2000 X AWD 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust/cats installed

[Stickman1966]

Crank sensor common reason for no spark
It is not a crank position sensor you are confusing everyone especially the oarts guy when you call it a crankshaft position sensor
CPS
Because the cps is the camshaft position sensor

Again
There is a
crankshaft sensor
And then there is a
Camshaft position sensor

You cannot just guess at these things if you want help

You completely
Blew past the thread about how to diagnose a no start that turdle Posted

No spark:
Does the check engine light illuminate when you first turn the key?
This is incredibly important question when looking for no spark

well I guess a crankshaft position sensor does actually exist....... weird.
unless whoever wrote that process of elimination procedure is mistaken. who was that that wrote that? curious. but like I said my prior reply check engine light does not illuminate while cranking the motor. I am working off your process of elimination list right now as we speak I'd be honored if you got back to me on the check engine light illumination or lacked thereof while cranking the motor.

Crank sensor common reason for no spark
It is not a crank position sensor you are confusing everyone especially the oarts guy when you call it a crankshaft position sensor
CPS
Because the cps is the camshaft position sensor

Again
There is a
crankshaft sensor
And then there is a
Camshaft position sensor

You cannot just guess at these things if you want help

You completely
Blew past the thread about how to diagnose a no start that turdle Posted

No spark:
Does the check engine light illuminate when you first turn the key?
This is incredibly important question when looking for no spark

That's weird cuz says right here that a cranked shaft position sensor does exist. that's strange...... unless whoever wrote the process of elimination process procedure was wrong. who wrote that anyway? anyway but like I said before my prior reply the check engine light does not eliminate while cranking the engine so I am going to continue to work off your procedure of process of elimination and I already crossed out the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CKS) because I already replaced that along with the CAMSHAFT POSITIONING SENSOR (CPS). CURIOUS TO HEAR YOUR RESPONSE TO THE NEGATIVE ILLUMINATION OF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WHILE CRANKING THE MOTOR. ACTUALLY I'D BE HONORED IF I GOT A REPLY. Thanks.

 

[Josh P]

The check engine light going out while cranking means the ecm is getting a signal while cranking which is a good thing.

 

[410Fortune]

lol

When you went to the parts counter and asked the dude for a crank position sensor they sold you a camshaft position sensor correct? Or do I have it backwards? It happens
CPS is cam sensor

“Crank sensor” would have gotten you a different box in your hands
That’s what I was getting at

I did not write the above post (big red letters) no… another member did. I cannot go around the internet fixing other people’s posts … I did not write that article.. you keep calling it mine?


I call it a crank sensor to avoid confusion with the CPS

Crank sensor mounted on crankshaft
Cam sensor mounted on camshaft

Unless it’s a 7.3 turbo diesel then the cam sensor is mounted on the crankshaft
Clear as mudd


I’ve also learned correct terminology over the years … so just tying to teach is all

For
Clarity and in an effort to help you
Does the check engine light illuminate and then go off?
Or does it never come on?

Next step, for me, would be to check for battery power with the key on at the red wire at the mass airflow sensor
Yes or no?

You sure are excitable now use that passion to get this thing fixed

Sorry if I got upset… it’s been a rough week
Now please, Quit yelling at us, especially Josh he’s real sensitive

 

[Stickman1966]

well when it comes to the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor I've replaced both. and when it comes to the terminology and all of that I'm not even going to get into that I'm just going to say okay thank you for correcting me. I don't understand where you think I blew by a post because I read the post in question + basically it's the process of elimination Dad turtle posted. I haven't had a chance to go back to my vehicle today but I am going to be doing that here shortly and the first thing I'm going to do is check to see if the check engine light comes on when I'm cranking it because evidently that is important. understand if you will, I am no certified mechanic I am a diyer at best, very mechanically inclined + I can adapt to most situations when it comes to wrenching on rigs. this one has me feeling pretty much like a idiot in which I'm not. The thing that has me most confused or questioning it would be this whole problem with my Explorer never existed never replicated my truck never had a problem starting ever until I have the flowmaster cats and exhaust installed by a muffler specialist who did it for no cost to me. the reason why he did it at no cost was because my buddy has a shop and in his shop he has a car lift well I had asked if I could use his car lift because I built his paint booth inside his shop and I've known him for a while and he said he was going to be using it that weekend but he'll make a call and get back to me so he got back to me and said give a hold of this guy he'll hook you up so I did now with that said I have a hard time going back to this guy and ask him what the **** because knowing me if I had paid this man to install the exhaust I would be at his shop saying what the ****? So that's what I have to say to that + thank you again to you and to anybody else who has come up with solutions that is the 100% sole reason why I became a member of this form. if there's one thing I can do is take direction and also retain information JOY that's what I'm doing and I will keep members interested informed thanks.

Well then, I'm even more confused after seeing the attachment I attached. I guess that's what you do with attachments you attach? who knows anymore really I mean the next thing you're going to hear is crankshaft positioning sensor doesn't know the position of the crankshaft but it's just called that because, well, it sounds cool? lol... I'm just ball busting you bro. I was just as surprised as you were because I took you for word. but carrying on.........

Good job getting converters replaced not easy on a 5.0 and there are 4 of them… yikes

Battery was disconnected during any welding?

Check fuel pressure could easily be a fuse or intertia switch

Cam sumynchronizer is used for timing not for initial start and crank, that would be the crank sensor.
A bad crank sensor will result in no spark

FYI the 5.0 should start even with no exhaust hooked up… Loud, but it’ll start

Messing with oxygen sensors battery should actually be disconnected
These are heated sensors and the circuits carry a lot of power any short can blow fuses or worse

2000 has a security key, the theft light should go off when cranking the starter

Air fuel spark … the basics I'm replying to this post because I want to explain why I pretty much ignored this post and the possibilities and the help that you were offering. and yes I pretty much did because it was at this point when A narrowed it down to the crankshaft sensor and I was set on that and I wasn't going to budge because I thought for sure that was the problem it all made sense but I was wrong couldn't even I couldn't be more wrong + I do want to say this to you fortune I appreciate you I understand it's been a rough week for you it's been a really rough month for me but people handle **** differently I guess but I hope there's no animosity I was just trying to be humorous to break up the monotony and I was a little surprised that it was labeled a or crankshaft positioning sensor. and yes I capitalize most a lot of my words in that one reply the main reason why I capitalized him them were for them to stand out not because I was yelling + I just want to just State my overall enjoyment and happiness I'm being a part of this forum and also recollecting back when I went to pick up my Explorer from the muffler shop the guy that installed it told me that a it wouldn't start and he thought it might been out of gas b that he cleaned the battery terminals for me which were not that dirty so thinking about that I was kind of wondering if while cleaning the battery terminals if he shorted something out so I am in the process of checking every fuse with a voltmeter and to be honest with you I had to Google what you meant when you said check it at both ends LOL I know now and I wasn't referring to you riding those other process of elimination procedures more so that you are the one that pointed them out so that explains that so anyway I'm still trying and I will still let everybody know tomorrow if I'm still ****ed or not thanks again everybody even the two a-holes that were calling me an a-hole LOL

 

[Josh P]

Do you have a can of starter fluid? If so see if it runs on that.

 

[410Fortune]

What?

So the crank sensor does indeed exist.
As soon as the starter turns the crank it tells the computer “we are turning” and the ignition fires up, creating spark.

The crank sensor is not attached to any gear, no rotating parts, it is simply a Hall effect sensor reading the teeth on the crank balancer, detecting rotation

This is why I’d say it has no idea what position the crank is in, because it only detects that it has started to turn


The cam synchronizer and position sensor, on the other hand, is connected to a gear on the camshaft. the synchronizer and the cam sensor are set with the engine at top dead center. This sensor must know the exact tooth the camshaft is on so it can time the spark to the combustion cycle. This is why it is an actual camshaft position sensor. It knows when cylinder 1 is at top dead center and the computer uses its position to time the ignition spark.


So if you understand how they are installed and how they function you may be able to wrap your head around why I (me myself him) say one is an actual position sensor and one is not

I can find people online who think the earth is flat and Bigfoot exists, actually I can find some of those people in my own family! Hahaha but that does not mean Bigfoot is real or his name is actually Bigfoot
Nowhere in the technical manuals dose name of the crank sensor is the word “position” used… at least not by or by me. Sure rockauto and oreillys might call it a position sensor, on the forum in some posts by other members sure, or even older posts from when I was younger … these are just layman’s terms… but you won’t see ME call it a crank position sensor because now you will get it confused with the CPS. Make sense now? I hope so

So there ya go getting technical with it


Getting answers from you about what it happening with the truck is how we help fix things. If you don’t answer the questions asked directly, you cannot get more feedback and your just adding fluff to the forum so far getting clear answers has been a lot like pulling teeth, painful

I’m used to getting balls busted no problem slides right off my back… my trucks are all running

 

[allmyEXes]

You would need to have a helper turn the engine over (crank it at the key) for you to be able to see if the light is flashing on the inline spark plug tester. (pictured below).

Then attach a noid light tester to an accessible fuel injector connector. (pictured below). Again, have someone crank it over.
If the lights flash during these two tests, then those two things are working. Guys, correct me if I'm wrong but you need about 40 to 42
pounds of fuel pressure at the rail.

Do these 3 tests and get back to us.

 

[410Fortune]

2000 should have 64 psi it is returnless fuel

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune Yep! My brain is stuck on return fuel. I'm glad that you caught that. I don't want to mis-inform.

 

[410Fortune]

It happens to the best of us i mean there is so much to know and keep track of awe do this daily
We have helped thousands of people
Not every single post has to be perfect

In the shop I have may sayings
One of them I use all the time is

Two heads and always better than one

 

[allmyEXes]

I have been on many different Ford forums and this one by far as far as EEC-V 5.0 goes is the most active and informative.
I have learned a lot from all of y'all about 5.0s and 4.0 SOHCs. I did have a head start though on the 5.0s if you take into account
that I have been working on 289s and 302s for 47 years.

 

[Josh P]

I have been on many different Ford forums and this one by far as far as EEC-V 5.0 goes is the most active and informative.
I have learned a lot from all of y'all about 5.0s and 4.0 SOHCs. I did have a head start though on the 5.0s if you take into account
that I have been working on 289s and 302s for 47 years.

I thought you were 46 years old.

 

[Stickman1966]

Do you have a can of starter fluid? If so see if it runs on that.

It's not getting a spark bro. I've narrowed it down to the security system my key the long story but it's not the key that trips the alarm and **** it's my spare key

 

[Josh P]

It's not getting a spark bro. I've narrowed it down to the security system my key the long story but it's not the key that trips the alarm and **** it's my spare key

Ok, my bad.

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P

I thought you were 46 years old.

lol. Try the other way around, almost. Wife asked, " Why are you looking at stuff about Medicare?".

 

[allmyEXes]

@Stickman1966 @Josh P @Mbrooks420 Ok. I missed the part about no spark. Please don't quote me on this but I'm thinking that the PATS (security) interrupt, disables the starter and maybe the injectors. Maybe Josh (P) or one of you other guys can expand on this. I was "late to the party" on this Explorer problem and trying to understand what is going on.
*I'm still learning, and I don't know everything.*

 

[eddiehudson]

The PATS light should blink slowly with no key in the ignition. When you turn the key to the ON position the light should go off. If the light blinks rapidly you have a PATS problem.

 

[Stickman1966]

I thought you were 46 years old.

You need too start from the beginning.
1. Check air filter
2. Check for spark
3. Check for fuel. Spray some carb cleaner in throttle body. Does it fire?
4. Check the live data on your scanner. What are you missing.
Look again under the car, where the exhaust system area, you work on. What's not connected?
5. Did you disconnect a engine ground?

Hey Pete thanks for getting back to me man appreciate you I'm a little late getting back to you though but I will tell you this I have no spark I did check underneath the rig where my muffler guy installed the cats and exhaust lines and there was no signs of disconnection of anything he get a good job on it. But he did tell me that he claimed my battery terminals and they weren't that bad to begin with I'm kind of thinking that he while cleaning the terminals shorted the terminals together or something and and blew something I don't know tear that or my security system and my key aren't getting along. Play again I appreciate you

The check engine light going out while cranking means the ecm is getting a signal while cranking which is a good thing.

What?

So the crank sensor does indeed exist.
As soon as the starter turns the crank it tells the computer “we are turning” and the ignition fires up, creating spark.

The crank sensor is not attached to any gear, no rotating parts, it is simply a Hall effect sensor reading the teeth on the crank balancer, detecting rotation

This is why I’d say it has no idea what position the crank is in, because it only detects that it has started to turn


The cam synchronizer and position sensor, on the other hand, is connected to a gear on the camshaft. the synchronizer and the cam sensor are set with the engine at top dead center. This sensor must know the exact tooth the camshaft is on so it can time the spark to the combustion cycle. This is why it is an actual camshaft position sensor. It knows when cylinder 1 is at top dead center and the computer uses its position to time the ignition spark.


So if you understand how they are installed and how they function you may be able to wrap your head around why I (me myself him) say one is an actual position sensor and one is not

I can find people online who think the earth is flat and Bigfoot exists, actually I can find some of those people in my own family! Hahaha but that does not mean Bigfoot is real or his name is actually Bigfoot
Nowhere in the technical manuals dose name of the crank sensor is the word “position” used… at least not by or by me. Sure rockauto and oreillys might call it a position sensor, on the forum in some posts by other members sure, or even older posts from when I was younger … these are just layman’s terms… but you won’t see ME call it a crank position sensor because now you will get it confused with the CPS. Make sense now? I hope so

So there ya go getting technical with it


Getting answers from you about what it happening with the truck is how we help fix things. If you don’t answer the questions asked directly, you cannot get more feedback and your just adding fluff to the forum so far getting clear answers has been a lot like pulling teeth, painful

I’m used to getting balls busted no problem slides right off my back… my trucks are all running

That was hidden below the belt bro. Your trucks are all running? Actually it's pretty funny. I two let **** roll up my back all my trucks aren't running but with your help hopefully it is soon. Next time I go into O'reilly's I'm gonna ask him for a crankshaft positioning sensor and when he tells me okay it'll be this much or whatever I'm gonna look him in the eye and say, you idiot there's no such thing as a Craigshaft positioning sensor LOL but seriously I appreciate you fortune and you'll be hearing from me again call me on a whole nother topic. let me ask you this fortune, what do you call that container in your house that heats up the water? I don't have any patience to wait for your answer and I'm just gonna say you better not call the hot water heater LOL because why in the **** would anybody wanna eat hot water.

The PATS light should blink slowly with no key in the ignition. When you turn the key to the ON position the light should go off. If the light blinks rapidly you have a PATS problem.

okay I'm going to say it loud so everybody can hear because I need everybody to I need all I can to help me get this fixed but anyway the engine warning or check engine light is on when I turn the key on goes off when I crank the motor comes back on when I let off the key. The theft light blinks slowly and then when I turn the truck over it stays illuminated and then when I let off the key it blinks slowly. The story on the key is I'll give you the short version I lost my original key fob and key that went to that rig somewhere between Reno and Klamath Falls Oregon on my way back from the street vibrations on my Harley-Davidson. I called a locksmith one that was recommended to me he showed up at my house and in his van he hooked me up gave me a key gave me a fob and gave me a spare key now the spare key doesn't open the driver side door the good key I guess we'll call it opens up the driver side door well A had dropped my keys unfortunately near my ex-wife's house and don't ask me what I was doing there but my ex-wife 's wife yeah you heard me right she's a lesbian now found my keys and has them to this day and drive us by every once in awhile my house and sets off the alarm by pressing the panic button on the key fob yep good times right so anyway fast forward to now the only key I have is the spare key doesn't open the driver side door and I have to get in through the back hatch I've been using that key for a good month or so couple months when my truck was running and no problems no problems starting my truck I'm just going to say this all of the the problem of no spark the problem of no starting that big problem never happened before and it started happening right after I had the exhaust installed the guys told me he also cleaned my terminals on my battery and that's when he told me that he thinks it's out of gas he can't get it to start well I put gas in it and still haven't got it to start and here we are today the truck is back at my house still no spark and I'm just at a loss on a post script I'll tell you the muffler King guy Gary is his name he installed it for free didn't charge me because he owed a buddy of mine a favor long story anyway so here I am with the brand new exhaust system four cats flocats which I paid for but I can't go to this guy who installed my exhaust for free and *****ing him now can I because believe me if I paid for my exhaust to get in and I'm having this problem my truck would be in his shop right now until it's fixed it's just a pain In the ass.

 

[amj441]

Show of hands. Am I the only one having trouble following all of this?

Theres a reason why I havent responded to this post. Its hard to read and follow.

 

[Josh P]

A couple of lesbians makes the situation more interesting.