2000 Sport no crank

[Jhowa2020]

Anyone ever have this problem. Lights and everything are fine. Tried a brand new battery. Took the starter to have it tested. But still nothing when I turn the key - no clicks or zings or grinds.
Weird things have been happening- like my radio lost all power then came right back on.

 

[koda2000]

Anyone ever have this problem. Lights and everything are fine. Tried a brand new battery. Took the starter to have it tested. But still nothing when I turn the key - no clicks or zings or grinds.
Weird things have been happening- like my radio lost all power then came right back on.

How are your battery cables? Lumpy? Corroded?

 

[Jhowa2020]

How are your battery cables? Lumpy? Corroded?

Everything seems clean and tight. I’m getting full battery volts at the starter post

 

[koda2000]

Everything seems clean and tight. I’m getting full battery volts at the starter post

Have you checked your mega fuse on the rear of the power distribution box (PDB)? Also make sure its contacts/ends are clean. Find your starter relay in the PDB and swap it for another similar less important relay in the PDB (if they look the same, number of pins wise, they are the same). Make sure the relay's contacts are not corroded.

Also try moving the shifter to "N" (neutral) and try starting the engine.

The fact that your radio cut out and then came back makes me think bad electrical connection somewhere. I think when the radio cut out, so did everything else.

 

[410Fortune]

Sounds like:
bad ground wire from battery to engine,frame or fender (check them all)
Bad ignition switch, mounted on the steering column behind the key tumbler
Bad starter solenoid on mounted on the fender (for no crank)

I suspect battery ground first

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like:
bad ground wire from battery to engine,frame or fender (check them all)
Bad ignition switch, mounted on the steering column behind the key tumbler
Bad starter solenoid on mounted on the fender (for no crank)

I suspect battery ground first

Isn't the ignition switch mounted on the bottom of the steering column over the brake pedal area? That's where all of mine are. The key-lock is connected to a cast aluminum rod that moves in/out to set the ignition switch to the ON/OFF/ACC and START positions when the key is turned.

OP if you have a good set of jumper cables, try connecting one end to the battery negative terminal and other end to a good solid metal point on the engine block and see if that makes any difference.

 

[410Fortune]

maybe! In my head they exist on the steering column, its a big white plastic dealio with large gauge power wires coming out of it, definitely has a metal rod that moves the positions....in my 88 its on the steering column top ish....but that was before column shift, on the Gen II I think it moved down slightly on the column, on my 97 F350 its in a similar spot but not exactly the same. However they are all near the key switch and activated with a metal rod....if that helps. When you drop your steering column its obvious where the switch is located!!

I deal with too many Fords these days to be precise
The ignition switch can cause power distribution issues like you describe, but not nearly as common as bad/corroded battery wires/connections

The jumper cable is a GOOD IDEA

 

[Jhowa2020]

Sorry it’s taken so long to report back. Just now had a chance to get under the car. I put the tested starter back on and tried it. Amazingly enough the starter spun but didn’t engage the flywheel which meant it wouldn’t cut off until I pulled the battery cable off. So now I’m trying to acquire a starter to try.

 

[Jhowa2020]

Turns out it was 100% the starter. Why it tested correctly three separate times at the car part store I have no idea. But it was a $60 starter from Rock auto that was barely a year old. So yeah don’t buy cheap starters from the internet.

 

[410Fortune]

Thank you for coming back and posting the fix!!