to slow it down and get a more modern suv. I have owned it for 20 years, I love this old truck. I bought the Mountaineer to take it's place and BY GOLLY IT WILL! I love my Mountaineer just as much, just need to get it running.

 

[pjfsail]

you still have not answered this:

do you hear the fuel pump prime for the first 2 seconds after turning key to on?

My shop is semi outdoors, kinda hard to explain but I live in the High Desert (over 3000') it rains less then 10" a year so things don't need to be as protected as you would in other parts of the US. One bad thing is when the wind blows. We have been experiencing over 60 mile an hour winds for the past 3 days. When you are outside you can't hear each other talk much less hear a fuel pump running for 2 seconds. But, I am determined,, don't give up on me if I don't respond right away. Believe me, I will try every thing you all are suggesting sometimes with a question. Like I said, don't give up on me if I don't respond right away. And, don't be afraid to correct me, it is because I don't understand.

 

[pjfsail]

Sorry, it has been over 60 mile an hour winds. When this happens our internet connection goes down. We are up an running for now. I had my charger on the battery but it never charged over 12.8 volts. The battery is probably as old as the truck. The battery will not charge and has lost it's 13.4 charge somehow. How weird for this to happen just as I let the truck down off it's stands. We are going to town on Thursday and I'll pick up a battery while we are in shopping. No, I don't have a code reader. I am new to modern vehicles. I have been driving pre 1989 trucks and suv for years. It was time for me to get modern and look what happens. My 1987 4Runner has 300,000 miles and not a squeak from either differential. But, it's old and it's tired and time to slow it down and get a more modern suv. I have owned it for 20 years, I love this old truck. I bought the Mountaineer to take it's place and BY GOLLY IT WILL! I love my Mountaineer just as much, just need to get it running.

I don't have a code reader. I looked at Harbor Freight. HF has quite a few how would you know which one to buy?

 

[gmanpaint]

The cheapest $50 OBD2 Zurich reader HF has, will work to find any active or stored codes. Auto stores sell them too.

The $95 HF Zurich reader will do more like, ABS data, freeze frame MIL(CEL), live data, and battery/alt/starter diagnose. If you do indeed have a code, this one will tell you when it was triggered.

Obviously, the higher the cost (HF has more), the more they do, but the cheapest will give you somewhere to start looking if there is a code triggered.

I mentioned disconnecting the battery for 15 mins, as it will drain the memory from the modules, and might clear an active code. It might start, it might not.

Well, when the winds die down...Have a helper turn the key to "On", as you have your head near the pump in the wheel well. Make sure this helper doesn't start the car, (if it starts), and drive off with head in the wheel well. (had to say it lol) Should help you hear it this way. Some are loud whiny units, others are quiet.

 

[CDW6212R]

The battery should only test in the 12.3 or so range normally, after the engine has been off for a while, not from charging. Your battery sound fine, the alternator usually pushes 14 volts normally, but the battery never will hold that level when off. Only if the battery tests under 12.0 should you worry, then it's getting weak, around 10 and it might be bad.

Suspect the fuel pump given everything else seeming fine, but test pressure before just guessing at it. If the pump makes noise, then you are still left wondering what the pressure is really. The engine light comes on to tell you there is some error detected, but it's helpful to see that when the engine is running. With it not, then you wonder if there might be a code, so you hunt an OBDII tester and check it.

How far is the nearest parts store, to get a fuel pressure tester, or an OBDII scanner?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Your door lock issue is unrelated.

The battery certainly isn’t 18 years old. They almost always have a date sticker on them, or branded into them.

I’d verify fuel pressure, as that’d be my first suspect. Might be worth banging on the bottom of the tank with a large mallet and then re-trying to start it. You could also spray a small amount of starting fluid in the intake while trying starting it. Don’t run it on starting fluid, or use it repeatedly.

 

[donalds]

A good battery will read 12.6 v when healthy and the surface charge is removed
Forscan hands down the best scanner and cheap
Open the gas cap to hear the pump or jumper the relay to know easy

To reset

 

[pjfsail]

The battery should only test in the 12.3 or so range normally, after the engine has been off for a while, not from charging. Your battery sound fine, the alternator usually pushes 14 volts normally, but the battery never will hold that level when off. Only if the battery tests under 12.0 should you worry, then it's getting weak, around 10 and it might be bad.

Suspect the fuel pump given everything else seeming fine, but test pressure before just guessing at it. If the pump makes noise, then you are still left wondering what the pressure is really. The engine light comes on to tell you there is some error detected, but it's helpful to see that when the engine is running. With it not, then you wonder if there might be a code, so you hunt an OBDII tester and check it.

How far is the nearest parts store, to get a fuel pressure tester, or an OBDII scanner?

Yucca Valley is the closest town, has Auto Zone, small Napa, Walmart, Harbor Freight. 45 miles to large city with shopping malls etc. I do most of my shopping on line, Amazon and other parts stores, and Harbor Freight for tools. Shipping is mostly free and can get to me in record time and cheaper.
Harbor Freight has a fuel pressure tester, I'll get one Friday. I'll have to look to who I can get the tester from. Maybe I can have one by Friday too. Thanks for the super information. Just checked and our local Harbor Freight has four OBDll scanners, one for 50.00, one that also reads live data for close to 100.00, another that read ABS for 150, another ABS/SRS fix assist for 210. If the one for 50 will do the job I can pick it up, in stock I checked.

 

[pjfsail]

Battery's I had no idea. I'm so glad you don't mine spending the time to teach me the things I don't know or don't understand. I am very thankful.

 

[pjfsail]

A good battery will read 12.6 v when healthy and the surface charge is removed
Forscan hands down the best scanner and cheap
Open the gas cap to hear the pump or jumper the relay to know easy

To reset

Good battery: It reads 12.8
I ordered a Forscan scanner from Amazon $30.00 and free shipping. It will be here by Monday for me to pick up.
Listening to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the key is turned on. I asked my wife to help me listen. She, like me, is hard of hearing. **** happens when you get old! So, I turn the key on and ask her if she heard anything. She says, "yes, I hear the wind howling". So, we cancelled that event. Now, when I tell her to put her ear (which is a REALLY good idea) down to the gas filler and listen for the click of the pump, she will know that I have lost my friggin mind. But, I'll take the risk of being committed and I will ask her to do it. I'll be back!