2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read) | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read)

I'm game for that, however, the visual difference between a 3.73 and a 3.55 diff rotation is nearly impossible to determine by hand!

There was no axel in the truck to check.

I would love to have this be a mistake, but i SERIOUSLY doubt that the door is wrong, the VIN is the same on the chassis.
 



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all AWD V8 Explorers came stock with a 3.73 gear ratio.

check the tag on the axle maybe the door was replaced at some point in it's life. The info on the door would be wrong, in this case.

or do what jtsmith said!

actually, just do what jtsmith mentioned! This will provide you with 100% accurate information! not stickers or tags, which are very possibly inaccurate.

No, sir, they did not all come with 3.73 axles. If you'll kindly check page 184 of the 2000 model year owner's manual, it's clear that they were offered with either a 3.55 or a 3.73 gear ratio for both the 2wd and the 4x4. In 97, the only gear ratio with the V-8 was a 3.73, but that changed in the 2000 model year.

As for Burnsl's problem, I think you discovered the hard way that you should always verify the axle tags... Major bummer. You won't really know if the VC was cooked until you get the new one in. However, as you tested before, check to see if it creeps downhill when in park, just like you did before. If it still creeps, odds are it'll be OK. The difference between the 3.55 and 3.73 probably isn't enough that it cooked the VC.

Also, another quick way to check to see if you had the same gear ratios front and rear would be to park the vehicle on a flat, level piece of ground. Mark the bottom of both the front and rear driveshafts with chalk or a paint stick. Drive straight ahead 20 or 30 feet. Both marks should be pretty close to parallel. If they're off, they're different gear ratios.

-Joe
 






I'm game for that, however, the visual difference between a 3.73 and a 3.55 diff rotation is nearly impossible to determine by hand!

There was no axel in the truck to check.

I would love to have this be a mistake, but i SERIOUSLY doubt that the door is wrong, the VIN is the same on the chassis.

The truck has no axle in the back? :scratch: huh? Wow, that's some crazy drive system you got there!! :D

The axle tag on the rear axle is the oneyou want to match it up with. (Assuming it's the stock rear end). It's possible for the axle tag code on the rear to not match the door sticker. I'd trust the tag over the door any day.

-Joe
 






I'd trust the tag over the door any day.

And I'd count teeth over trust an axle tag any day.

When was the last time you changed your rear axle fluid? If you haven't, go ahead and get 3 quarts of 85w140 synth blend and some RTV and pop that rear cover off. Count the teeth, then you'll know for SURE.
 






No, sir, they did not all come with 3.73 axles. If you'll kindly check page 184 of the 2000 model year owner's manual, it's clear that they were offered with either a 3.55 or a 3.73 gear ratio for both the 2wd and the 4x4. In 97, the only gear ratio with the V-8 was a 3.73, but that changed in the 2000 model year.

ahh.. thanks for the correction! I thought they were all the same, but of course I shoulda known better than that :D
 






You guys are getting all Black Helicopter and Tin Foil hat here...

I'll look at the back axel, i didnt think of that.

Where can i find cross reference numbers to check what i need?
 






You guys are getting all Black Helicopter and Tin Foil hat here...

I'll look at the back axel, i didnt think of that.

Where can i find cross reference numbers to check what i need?

You should find a metal tag on one of the rear axle cover bolts, my tag, with 3.73 gears and limited slip had a big "3L73" stamped into it. My door tag reads "D4". I regeared my truck, and now it has 4.56 gears. I didn't change my door tag! :p:

But like I said before, to get it 100% right, pop off the rear cover and count the teeth. I mark the 1st tooth with a paint pen so I know where to stop. Also, take out the filler plug on the front of the diff before you pop the rear cover.
 






I'm not sure how accurate these numbers are, because I found them through google, but the math does work. Ratio = Ring teeth / pinion teeth

3.55: Ring = 32, Pinion = 9
3.73: Ring = 41, Pinion = 11
4.11: Ring = 37, Pinion = 9
4.56: Ring = 41, Pinion = 9
 






I got under the truck last night and found no tag on teh rear driveshaft, but I noted what was on the metal tags on the transfer case and the rear diff.

Transfer Case:

C2903 4404-07
238405 FB7A-EB


Rear Diff:

S630A
55 88 0001


So, now what? i dont see anything that screams 3.55 OR any other ratio.
 












You know, youre absolutely right!
It was halfway under the bolt!

so its a 3.55!!!

Hooraaaaay -DOH...


crap.
 






So, do we have a consensus here? All in agreement?
The door label, driveline tags and (attempted use of a 3.73 Diff) all point to what the problem is.

YES?!
 






You know, youre absolutely right!
It was halfway under the bolt!

so its a 3.55!!!

Hooraaaaay -DOH...


crap.

LOL!! :bsnicker:

So, do we have a consensus here? All in agreement?
The door, Tag and use of a 3.73 Diff all point to what the problem is.

YES?!

Agreed wholeheartedly. I think it's a pretty safe bet at this point. The tag and door sticker both say it's a 3.55 and we know that the 3.73 you installed isn't playing nice with it, so, I think you're on track here.

I would probably pop the cover on principle just to change the lube on principle... and while I was in there, I'd probably count the teeth just to make sure nobody swapped in a 4.10 set when nobody was looking LOL!!

Now, that being said, here's another alternative: What's the difference in cost between replacing the front diff (again) versus re-gearing the rear end with 3.73s? I suspect a ring and pinion swap will run about $500 or less installed at any decent driveline shop... Then it would be a simple matter to add a programmer to modify the gear ratio, or have a dealership reprogram the ECU to reflect the updated gearing (probably an hour's worth of labor for a knowledgable tech)... Might be less time and hassle than replacing the front diff (again) :banghead:

Just thinking outside the box a bit, that's all...

-Joe
 












Now, that being said, here's another alternative: What's the difference in cost between replacing the front diff (again) versus re-gearing the rear end with 3.73s?


Haha... while we're thinking outside the box, why not go the cheaper route and just get a junkyard 3.73 rear end? I bet you can get one for about $300-$400 and bolt that sucker right in. Try www.car-part.com, or just go to the yard you bought the front diffy from.

3.73 gears will give more torque and acceleration at the wheels.
 












yeah.. i was gonna say, getting a rear diff to match the front would be the easiest-cheapet soltion prbly.

Cheapest is just going back to the yard and exchanging the front diff for a 3.55 unit! Front diffs on the 97+ trucks can be had for $100-$200 dollars, and he hopefully? can return the one he bought.
 






Cheapest is just going back to the yard and exchanging the front diff for a 3.55 unit! Front diffs on the 97+ trucks can be had for $100-$200 dollars, and he hopefully? can return the one he bought.

I believe he did state he'd have to pay a 20% restocking fee, because that particular yard did not have any 3.55's.... but maybe they do now?

I agree with hunting down a 3.73 rear axle. Shouldn't be more than a couple hundred $$
 






OKAY!!


Its FIXED!


3.55 ratio, new Driveshafts and seals.

does anyone want a really clean, re-sealed, "run free-wheeled for 200 miles to be sure its good", front differential?!

Gimme what I got in it, and you got it!
 



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Okay, i need to sell my newly re-sealed, and nicely cleaned 3.73 front differential.

Why cant I post this in the for sale section?!
 






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