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2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read)
- Thread starter burnsl
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storlied
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Just for the hell of it... go check the cv joint in the front prop shaft please..
Inspect the rubber boot inside... Check for any odd play.
Take it off completely and simulate the movements that joint would make.. does it feel smooth?
I really hope it's not a ratio difference.. or you're going to hate life... but lets check a few things before you go to that dark place..
Inspect the rubber boot inside... Check for any odd play.
Take it off completely and simulate the movements that joint would make.. does it feel smooth?
I really hope it's not a ratio difference.. or you're going to hate life... but lets check a few things before you go to that dark place..
burnsl
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When and how would it become apparent that a ratio difference was the problem?
We are all remembering here that this trhead started off with this truck having been run for a while with no front driveshaft, yes?
Couls a transfer case problem be the issue?
Could I have a bad viscous coupling?
What would that sound/ act like?
We are all remembering here that this trhead started off with this truck having been run for a while with no front driveshaft, yes?
Couls a transfer case problem be the issue?
Could I have a bad viscous coupling?
What would that sound/ act like?
storlied
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Check the front output for any play.
Lets figure this out.. after you've checked that.. lift the front of your truck (lifting both tires off the ground) .. and of course taking the proper safety measures to make sure it's stable and going to stay in place... and spin the wheels.. listen for any noise.
Lets figure this out.. after you've checked that.. lift the front of your truck (lifting both tires off the ground) .. and of course taking the proper safety measures to make sure it's stable and going to stay in place... and spin the wheels.. listen for any noise.
burnsl
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I know there should be no problems. Yet there is something.. 
I have no noice in the front diff.
Remember I drove this for a day with this replacemetn diff in the truck from the junkyard for 24 hours, CV axels installed, and no issues.
Once I installed ties the front sdiff to the transfer case, it started to so this crap once i got up to a particular speed.
THe diff got hot enough (in 5 miles) to burn my hand just slightly.
The joint that connects to the transfer case on the shaft got a little hot too.
I have no noice in the front diff.
Remember I drove this for a day with this replacemetn diff in the truck from the junkyard for 24 hours, CV axels installed, and no issues.
Once I installed ties the front sdiff to the transfer case, it started to so this crap once i got up to a particular speed.
THe diff got hot enough (in 5 miles) to burn my hand just slightly.
The joint that connects to the transfer case on the shaft got a little hot too.
storlied
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It has to be different ratio's then.. and if you're 100% sure it's not.. then it's the tcase..
Honestly though, the tcase isn't very complicated at all inside.. Although .. this might be your chance to upgrade to the 4406BW manual shift tcase! 4x4 with low range.
Honestly though, the tcase isn't very complicated at all inside.. Although .. this might be your chance to upgrade to the 4406BW manual shift tcase! 4x4 with low range.
burnsl
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Hmmm...
How did I know this would go from possibly spending money on a replacement part (AGAIN) to that PLUS an upgrade?!
How does this always happen?!
How can i ensure that i have the right Ratio diff by looking? (Assuming that the one i have was marked wrong at the junkyard)
How did I know this would go from possibly spending money on a replacement part (AGAIN) to that PLUS an upgrade?!
How does this always happen?!
How can i ensure that i have the right Ratio diff by looking? (Assuming that the one i have was marked wrong at the junkyard)
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Slowly turn the drive shaft by hand and count how many times it rotates for 1 rotation of the front wheel-
under 4 rotations will be 3.73 : 1
over 4 will be a 4.10 :1
V8BoatBuilder
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I think it could be something inside the diff rubbing, mine have never got that hot.
What speed where you cruising at?
burnsl
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35 mph.
Why would it only go wonky when i tied it to the transfer case?
It's fine when disconnected.
It free-wheels fine with the driveshaft off the front diff.
Why would it only go wonky when i tied it to the transfer case?
It's fine when disconnected.
It free-wheels fine with the driveshaft off the front diff.
gavin
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the front ring and pinion gears are "free spinning" when the driveshaft is not installed.
With the driveshaft installed, the front tires would be trying to spin at a higher (or lower) rate than the rear tires (if the gear ration do not match front to rear), which would cause MASSIVE binding in the t-case, and very very very quickly killing the viscous coupling.
gijoecam
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That's one way... But you would need to make sure both tires make one complete revolution. Mark the bottom of both tires and then spin the driveshaft. You may need to hold one tire if it moves farther than the other. When both tires have come around one full turn, that's where you'll take your note on how many revs the shaft made.
What did the axle tag on the diff say it was?
-Joe
storlied
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gijoecam, I think you quoted the wrong quote.. (Burnsl, I think he was correcting the instructions given by jtsmith, try it out)
There is a couple ways to see if the coupling is dead.. my crappy way of testing is to just floor it n see if the front spins up. (I don't suggest this if different gear ratio's could be a possibility though)
You need to figure out your gearing situation before you drive again, and before you start testing the VC.
There is a couple ways to see if the coupling is dead.. my crappy way of testing is to just floor it n see if the front spins up. (I don't suggest this if different gear ratio's could be a possibility though)
You need to figure out your gearing situation before you drive again, and before you start testing the VC.
gijoecam
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Not sure what happened there... a chunk of the text I entered was missing too... Corrected now (I think)... well, not exactly correcting JTSmith, just adding a couple notes to help out...
burnsl
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Okay,
So I know that ultimately i'm responsible for what i do and how i get my information.
I say that right off the top here becuase i have not done myself a service by not checking the facts that i was given on occasion.
Now it's gottem me in a bind. (literally and figuratively).
I DONT have a 3.73 ratio DIFF!!!!!!
After discovering my sticker on my door jamb, and the AXEL number there is "45".
This crosses to a 3.55 ratio !!!!!!
I was told that my car a 2000 AWD XLT V8 has a 3.73 ratio.
I was told to be SURE to get that.
ARGH!!!!
I need to know if I can test my VC.
I need to somehow RETURN this diff and pay a 25% restock fee becuase they dont have qa 3.55 ratio diff!, (even though I have cleaned, flushed, filled and resealed it!!!)
ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What year models are compatible? I am having a hard time finding a 3.55 diff for a 2000, i know 1999 is, what other years?
This means i have to pull my CV axels for a 3RD TIME, pull remove and replace the diff, with a new set of seals and flush/fill it AGAIN, and now possible replace/repair my TC!
I cant "argh" enough.
Suggesstions on how to make this better?
So I know that ultimately i'm responsible for what i do and how i get my information.
I say that right off the top here becuase i have not done myself a service by not checking the facts that i was given on occasion.
Now it's gottem me in a bind. (literally and figuratively).
I DONT have a 3.73 ratio DIFF!!!!!!
After discovering my sticker on my door jamb, and the AXEL number there is "45".
This crosses to a 3.55 ratio !!!!!!
I was told that my car a 2000 AWD XLT V8 has a 3.73 ratio.
I was told to be SURE to get that.
ARGH!!!!
I need to know if I can test my VC.
I need to somehow RETURN this diff and pay a 25% restock fee becuase they dont have qa 3.55 ratio diff!, (even though I have cleaned, flushed, filled and resealed it!!!)
ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What year models are compatible? I am having a hard time finding a 3.55 diff for a 2000, i know 1999 is, what other years?
This means i have to pull my CV axels for a 3RD TIME, pull remove and replace the diff, with a new set of seals and flush/fill it AGAIN, and now possible replace/repair my TC!
I cant "argh" enough.
Suggesstions on how to make this better?
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gavin
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all AWD V8 Explorers came stock with a 3.73 gear ratio.
check the tag on the axle maybe the door was replaced at some point in it's life. The info on the door would be wrong, in this case.
or do what jtsmith said!
actually, just do what jtsmith mentioned! This will provide you with 100% accurate information! not stickers or tags, which are very possibly inaccurate.
check the tag on the axle maybe the door was replaced at some point in it's life. The info on the door would be wrong, in this case.
or do what jtsmith said!
actually, just do what jtsmith mentioned! This will provide you with 100% accurate information! not stickers or tags, which are very possibly inaccurate.
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